When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Everything you need, other than basic tools, is provided. The bushing/housing/shaft/thrust washer come pre-assembled and pre-lubed, you do not need to do anything.
Installation is just like installing the stock bushing, except when you insert the USRS, you first torque it down lightly, then adjust the pre-load bolts on the side of the housing, and then you apply final torque spec on the bolts that attach the USRS to the subframe.
Removal & Installation step by step (no need to remove wheels, car can be on lift, jack stands, or ramps):
(1) Removal of the Original Equipment (OE) bushing. Using a 22mm & 17mm socket, remove the 2 bolts that attach the lower control arm (LCA) bushing housing to the sub-frame. Using a 14mm socket, remove the 4 bolts that attach the 2 sub-frame reinforcement brackets.
(2) Using a 22mm socket, remove the nut located at the end of the LCA spindle.
(3) Once the bushing/housing assembly is loose, it can be removed by using a pry bar to press down on the trailing end of the LCA as shown in the picture below. This will give enough clearance to slide the OE bushing/housing off of the LCA spindle.
(4) Slide the USRS onto the spindle. Install the brace, and loosely tighten all bolts to 10 ft-lbs of torque.
(5) The USRS has two pre-load adjustment bolts. Carefully and loosely tighten bolt pre-load bolts until they come to a stop.
(6) Apply an additional ¼ turn to each preload adjustment bolt.
(7) Check to make sure that you cannot easily insert the 0.020” feeler gauge between the thrust washer and the poly bushing. If the gauge can be inserted, apply an additional small incremental turn to the preload adjustment bolt.
(8) Apply the final torque to the USRS-to-subframe bolts and spindle nut, and you are done!
Hi
Thanks for the Info's.
3 quick comments:
1- Why the 2 adjustments bolts are different types...aspects
2 - What are "spindle nuts" ...?
3- Final torque ? How many Lbs ?
I’ve got some noise from my front end, which I think is shock related, so I’m going to do some maintenance and reinstall these while I’m at it since I didn’t torque things to spec during install (my torque wrench had broken on me - it was a cheapie). What all needs greased on these, just the bolt that goes directly through the bushing? I just want to make sure everything is as quit as possible. Thanks!
Nothing requires grease. If you want to grease for anti-corrosion effect, feel free, but the torque specs are for clean, dry threads, not greased threads. Pretty possible to over torque them with grease or anti-seize.
Mine started to make noises when I am parking and turning the steering wheel. I thought u needed to re-grease it but now I don’t know how to get rid of the noise.
Mine started to make noises when I am parking and turning the steering wheel. I thought u needed to re-grease it but now I don’t know how to get rid of the noise.
Polyurethane bushings will require occasional regreasing. But if the only time you are experiencing noises is at parking speeds, you should ensure all the bolts - especially tie rod and tie rod end bolts - are tightened to spec. AMHIK.
I’m currently chasing suspension noises as well. I may just go through the entire suspensions torque specs. Something sounds very loose, but a visual inspection reveals no obvious issues.
Time to buy the CDI torque wrench I’ve been eyeing.
From what I understand, CDI is snapon’s industrial line. I’m getting the 2503MFRPH, which can measure from 30-250 ft lb. That should handle 99% of everything I need, and it’s also at a very fair price for snap on quality. I just recently started investing in quality tools, and I wish I had done it years ago. They make projects much easier.
Im a fan of mechanical torque wrenchs. I’m a cluster sometimes, and having a dead torque wrench is something I’d rather not deal with. I also like the satisfying “click” when I hit the measured rate.
I've calibrated mechanical torque wrenches and seen how inconsistent they can be. Yes, the click from the spring and cam make a very positive release (most of the time), but everything depends on the spring's tension to work right, and springs get tired over time. They also have linearity issues. That single wrench you're thinking about would be a big mistake. Just because it can go down to 30 ft-lbs doesn't mean it will hold any accuracy at that setting and still be accurate north of 200 ft-lbs. There's a reason I have three wrenches, and it's not entirely because one is 1/4", one is 3/8", and one is 1/2" drive. The very best mechanical torque wrench is a fixed value wrench, but those are completely impractical for the home mechanic. I used them in the Air Force because we had repetitive tasks and only needed a couple of torque values. The wrenches were easy to calibrate, maintained their calibration, and unlike the previous manager's variable value wrenches, they weren't getting thrown away every year because they failed at one end of the range or the other. Again, highly impractical for us, but something to think about relative to click-type torque tools. The other thing I really, really like about the ones I bought is they show you what the final value actually was. No click type can do that. I gave away all my 20+ year old click type Snap-On torque wrenches when I got the electronic units. They're just that much better.
I couldn't agree more about better tools making the job easier. I definitely have some long standing preferences - Snap-On for most hand tools (NOT Blue Line), Ingersoll Rand for air tools (impact and die grinders) and compressors. And I'll never ever buy a cheap floor jack again!
How about the precision split beam style? I agree that having multiple ranges is wise, but I can’t stomach buying two or three quality wrenches right now. I will acquire them as time goes on.
Right now my major goal is suspension, so I need a wrench that can handle those various ranges, and one that is a worthwhile purchase. If I find my shocks are leaking or are part of the noise issue, I’ll be buying Penskes this week. I imagine my wallet will not weigh much afterwards.
Found the noise. The spindle nut had loosened up. When I installed these, I didn’t have a torque wrench Or feeler gauge. I torqued everything to spec today, and the suspension is nice and quiet. I think it’s more responsive, so I had left too much slack in these. Working great now.
10-01-18, 03:10 PM
