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Does anyone else have any noises coming from these while going slowly over uneven pavement? Sounds like a creak, almost like a loose fender liner or something (but that is not the issue). Doesn't feel like anything is loose. Not really sure what is causing this. The noises seem to get quieter after a few minutes of driving. It is as it's worst when I first start driving in the morning. Maybe a lube issue?
Hey man, I have the same noise. Typically poly bushings require grease to keep noise down, depending on how they are designed/moving. The mornings are noisier because everything is a little looser due to lower temps. You could probably decrease it with some marine grease which is resistant to water. I just deal with it as a price of performance thing, until it get's loud enough then I will get under the car and re-grease. Overtime it "could" get better as everything "breaks in".
Just adding my $.02. I installed the bushings last Saturday in front of my house on jack stands with a friend.
Install was straight forward. I only ran into 2 problems. 1. One of the 150ft/lb bolts had been put on with an airgun and was nearly impossible to remove (the car car from teh factory with a drift to the right and required a subframe shift to straighten out, thanks dealer). 2. One of the OEM bushings was "fused" to the LCA spindle and took some real coaxing to remove. Other than those 2 issues the install was really quite easy with the right tools. Pre-load was easy to set with a feeler gauge.
Driving impressions:
Braking: Immediate noticeable benefit at any speed is the improvement in braking. The car retains it's proper alignment and just stops nice and straight or stable in a turn. Really worth the price of admission right there.
Handling: turn in is sharp and crisp and the car sets for a turn very quickly and holds its line in long sweepers. Bump steer is noticeably reduced mid corner.Transitions are smooth and predictable. Mid corner adjustments are also very controllable.
NVH: First I am shocked at how much the change of one single bushing has on the vehicle. I am really surprised that so much weight seems to be constantly held by this bushing as opposed to the spring/shock assembly. I think it is a little bit of a mistake by Lexus to have so much NVH isolated by a single bushing that can be affected by steering input and breaking instead of a more rigid platform that is isolated at the sub-frame/unit-body interface. Anyway. Road feel is definitely increased in a good way. Noise: is slightly increased but a negligible issue that is nonexistent at at highway speeds. Vibration: on less than idea roads (the majority of roads in California) there is vibration transferred to the cabin in the form of the dash making a few creaks and complaints. I'll learn to live with it. Harshness: I do find that running over the "dots" in the road, manholes, potholes, etc are a little bit harsher than I would have preferred. I will get used to this as well, but for me, I am definitely aware that I have lost some of the refinement the car had before in ride quality. I have heard NO noise whatsoever from the bushing it's self, squeaking, clunking, etc. I used a lot of grease, used copper anti-seize on all bolts and torqued to specified levels. I will check them all again in a week or two.
Further observations: NVH: my car is a Feb. 2008 delivery, with a very low VIN (000284). If I recall correctly '08-'09 had a firmer suspension, later changed to a more compliant one for '10 and later (However providing more traction from '10 on). Perhaps the shocks are transmitting more vibration than will be found in later model cars.
I have the rear F-Sport swaybar installed and feel that the USRS is extremely complimentary. The amount of improvement is about on par. It almost feels like a bigger swaybar was added to the front of the car with out actually having to tie the left and right side of the front suspension together! Very nice. Car seems much more neutral now.
While the USRS is shipped with a 95 durometer bushing, I would be very curious to know what a 92 or 90 would feel like. Perhaps a "sport" and "race" versions should be available?
Open Questions:
1. I'd love to know if there is actually any merit to my hypothesis that the early cars (08-09) respond to this mod with slightly more NVH than the later cars.
2. with the added strain transmitted to the unit-body by the more rigid bushings, would it be an improvement, benefit or reduce NVH by adding either a tie bar under the subframe like this: http://gtspec.com/product/gtspec-fro...-is250is350isf
OR something across the top to isolate the dash vibrations
While the USRS is shipped with a 95 durometer bushing, I would be very curious to know what a 92 or 90 would feel like. Perhaps a "sport" and "race" versions should be available?
I just installed them on my 09 and I can't say I noticed any additional NVH, however I have gutted cats and an ISS forged exhaust. So my car may have more noise and vibration than others.
i will say I didn't notice any noises until after three weeks or so. After that, definitely makes noises over slow bumps. I'll be ordering some good lube and re greasing them when I install my headers next month. Hopefully that takes care of it.
I bought into the Hype and bought the USRS Bushings. All I can say is it's all TRUE I'm not going to waste everyones time and reiterate what the members have said in prior posts, but again, it's true. Glad I did this, but:
I don't recommend installing them on ramps as I did. There simply isn't enough room to maneuver and get a good grip on the wrenches and etc. Also the removal process using the pry bar is a two man job, thought I could do it alone. Same with slipping the new bushing in place with the pry bar.
Maybe it was the heat, I'm in a burb of Phoenix, maybe it was my age, I'm 76, or just maybe it was the ramps, but I found this job a lot harder than other members.
Also, one warning - The inner, smaller bolt that holds the bushing housing in place doesn't thread into the housing like the larger bolt does. That bolt threads into a nut with a shoulder that is on top of the of the housing. This nut can be lost if you don't know it's there - AMHIK.
I bought into the Hype and bought the USRS Bushings. All I can say is it's all TRUE I'm not going to waste everyones time and reiterate what the members have said in prior posts, but again, it's true. Glad I did this, but:
I don't recommend installing them on ramps as I did. There simply isn't enough room to maneuver and get a good grip on the wrenches and etc. Also the removal process using the pry bar is a two man job, thought I could do it alone. Same with slipping the new bushing in place with the pry bar.
Maybe it was the heat, I'm in a burb of Phoenix, maybe it was my age, I'm 76, or just maybe it was the ramps, but I found this job a lot harder than other members.
Also, one warning - The inner, smaller bolt that holds the bushing housing in place doesn't thread into the housing like the larger bolt does. That bolt threads into a nut with a shoulder that is on top of the of the housing. This nut can be lost if you don't know it's there - AMHIK.
Lou
I dropped the whole LCA because I was doing both, but yeah, the nut on top made me scratch my head too. Glad I didn't lose it, but I can sure see it would be pretty easy to do.
I don't recommend installing them on ramps as I did. There simply isn't enough room to maneuver and get a good grip on the wrenches and etc. Also the removal process using the pry bar is a two man job, thought I could do it alone. Same with slipping the new bushing in place with the pry bar.
I agree with your comments on using ramps. It can be done, but it's a bit more challenging. I installed mine using ramps, but helped my buddy install his with the whole front up on jack stands & wheels off (we were doing brakes too).. Using the jack stands was a piece of cake compared to ramps.
Just adding my $.02. I installed the bushings last Saturday in front of my house on jack stands with a friend.
Install was straight forward. I only ran into 2 problems. 1. One of the 150ft/lb bolts had been put on with an airgun and was nearly impossible to remove (the car car from teh factory with a drift to the right and required a subframe shift to straighten out, thanks dealer). 2. One of the OEM bushings was "fused" to the LCA spindle and took some real coaxing to remove. Other than those 2 issues the install was really quite easy with the right tools. Pre-load was easy to set with a feeler gauge.
Driving impressions:
Braking: Immediate noticeable benefit at any speed is the improvement in braking. The car retains it's proper alignment and just stops nice and straight or stable in a turn. Really worth the price of admission right there.
Handling: turn in is sharp and crisp and the car sets for a turn very quickly and holds its line in long sweepers. Bump steer is noticeably reduced mid corner.Transitions are smooth and predictable. Mid corner adjustments are also very controllable.
NVH: First I am shocked at how much the change of one single bushing has on the vehicle. I am really surprised that so much weight seems to be constantly held by this bushing as opposed to the spring/shock assembly. I think it is a little bit of a mistake by Lexus to have so much NVH isolated by a single bushing that can be affected by steering input and breaking instead of a more rigid platform that is isolated at the sub-frame/unit-body interface. Anyway. Road feel is definitely increased in a good way. Noise: is slightly increased but a negligible issue that is nonexistent at at highway speeds. Vibration: on less than idea roads (the majority of roads in California) there is vibration transferred to the cabin in the form of the dash making a few creaks and complaints. I'll learn to live with it. Harshness: I do find that running over the "dots" in the road, manholes, potholes, etc are a little bit harsher than I would have preferred. I will get used to this as well, but for me, I am definitely aware that I have lost some of the refinement the car had before in ride quality. I have heard NO noise whatsoever from the bushing it's self, squeaking, clunking, etc. I used a lot of grease, used copper anti-seize on all bolts and torqued to specified levels. I will check them all again in a week or two.
Further observations: NVH: my car is a Feb. 2008 delivery, with a very low VIN (000284). If I recall correctly '08-'09 had a firmer suspension, later changed to a more compliant one for '10 and later (However providing more traction from '10 on). Perhaps the shocks are transmitting more vibration than will be found in later model cars.
I have the rear F-Sport swaybar installed and feel that the USRS is extremely complimentary. The amount of improvement is about on par. It almost feels like a bigger swaybar was added to the front of the car with out actually having to tie the left and right side of the front suspension together! Very nice. Car seems much more neutral now.
While the USRS is shipped with a 95 durometer bushing, I would be very curious to know what a 92 or 90 would feel like. Perhaps a "sport" and "race" versions should be available?
Open Questions:
1. I'd love to know if there is actually any merit to my hypothesis that the early cars (08-09) respond to this mod with slightly more NVH than the later cars.
2. with the added strain transmitted to the unit-body by the more rigid bushings, would it be an improvement, benefit or reduce NVH by adding either a tie bar under the subframe like this: http://gtspec.com/product/gtspec-fro...-is250is350isf
OR something across the top to isolate the dash vibrations
Hi Andy, we are working on a USRS "Race" version that will be even stiffer, for those of us who are more extreme or do a lot of track events with R-compound tires.. All existing USRS's will be easily upgradeable for a very reasonable price.
Rafi
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Maybe it was the heat, I'm in a burb of Phoenix, maybe it was my age, I'm 76, or just maybe it was the ramps, but I found this job a lot harder than other members.
Wow. I hope I'm as lively as you are when I'm that age.