DIY: Wire Harness Protector
03-03-16 | 07:20 PM
#16
Honestly it's not their fault... And almost un avoidable... 
Mine had 117k miles on it.. Although it was pliable from the top. As soon as they unbolted & barely moved it, it shattered in 3 places..
The more you touch it, the more it disintegrates..!!
It really is the plastic that's extremely brittle based on age, heat and climates..
Think of a piece of plastic sitting on top of nice hot oven..
Joe Z
Mine had 117k miles on it.. Although it was pliable from the top. As soon as they unbolted & barely moved it, it shattered in 3 places..
The more you touch it, the more it disintegrates..!!
It really is the plastic that's extremely brittle based on age, heat and climates..
Think of a piece of plastic sitting on top of nice hot oven..
Joe Z
03-10-16 | 06:52 PM
#17
Agreed, everything on the 1JZ/2JZ anywhere near the valve covers or turbos is more brittle than an eggshell. Changing the coil pack connectors is always fun though, just lightly squeeze and the fall right off the wires. Easiest connector change ever. Hah.
Jeff
Jeff
03-10-16 | 10:01 PM
#18
Pit Crew
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 238
Likes: 19
From: TX
So the dealer offered to replace this as goodwill? I just went to the car and I just noticed that mine has electrical tape over it too but not as extensive as yours. I did mine in may 2015 so i think it would be too late to have them cover it.
11-05-23 | 04:55 AM
#22
Just replaced the plastic wiring harness protector, as the original one literally shattered like many others have stated here.
2011 ISF, ~138k miles,
The OP is spot on, some pointers is that it's best to unplug the 2 connectors on injector box and the 2 connectors from the black box on top of that one, for more wiggle room.
The 4 total connectors to unplug would be on the passenger side ones.
I had more space sliding the bottom plastic piece in through the passenger side vs the driver side. Good thing the plastic is extremely flexible.
After that, tucking in all the wires and attaching the 2 top plastic pieces are pretty straight forward.
2 of the 4 nuts (part number 90178-A0023) to fasten the plastic cover were missing.
2011 ISF, ~138k miles,
The OP is spot on, some pointers is that it's best to unplug the 2 connectors on injector box and the 2 connectors from the black box on top of that one, for more wiggle room.
The 4 total connectors to unplug would be on the passenger side ones.
I had more space sliding the bottom plastic piece in through the passenger side vs the driver side. Good thing the plastic is extremely flexible.
After that, tucking in all the wires and attaching the 2 top plastic pieces are pretty straight forward.
2 of the 4 nuts (part number 90178-A0023) to fasten the plastic cover were missing.
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