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This is what I like to hear. After reading this thread I was getting to the point where I didn't want to install my USRS anymore and just sell them lol.
BTW, how bad is the inner tire wear with the stock LCA?
This is what I like to hear. After reading this thread I was getting to the point where I didn't want to install my USRS anymore and just sell them lol.
BTW, how bad is the inner tire wear with the stock LCA?
not bad at all .i never had inner wear that was noticeable because I do at least two alignments each year . But you'll be fine and now I'm lowered on kw v3 and really loved the ride definitely better then stock and just a warning after install you'll want to keep driving . Kinda sucks for me because I got the mod flu and did most mods already and I'm getting bored lmao itchy for that SC kit lmao
This was the alignment sheet from my latest alignment. The shop was able to get everything straightened out and the pull was temporarily fixed, but it quickly fell back into the same issue after an aggressive canyon run.
The small degree of difference in caster doesn't look like it would cause the pull, but I'm also not an alignment expert.
Didn't look like you got much feedback on this, but did you notice that your SAI is jacked? That's usually an indicator something is bent, or likely in your case, your subframe is shifted since it was removed multiple times. It isn't something adjustable, and is set from the factory, so the fact that it's off side to side tells me your suspension is no longer in it's original positioning.
Yes caster and camber deviations side to side would cause a pull, but those are adjustable thus why a pull related to them can be corrected.
Didn't look like you got much feedback on this, but did you notice that your SAI is jacked? That's usually an indicator something is bent, or likely in your case, your subframe is shifted since it was removed multiple times. It isn't something adjustable, and is set from the factory, so the fact that it's off side to side tells me your suspension is no longer in it's original positioning.
Yes caster and camber deviations side to side would cause a pull, but those are adjustable thus why a pull related to them can be corrected.
Thanks for this feedback. The latest shop I took it to is going to help me adjust the subframe at my next appointment. I'm really hoping that'll make the difference because as far as I know, no one has put in the time and effort on adjusting the subframe.
OK it might have been covered before but what exactly does the sub frame alignment involve in detail..............
Basically you loosen it, force to the direction you want to reduce camber and re tighten.
Then re check alignment settings.
I always recommend a quick short drive to re settle suspension before re doing alignment.
A local shop charged me $30 for labor. It was pretty fast and easy. Took them 30 mins
That sound very reasonable. I've been searching for a reputable place that would do the work for that cheap as my OEM bushing have started to squeak.
The only thing holding me back is the supposed rougher ride as I have a few bumpy roads that I have to pass to get to work daily.
That sound very reasonable. I've been searching for a reputable place that would do the work for that cheap as my OEM bushing have started to squeak.
The only thing holding me back is the supposed rougher ride as I have a few bumpy roads that I have to pass to get to work daily.
I live in a city that is riddled with potholes and uneven payment. I say go for it. You won't be disappointed. The ride is not much rougher but you do get better steering feel and braking.
I agree with 3nergiz3d 100% Southern New England are no better, probably worse. Yes, you will notice a little more NVH, but the benefits far outweigh the minor negatives.