Starter? Car fails to start
#91
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Pretty likely the engine mounts are bad too. At least the one on the driver's side will be. Mine definitely is bad, but I'm at 177k in my '08 too.
I totally hear you on the headers. I'm in the same spot. I have the cash, but don't want to part with it right now. Might need it to buy in the market when it finally bottoms out.
I totally hear you on the headers. I'm in the same spot. I have the cash, but don't want to part with it right now. Might need it to buy in the market when it finally bottoms out.
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Joe Z (03-23-20)
#92
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Pretty likely the engine mounts are bad too. At least the one on the driver's side will be. Mine definitely is bad, but I'm at 177k in my '08 too.
I totally hear you on the headers. I'm in the same spot. I have the cash, but don't want to part with it right now. Might need it to buy in the market when it finally bottoms out.
I totally hear you on the headers. I'm in the same spot. I have the cash, but don't want to part with it right now. Might need it to buy in the market when it finally bottoms out.
...
That's my story ...
My question is what else should I try to have done at the same time. And yes I know it's perfect time to do headers and I want them so bad .. but with everything going on in the world Right Now and the lack of 000000's in my bank account it's just not a realistic option right now .. but some preventative maintenance would be more then appreciated.
Thanks for reading..
08 isf with 96k .. I've had it about a year not sure about the history it's from Canada so not alot of info came up on the Lexus site just the airbag recall. Had a pi done before purchasing came back in good shape
That's my story ...
My question is what else should I try to have done at the same time. And yes I know it's perfect time to do headers and I want them so bad .. but with everything going on in the world Right Now and the lack of 000000's in my bank account it's just not a realistic option right now .. but some preventative maintenance would be more then appreciated.
Thanks for reading..
08 isf with 96k .. I've had it about a year not sure about the history it's from Canada so not alot of info came up on the Lexus site just the airbag recall. Had a pi done before purchasing came back in good shape
The starter is packed in behind the passenger side manifold.. As depicted by Lobuxracer..
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Joe Z
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Last edited by Joe Z; 03-24-20 at 01:55 AM.
#93
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Thanks for taking the time to reply back. That's definitely good information. Also something I didn't see further up in the thread.. I'll try to get my hands on them tomorrow... appreciate the cart pic . makes my life a lot easier.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 03-23-20 at 09:56 PM.
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Depending where your parts supply chain flows up to the PNW, you are looking at 1-3 days out on stuff like this.
It is very unlikely a local dealer has these on hand.. Ordering online also takes time.
Joe Z
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#96
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So to give a update... It turned out Im also a member of the bad header crew as well. Cracked at the flange but this turned out to be a good thing.
I had bought a 3rd party warranty at the time of purchase that I've been meaning to cancel for about 6 months ... I just kept saying to my self. It's made it this Long and nothing major yet I could just cancel it and get back most of my money and that they probably will find a way to get out of fixing it when something happens anyway . But I kept putting it off saying I'll do it next weekend.
Turned out that me me being a procrastinator paid off for once.. I told the shop that I couldn't afford new headers right now and have him my warranty info and to give it a shot if they don't over it ... Just put it back on the way it was.. I never thought they would but they did.
They are going to cover all of the labor the header both sides and I also had a bad AFR sensor so I think they are covering that also. So all that I have to cover is the plugs dasno starter and my copay ... So for about 500 I'm going to get OEM headers ( I wish was aftermarket but only a fool would turn down free...) Starter, primary cats, plugs, and AFR sensor.. I completely lucked out on this 1.. and going to keep the warranty it just payed for itself at lest 3x what I paid for it.
I also gave home a parts list of all the things suggested to me .. just for him to look at and replace as needed.
Sorry for the long post but honestly most of us have more free time on our hands then we really want right now. And for the hole time I was writing this I didn't think about coronavirus so that was definitely a good break from real world we now live in... Happy hand washing
I had bought a 3rd party warranty at the time of purchase that I've been meaning to cancel for about 6 months ... I just kept saying to my self. It's made it this Long and nothing major yet I could just cancel it and get back most of my money and that they probably will find a way to get out of fixing it when something happens anyway . But I kept putting it off saying I'll do it next weekend.
Turned out that me me being a procrastinator paid off for once.. I told the shop that I couldn't afford new headers right now and have him my warranty info and to give it a shot if they don't over it ... Just put it back on the way it was.. I never thought they would but they did.
They are going to cover all of the labor the header both sides and I also had a bad AFR sensor so I think they are covering that also. So all that I have to cover is the plugs dasno starter and my copay ... So for about 500 I'm going to get OEM headers ( I wish was aftermarket but only a fool would turn down free...) Starter, primary cats, plugs, and AFR sensor.. I completely lucked out on this 1.. and going to keep the warranty it just payed for itself at lest 3x what I paid for it.
I also gave home a parts list of all the things suggested to me .. just for him to look at and replace as needed.
Sorry for the long post but honestly most of us have more free time on our hands then we really want right now. And for the hole time I was writing this I didn't think about coronavirus so that was definitely a good break from real world we now live in... Happy hand washing
Last edited by Kron1ck; 03-26-20 at 05:06 PM.
#97
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I had the joy of joining the club this weekend out in Hong Kong. Went out to move my car Sunday to wash it, click and nothing. Repeat about three times to no avail. I've had no symptoms of a bad starter up until now. Failed jump the following day, battery reading 11.3V so replaced it and the starter relay, still no go. I'm now resigned to it being a starter failure. I have an 08 with only 47,000KM, (30,000 miles). I'm fairly shocked it happens at such low mileage, but maybe all the short trips here did it in over time.
Being a RHD car I assume the job is harder due to the steering shaft. Will begin the round of calling the dealer and independents today to get quotes. If I was still in the US I'd happily tackle this at the home garage but at least here the labor is a bit cheaper.
Being a RHD car I assume the job is harder due to the steering shaft. Will begin the round of calling the dealer and independents today to get quotes. If I was still in the US I'd happily tackle this at the home garage but at least here the labor is a bit cheaper.
#98
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I had the joy of joining the club this weekend out in Hong Kong. Went out to move my car Sunday to wash it, click and nothing. Repeat about three times to no avail. I've had no symptoms of a bad starter up until now. Failed jump the following day, battery reading 11.3V so replaced it and the starter relay, still no go. I'm now resigned to it being a starter failure. I have an 08 with only 47,000KM, (30,000 miles). I'm fairly shocked it happens at such low mileage, but maybe all the short trips here did it in over time.
Being a RHD car I assume the job is harder due to the steering shaft. Will begin the round of calling the dealer and independents today to get quotes. If I was still in the US I'd happily tackle this at the home garage but at least here the labor is a bit cheaper.
Being a RHD car I assume the job is harder due to the steering shaft. Will begin the round of calling the dealer and independents today to get quotes. If I was still in the US I'd happily tackle this at the home garage but at least here the labor is a bit cheaper.
Steve
#99
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I suppose, but I normally would expect to have seen a string of slow starts leading up to this versus the abrupt no crank I get now. I've run out of troubleshooting at this point, unless there is something that can provide further confirmation in techstream or get my hands on the starter from above to verify connections and whack the solenoid, so on to the repair booking.
#100
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It's not corrosion. It's the Bendix. Easy test - short the connections going to the Bendix in the fuse box. If the engine spins, it's not the starter or Bendix. If it just clicks, for sure, it's the Bendix. Denso's motors are incredibly tough, but the contacts in the Bendix are not. It doesn't make sense to just replace the Bendix because you have to go through the entire starter replacement procedure, so most of us just get a rebuilt unit from Denso. Maybe it's more cost effective in Hong Kong to just replace the Bendix, but the simple test makes determining the root cause pretty easy.
My starter failed when I installed a new LiFePo4 battery. I have no idea why this coincidence happened, but the engine started just fine when I removed the lead acid battery, and only clicked as soon as I installed the lightweight unit. After replacing the starter, the new battery worked perfectly - in fact, better than lead acid.
My starter failed when I installed a new LiFePo4 battery. I have no idea why this coincidence happened, but the engine started just fine when I removed the lead acid battery, and only clicked as soon as I installed the lightweight unit. After replacing the starter, the new battery worked perfectly - in fact, better than lead acid.
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ISFinHKG (04-20-20)
#101
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It's not corrosion. It's the Bendix. Easy test - short the connections going to the Bendix in the fuse box. If the engine spins, it's not the starter or Bendix. If it just clicks, for sure, it's the Bendix. Denso's motors are incredibly tough, but the contacts in the Bendix are not. It doesn't make sense to just replace the Bendix because you have to go through the entire starter replacement procedure, so most of us just get a rebuilt unit from Denso. Maybe it's more cost effective in Hong Kong to just replace the Bendix, but the simple test makes determining the root cause pretty easy.
My starter failed when I installed a new LiFePo4 battery. I have no idea why this coincidence happened, but the engine started just fine when I removed the lead acid battery, and only clicked as soon as I installed the lightweight unit. After replacing the starter, the new battery worked perfectly - in fact, better than lead acid.
My starter failed when I installed a new LiFePo4 battery. I have no idea why this coincidence happened, but the engine started just fine when I removed the lead acid battery, and only clicked as soon as I installed the lightweight unit. After replacing the starter, the new battery worked perfectly - in fact, better than lead acid.
Lexus Dealer price here was near 4,000 USD labor and material, yikes.
#102
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A rebuilt Denso from Rock Auto will have a brand new Bendix. You can't beat it for value, and I'd contend the unit from Toyota/Lexus brand new offers no additional guarantee. I didn't even hesitate buying a rebuilt unit from Rock Auto.
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I found this thread while researching starter replacement on my 2008 IS F w/90K miles, but I actually ended up fixing mine rather than replacing it so I thought I'd share how I did it in case anyone else has the same issue. Based on the loud single "click" when I tried to start it, I figured it was just a stuck solenoid and the motor might be okay. There's an old-school trick of banging on a stuck solenoid to free it up, but since you can't get at our starter without removing the exhaust manifold that wasn't an option. So instead I decided to hit it with some electricity for a longer period of time than just the short burst that it receives when you push the ignition button. So I pulled the starter relay, jumped the two connectors on the right side, and after a few tries it started cranking again! It has been about 3 weeks since I fixed it and I've had zero issues so far (YMMV of course) .
Here's a video to show exactly what I did:
Here's a video to show exactly what I did:
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#104
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I found this thread while researching starter replacement on my 2008 IS F w/90K miles, but I actually ended up fixing mine rather than replacing it so I thought I'd share how I did it in case anyone else has the same issue. Based on the loud single "click" when I tried to start it, I figured it was just a stuck solenoid and the motor might be okay. There's an old-school trick of banging on a stuck solenoid to free it up, but since you can't get at our starter without removing the exhaust manifold that wasn't an option. So instead I decided to hit it with some electricity for a longer period of time than just the short burst that it receives when you push the ignition button. So I pulled the starter relay, jumped the two connectors on the right side, and after a few tries it started cranking again! It has been about 3 weeks since I fixed it and I've had zero issues so far (YMMV of course) .
Here's a video to show exactly what I did:
https://youtu.be/GYUdMSuJQS8
Here's a video to show exactly what I did:
https://youtu.be/GYUdMSuJQS8
Yes, I tried this method with mine before I swapped out the starter, and it did not work because it didn't click at all.
Also, the solenoid used to be pretty pricey, but they've come down a whole lot in the last 5 years. I have one sitting on the shelf with all the necessary plastic covers and the connector body waiting for the next starter failure. They're inevitable.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 03-24-23 at 01:34 PM.
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I found this thread while researching starter replacement on my 2008 IS F w/90K miles, but I actually ended up fixing mine rather than replacing it so I thought I'd share how I did it in case anyone else has the same issue. Based on the loud single "click" when I tried to start it, I figured it was just a stuck solenoid and the motor might be okay. There's an old-school trick of banging on a stuck solenoid to free it up, but since you can't get at our starter without removing the exhaust manifold that wasn't an option. So instead I decided to hit it with some electricity for a longer period of time than just the short burst that it receives when you push the ignition button. So I pulled the starter relay, jumped the two connectors on the right side, and after a few tries it started cranking again! It has been about 3 weeks since I fixed it and I've had zero issues so far (YMMV of course) .
Here's a video to show exactly what I did:
https://youtu.be/GYUdMSuJQS8
Here's a video to show exactly what I did:
https://youtu.be/GYUdMSuJQS8