Anyone have experience with the RR Racing Air/Oil Separator
#271
Intermediate
iTrader: (2)
https://slickdeals.net/f/10967359-mo...rime-20-35?v=1
"5. 0W40 Mobil 1 “FS” European Car Formula, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, API SN, synthetic = 127,221 psi
This new oil replaces the older version called, 0W40 Mobil 1, European Formula, API SN, synthetic. See below for the older version’s ranking position.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This new “FS” version was tested in Summer 2016.
However, a 40wt hot viscosity rated motor oil is too thick to be ideal for most engines. It is best to select the thinnest motor oil viscosity that will still provide acceptable “hot” oil pressure. And you do NOT need to select the “highest rated” motor oil, just as it comes right out of the bottle, from this Wear Protection Ranking List. There are many highly ranked oils here, that will provide your engine with excellent wear protection. So, you have many oils to choose from.
I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil did have a 16% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 106,876 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.
I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was 280F."
Edit: FYI, when searching the Amazon reviews and Q&A, several customers verify this is in fact the new "FS" formulation.
Last edited by Leander311; 12-05-17 at 10:09 AM.
#272
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
You need to read the blog especially SECTION 2 – MOTOR OIL VISCOSITY SELECTION. Thicker oil is a bad idea for a whole lot of reasons, not the least of which is you will run hotter and lose power. The clearances in this engine are designed for 5w-30 oil. That's what you should run. Anything else is not thinking clearly.
I'll be running Amsoil's 5w-30. It beats even the Mobil 1 Euro oil in every category and has less capacity drop at high temperature.
BTW, he did respond to my post, and advised me to check back in February because his testing schedule is full until then. Sounds fair to me.
Originally Posted by 540 RAT Tech Facts, not Myths
Thicker oils DO NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils, as some people mistakenly believe. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of approximately 200 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, with the primary emphasis on the additive package, which is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. In fact, the test data has shown that 5W20 oils can provide INCREDIBLE wear protection with over 120,000 psi load carrying capability/film strength/shear resistance, while 15W50 oils can sometimes only provide UNDESIRABLE wear protection with less than 60,000 psi. So, DO NOT use thicker oil under the assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines, because that is simply NOT TRUE.
. BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.
. BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.
Originally Posted by 540 RAT Tech Facts, not Myths
3. 5W30 Amsoil Signature Series, synthetic = 134,352 psi
The bottle does not have an API symbol, but it claims the oil can be used in applications that require API SN, GM dexos 1, ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1. It also claims to provide 75% better wear protection than required by the API SN specification (though it does say that claim is in reference to their 0W20 Amsoil Signature Series synthetic). And it claims 50% more cleaning power than Amsoil OE motor oil.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested Fall 2017.
The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category. And it produced the highest psi value ever seen in my testing, from any 5W30 motor oil just as it comes right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives. Very impressive. My test results confirm that Amsoil’s claim of this oil providing exceptional wear protection, is true. This oil could well be “THE MOTOR OIL OF CHOICE” for most High HP engines, including Bad Boy traditional American flat tappet pushrod engines, or for virtually any engine where 5W30 is used.And I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil had only a modest 7% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 124,573 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.
I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was 295F.As it stands in Fall 2017, Amsoil Signature Series synthetic motor oils, hold the top two positions in my Wear Protection Ranking List for oils just as they come, right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives. Motor oils have to be EXTREMELY GOOD to perform that well in my Engineering torture test on motor oil. Amsoil knows what they are doing, and they have set the bar to a new very high level.
The bottle does not have an API symbol, but it claims the oil can be used in applications that require API SN, GM dexos 1, ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1. It also claims to provide 75% better wear protection than required by the API SN specification (though it does say that claim is in reference to their 0W20 Amsoil Signature Series synthetic). And it claims 50% more cleaning power than Amsoil OE motor oil.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested Fall 2017.
The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category. And it produced the highest psi value ever seen in my testing, from any 5W30 motor oil just as it comes right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives. Very impressive. My test results confirm that Amsoil’s claim of this oil providing exceptional wear protection, is true. This oil could well be “THE MOTOR OIL OF CHOICE” for most High HP engines, including Bad Boy traditional American flat tappet pushrod engines, or for virtually any engine where 5W30 is used.And I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil had only a modest 7% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 124,573 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.
I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was 295F.As it stands in Fall 2017, Amsoil Signature Series synthetic motor oils, hold the top two positions in my Wear Protection Ranking List for oils just as they come, right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives. Motor oils have to be EXTREMELY GOOD to perform that well in my Engineering torture test on motor oil. Amsoil knows what they are doing, and they have set the bar to a new very high level.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 12-05-17 at 01:55 PM.
#273
Intermediate
iTrader: (2)
You need to read the blog especially SECTION 2 – MOTOR OIL VISCOSITY SELECTION. Thicker oil is a bad idea for a whole lot of reasons, not the least of which is you will run hotter and lose power. The clearances in this engine are designed for 5w-30 oil. That's what you should run. Anything else is not thinking clearly.I'll be running Amsoil's 5w-30. It beats even the Mobil 1 Euro oil in every category and has less capacity drop at high temperature.
In any case, I'm most interested in something that's very effective, synthetic because it makes me feel warm and fuzzy (however illogical that is), and avoids the "boutique" oil pricing... That Amsoil is triple the price. Mobil 1 5W-30 is near the top at a very steep discount! ..but also loses quite a bit of effectiveness at elevated temperatures. Perhaps combining that with the aftermarket oil cooler I've bought is the smart approach.
#274
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Lexus also advertises a "race-derived engine oil cooling system" that isn't sufficient in several high-temp track applications even over short 20-25 minute sessions... yet he states run as thin an oil as you can to maintain hot oil pressure. Do we know what our oil pressures dip to under hot track conditions?
In any case, I'm most interested in something that's very effective, synthetic because it makes me feel warm and fuzzy (however illogical that is), and avoids the "boutique" oil pricing... That Amsoil is triple the price. Mobil 1 5W-30 is near the top at a very steep discount! ..but also loses quite a bit of effectiveness at elevated temperatures. Perhaps combining that with the aftermarket oil cooler I've bought is the smart approach.
In any case, I'm most interested in something that's very effective, synthetic because it makes me feel warm and fuzzy (however illogical that is), and avoids the "boutique" oil pricing... That Amsoil is triple the price. Mobil 1 5W-30 is near the top at a very steep discount! ..but also loses quite a bit of effectiveness at elevated temperatures. Perhaps combining that with the aftermarket oil cooler I've bought is the smart approach.
Yes, the Amsoil is stupid expensive...$120 for an oil change is almost 3x what I pay for Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart.
The thing I know for absolute sure - if you run 0w-40 it will unquestionably make the engine run hotter. I have seen this over and over again. Thicker oil runs hotter.
#275
Intermediate
iTrader: (2)
Certainly agree, the last thing I need is hotter oil!
Are you having UOA's done on your M1? What other flavors have you tried or are planning on trying?
Can't recall for sure, but I believe the M1EP I bought was to take advantage of their annual rebate. I've two changes worth of the RLI stuff up next.
Are you having UOA's done on your M1? What other flavors have you tried or are planning on trying?
Can't recall for sure, but I believe the M1EP I bought was to take advantage of their annual rebate. I've two changes worth of the RLI stuff up next.
#276
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Certainly agree, the last thing I need is hotter oil!
Are you having UOA's done on your M1? What other flavors have you tried or are planning on trying?
Can't recall for sure, but I believe the M1EP I bought was to take advantage of their annual rebate. I've two changes worth of the RLI stuff up next.
Are you having UOA's done on your M1? What other flavors have you tried or are planning on trying?
Can't recall for sure, but I believe the M1EP I bought was to take advantage of their annual rebate. I've two changes worth of the RLI stuff up next.
Might be better to move this conversation there or start a new thread since we are no longer discussing the AOS.
#277
Intermediate
iTrader: (2)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-uoa-here.html
Might be better to move this conversation there or start a new thread since we are no longer discussing the AOS.
Might be better to move this conversation there or start a new thread since we are no longer discussing the AOS.
#278
Driver School Candidate
Did anyone have to trim their hoses when installing the AOS? Both hoses seem to be too long. The one that connects to the PCV valve particularly worries me as it places a lot of backwards force on the two right-angle connectors, which I assume are not meant to be load bearing. Can/should I trim the hoses? What should I use to trim them? I'm worried about crushing them with scissors and cracking the whole hose...
I think I had every possible thing go wrong with this install. I couldn't unclip the wiring harness. When I removed the PCV hose from the intake manifold, I pulled it off the PCV valve too which was nearly impossible to re-attach. My driver's side engine cover will not fit over the AOS. I couldn't get the AOS hose cleanly onto the intake manifold, it's all crooked and looks wonky. I had to catch a Lyft to Pep Boys to purchase a 13mm wrench since my ratchet wouldn't fit between the left bolt and the coolant tube. When I fired the engine back up, it immediately died and my heart almost died with it. The second time around it idled at 1500 RPM for several minutes before slowly dropping down to normal over the next few minutes. I also dropped my phone into the depths of the engine bay when I was trying to observe the PCV valve to re-attach the hose.
All in all, it took me about 3.5 hours to install this thing and I worked out every issue that arose, except for the hose length issue. I'm concerned that the constant force could cause the right-angle connectors to break. I'm also convinced that I am cursed with an extreme case of Murphy's Law.
I think I had every possible thing go wrong with this install. I couldn't unclip the wiring harness. When I removed the PCV hose from the intake manifold, I pulled it off the PCV valve too which was nearly impossible to re-attach. My driver's side engine cover will not fit over the AOS. I couldn't get the AOS hose cleanly onto the intake manifold, it's all crooked and looks wonky. I had to catch a Lyft to Pep Boys to purchase a 13mm wrench since my ratchet wouldn't fit between the left bolt and the coolant tube. When I fired the engine back up, it immediately died and my heart almost died with it. The second time around it idled at 1500 RPM for several minutes before slowly dropping down to normal over the next few minutes. I also dropped my phone into the depths of the engine bay when I was trying to observe the PCV valve to re-attach the hose.
All in all, it took me about 3.5 hours to install this thing and I worked out every issue that arose, except for the hose length issue. I'm concerned that the constant force could cause the right-angle connectors to break. I'm also convinced that I am cursed with an extreme case of Murphy's Law.
#279
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Did anyone have to trim their hoses when installing the AOS? Both hoses seem to be too long. The one that connects to the PCV valve particularly worries me as it places a lot of backwards force on the two right-angle connectors, which I assume are not meant to be load bearing. Can/should I trim the hoses? What should I use to trim them? I'm worried about crushing them with scissors and cracking the whole hose...
I think I had every possible thing go wrong with this install. I couldn't unclip the wiring harness. When I removed the PCV hose from the intake manifold, I pulled it off the PCV valve too which was nearly impossible to re-attach. My driver's side engine cover will not fit over the AOS. I couldn't get the AOS hose cleanly onto the intake manifold, it's all crooked and looks wonky. I had to catch a Lyft to Pep Boys to purchase a 13mm wrench since my ratchet wouldn't fit between the left bolt and the coolant tube. When I fired the engine back up, it immediately died and my heart almost died with it. The second time around it idled at 1500 RPM for several minutes before slowly dropping down to normal over the next few minutes. I also dropped my phone into the depths of the engine bay when I was trying to observe the PCV valve to re-attach the hose.
All in all, it took me about 3.5 hours to install this thing and I worked out every issue that arose, except for the hose length issue. I'm concerned that the constant force could cause the right-angle connectors to break. I'm also convinced that I am cursed with an extreme case of Murphy's Law.
I think I had every possible thing go wrong with this install. I couldn't unclip the wiring harness. When I removed the PCV hose from the intake manifold, I pulled it off the PCV valve too which was nearly impossible to re-attach. My driver's side engine cover will not fit over the AOS. I couldn't get the AOS hose cleanly onto the intake manifold, it's all crooked and looks wonky. I had to catch a Lyft to Pep Boys to purchase a 13mm wrench since my ratchet wouldn't fit between the left bolt and the coolant tube. When I fired the engine back up, it immediately died and my heart almost died with it. The second time around it idled at 1500 RPM for several minutes before slowly dropping down to normal over the next few minutes. I also dropped my phone into the depths of the engine bay when I was trying to observe the PCV valve to re-attach the hose.
All in all, it took me about 3.5 hours to install this thing and I worked out every issue that arose, except for the hose length issue. I'm concerned that the constant force could cause the right-angle connectors to break. I'm also convinced that I am cursed with an extreme case of Murphy's Law.
I cut the hose a little bit shorter for the same reason you mention. I also trimmed the engine cover as well to make space for the AOS.
#280
Driver School Candidate
#284
The included instructions shipped with the AOS leave much to be desired. I had to take those wires off the bracket and leave them behind the AOS. There's no way to have both installed. Instructions don't even mention this possibility. Oh well.
#285
So I installed this a few days ago just hours before my track day. Install was simple. Had to unclip the wires and then re-clipped after install. I also agree the hose is a tad bit long. I got a kink in mine. But after install, I simply pinched it a little with pliers and it popped back into regular form and looks good.
This thing does its job. Had 6 20-minute sessions in upper 80F degree weather at Mid Ohio road course. Interestingly, sessions 1, 2 and 4 were empty. Sessions 3, 5 and 6 were 2/3 full each time. Not sure why the difference.
I assume normal driving won't produce much of anything but we will see.
This thing does its job. Had 6 20-minute sessions in upper 80F degree weather at Mid Ohio road course. Interestingly, sessions 1, 2 and 4 were empty. Sessions 3, 5 and 6 were 2/3 full each time. Not sure why the difference.
I assume normal driving won't produce much of anything but we will see.