Low dyno pull
#16
Racer
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I would be more focused on the curve than the actual WHP number.
The torque curve looks to be dropping from ~ 325 to ~290 between 5200-5700 RPM - that is pretty significant. It almost looks like the ECU is pulling timing. Did you fuel up at your normal gas station before your runs?
The torque curve looks to be dropping from ~ 325 to ~290 between 5200-5700 RPM - that is pretty significant. It almost looks like the ECU is pulling timing. Did you fuel up at your normal gas station before your runs?
#17
Instructor
i would put the stock intake back on and run it again IMO.
#18
Instructor
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Wow, I just finished reading most threads on intakes for the F and now this. I think you guys hit it on the head. Heat soak seems to be a major issue with most if not all aftermarket intakes. Joe Z intake it is! OP like other members suggested reinstall stock intake and redyno in a few weeks. If similiar results conclude, which is very doubtful. Make sure that dyno machine is calibrated and up to date.
#19
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Wow, I just finished reading most threads on intakes for the F and now this. I think you guys hit it on the head. Heat soak seems to be a major issue with most if not all aftermarket intakes. Joe Z intake it is! OP like other members suggested reinstall stock intake and redyno in a few weeks. If similiar results conclude, which is very doubtful. Make sure that dyno machine is calibrated and up to date.
#22
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Well its alright i like the stock intake design anyways, i swapped it out already and turned it over to reset the ecu, so il take it out tomorrow morning and drive it rough first thing.
#25
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Okay so Its been a couple days since I've swapped the intake and I also found that my battery connections were corroded and bad and changed the terminals so idk if that helped if any at all yall can decide. But here are the charts from a local meet, also note that people were saying the readings for the dyno were lower than average.
#26
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Okay so Its been a couple days since I've swapped the intake and I also found that my battery connections were corroded and bad and changed the terminals so idk if that helped if any at all yall can decide. But here are the charts from a local meet, also note that people were saying the readings for the dyno were lower than average.
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#29
Tech Info Resource
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Corroded battery terminals are very bad news. Ignition depends on getting solid voltage, and corroded terminals can make an otherwise good ignition go very bad at the worst time - when you are at maximum cylinder pressure. It's possible your plugs are lightly fouled too if you ran it in the previous condition for any length of time.
The other thing that could affect this is oil getting into the intake. Oil causes detonation because it is very low octane, and detonation will make the knock sensors go crazy, ECM pulls timing, and you get the ragged looking curve the first dyno shows.
How many miles are on the plugs, and how many miles are on the engine?
The other thing that could affect this is oil getting into the intake. Oil causes detonation because it is very low octane, and detonation will make the knock sensors go crazy, ECM pulls timing, and you get the ragged looking curve the first dyno shows.
How many miles are on the plugs, and how many miles are on the engine?
#30
Lexus Champion
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Glad the intake swap has made some improvement.
Did for mine as well.
Shame they didn't give you the AFR readings on the second dyno.
The curve does look better though.
Fingers crossed the plugs will help even more.
Have you had the battery tested? Might be time to replace that as well after finding the corrosion on the terminals?
Keep us posted with your progress mate.
Cheers.
Peter
Did for mine as well.
Shame they didn't give you the AFR readings on the second dyno.
The curve does look better though.
Fingers crossed the plugs will help even more.
Have you had the battery tested? Might be time to replace that as well after finding the corrosion on the terminals?
Keep us posted with your progress mate.
Cheers.
Peter