IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

Need help with wheel offsets

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Old 01-02-14, 11:34 AM
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Polkman
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Default Need help with wheel offsets

Looking at a set of wheels and was wondering if +22 19x 9.5 fronts +22 19x10.5 rears fit on an isf? I know it's aggressive, but with a pull would I still rub? My F is dropped on bc coils. Please let me know.
Old 01-02-14, 12:19 PM
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HellaInc
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You'll be fine with a pull and camber. How low are you planning to go? And what spring rates do you have on your coils?
Old 01-02-14, 12:37 PM
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Polkman
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Originally Posted by HellaInc
You'll be fine with a pull and camber. How low are you planning to go? And what spring rates do you have on your coils?
I'm on 16/12, I'm dropped fairly low I would say 2 inches front and 1 inch rear. I wouldn't mind raising it a bit to make these wheels fit. Thanks for your input!
Old 01-02-14, 12:44 PM
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bnizzle87
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A good amount of camber will definitely be needed. I know not a lot of F members want to camber a lot and take away from the performance aspect of the vehicle, but if you're set on these wheels, then most likely negative camber will have to be increased. +20s offset for front and rear has been done, but I do recall a few of those Fs were more for show than go, which is fine if that is your vision of the F. Best of luck!
Old 01-02-14, 12:44 PM
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yjk1975
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The fronts are fine but a lot of work for rears.
Old 01-02-14, 12:51 PM
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I'm definitely going to need a camber kit no?
Old 01-02-14, 01:33 PM
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lobuxracer
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Ideal offsets for those widths are +26 front and +36 rear from a mechanical integrity perspective. The rears will be difficult for sure, and with a lot of camber, they'll likely put a lot of extra stress on the wheel bearings. So, don't expect normal service life from them.
Old 01-02-14, 01:59 PM
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ISFpat
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Ideal offsets for those widths are +26 front and +36 rear from a mechanical integrity perspective. The rears will be difficult for sure, and with a lot of camber, they'll likely put a lot of extra stress on the wheel bearings. So, don't expect normal service life from them.
I'm curious how you came to that conclusion (offset wise)? Thats 37mm (1.5") out from the stock offset. Most would argue keeping the offset as close to stock while increasing width is the way to go.
Old 01-02-14, 03:34 PM
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lobuxracer
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The centerline of the wheel moves as the wheel gets wider. If you add an inch without changing the offset - imagine widening the stock wheel 1" without any other changes - the centerline of the wheel is an additional 25mm inboard, and you need to reduce the offset to compensate. So, a 9" wide wheel with a +55 offset will have the same centerline as a 10" wheel with a +42.5mm offset (+55mm - 12.5mm = 42.5mm). The centerline of the wheel is what the bearings care about because the factory put the centerline of the wheel right on the centerline of the bearing for maximum service life. A great deal of the suspension's ability to work as designed is also predicated on the wheel centerline being as designed. If it is not, quite literally everything changes. Scrub radius, roll center, instant center, bearing loading...nothing is as it was. So changing wheel fitment has a significant impact on the car's handling, tire wear, and mechanical performance.

In this case, the OEM wheel is +45 in the front and 8" wide. The new wheel is 1.5" wider, so it's 38.1mm wider and the offset needs to decrease half that amount to keep the centerline in the right place. If you subtract 19.05mm from 45, you get 25.95mm. I rounded .05mm and called it 26mm.

Last edited by lobuxracer; 01-02-14 at 03:40 PM.
Old 01-02-14, 05:41 PM
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ISFpat
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
The centerline of the wheel moves as the wheel gets wider. If you add an inch without changing the offset - imagine widening the stock wheel 1" without any other changes - the centerline of the wheel is an additional 25mm inboard, and you need to reduce the offset to compensate. So, a 9" wide wheel with a +55 offset will have the same centerline as a 10" wheel with a +42.5mm offset (+55mm - 12.5mm = 42.5mm). The centerline of the wheel is what the bearings care about because the factory put the centerline of the wheel right on the centerline of the bearing for maximum service life. A great deal of the suspension's ability to work as designed is also predicated on the wheel centerline being as designed. If it is not, quite literally everything changes. Scrub radius, roll center, instant center, bearing loading...nothing is as it was. So changing wheel fitment has a significant impact on the car's handling, tire wear, and mechanical performance.

In this case, the OEM wheel is +45 in the front and 8" wide. The new wheel is 1.5" wider, so it's 38.1mm wider and the offset needs to decrease half that amount to keep the centerline in the right place. If you subtract 19.05mm from 45, you get 25.95mm. I rounded .05mm and called it 26mm.
Keeping the stock offset keeps the original centerline the same. The offset is the centerline's distance from the mounting surface. So by keeping the centerline the same, you would retain the original offset while widening both sides of the wheel equally. In that case, if you added an inch to the wheel's width then you'd add 12.5mm to the outside and 12.5 to the inside of the wheel's width... which then retains the original centerline as well as offset. If you change the offset you're pushing the original centerline to hub mounting point into a different direction.

If what you say is true and I'm wrong..

For me to retain my centerline on a 12" rear wheel:
Stock: x9+55
New wheel: x12+??
New wheel is 75mm wider = 37.5mm to both sides.
Means to retain original centerline = 17.5mm offset on a 12" wheel.

It doesn't make any sense.. or am I not getting what you really mean. Visually it doesn't make any sense to me.
Old 01-02-14, 06:20 PM
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yo i just cleared my inbox but youll have do a pretty serious pull in the back....run stretch tires 225 / 245 maybe 235. Youll also have to run -4 camber in rear -3 up front
Old 01-03-14, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ISFpat
Keeping the stock offset keeps the original centerline the same. The offset is the centerline's distance from the mounting surface. So by keeping the centerline the same, you would retain the original offset while widening both sides of the wheel equally. In that case, if you added an inch to the wheel's width then you'd add 12.5mm to the outside and 12.5 to the inside of the wheel's width... which then retains the original centerline as well as offset. If you change the offset you're pushing the original centerline to hub mounting point into a different direction.

If what you say is true and I'm wrong..

For me to retain my centerline on a 12" rear wheel:
Stock: x9+55
New wheel: x12+??
New wheel is 75mm wider = 37.5mm to both sides.
Means to retain original centerline = 17.5mm offset on a 12" wheel.

It doesn't make any sense.. or am I not getting what you really mean. Visually it doesn't make any sense to me.

Meh - you're right. I'm confusing myself with thoughts of widening the OEM wheels to retain the stock appearance. ET is based on centerline, so yes, the OEM offsets would be ideal regardless of width.
Old 01-03-14, 12:57 PM
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Bigcloud
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Meh - you're right. I'm confusing myself with thoughts of widening the OEM wheels to retain the stock appearance. ET is based on centerline, so yes, the OEM offsets would be ideal regardless of width.
I thought about using them before. One of my friends with a boosted G35 with about 600whp had his wheels widened. They did a good job.
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