calteg

One click just hit me today. 2008 with 113k. Looks like a new starter is in my future.
I see LoBux managed to do his on jackstands, makes me hopeful I won't need a lift to tackle this job

@lobuxracer any tips on doing this using jackstands?

calteg

Also, just to confirm, both motor mounts seem like they share the same part number?

Rickna

iTrader: (3)

Yes, they are the same.

lexicon72

Well @calteg misery loves company. My starter just died the day after yours. I had a dead battery, jumping it didn't revive it. So swapped to a new battery and got a single click. My shop (who are the only ones I trust) is busy until mid January. So it's going to be awhile. I'm going to replace the starter, alternator (why not, plus I am going through batteries like crazy), motor mounts (with RR ones), and apparently the starter wire cover per this thread. Good luck on yours!

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

This was similar to my situation. I replaced a working lead acid battery with the Antigravity battery, and the starter solenoid failed on install. Pretty annoying. I also figured out the relay test and despite repeated attempts to get the solenoid to make contact, it never did.

You'll need the wire cover - 82821-30730 - AND the connector body - 90980-11400 Housing Connector F. The connector attaches to the solenoid and will disintegrate when you remove it. Not a big deal, you just take the wire with the end and stuff it in the new connector body and you're good to go.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

There's no magic to using jackstands. You can see how I did it in my pics, but I would do it differently now. Just put the car on the front jack points with your stands, remove the bottom nuts on the engine mounts, raise the engine just a little with your jack and stuff something between the engine and the front sway bar to hold the engine up, then drop the front subframe and proceed as usual. TBH, you could probably just lower the engine onto the sway bar, but that would likely scuff it up. JT2MA71 uses a hockey puck for this and the only issue there is you have to support the engine, drop the subframe, then lower the engine because the hockey puck is pretty thin. It still works well, just the sequence of events is a little different. In the end, do what works, but know that you can actually lower the subframe without worry as long as the front sway bar is mounted to the chassis. You will be disconnecting the ends, but that's nothing to worry about. Also, lowering the engine as low as possible will help with getting the exhaust manifold nuts tight, especially if you're putting on headers. Header install note - tightening all the nuts to the proper torque is not easy, especially the passenger's side rear most cylinder. I used an offset flare nut socket to do this for most of the nuts, but had to use an old school universal joint to get the top rear nut. OE headers are a cakewalk to install.

calteg

As usual, lobux is a G. Came in here to post about my connector body disintegrating and sure enough, he's already on top of it. In my case, most of the connector was in good shape, but he locking tab snapped off during removal.

A few thoughts, while the install is still fresh:
-It's a pretty straightforward job, really only requiring patience. Most complex tools are a lot of varying extensions and a wobble socket. Impact gun helps tremendously too.
-At 113k, my OE headers are in great shape, surprisingly
-For me, the magic combo to support the engine was cinder block + scissor jack with a hockey puck on top. Tried to move the engine as little as possible when I dropped the subframe and this combo seemed to suspend it perfectly
-It's 100% possible to leave the upstream 02 sensors in the headers and pull the entire thing as a unit. Great time saver if you're swapping to aftermarket headers with fresh 02 sensors
-If you're doing a starter replacement, you WILL need to remove the dipstick tube, so just get that out of the way.
-To get to the PITA header nut on the passenger side: Standard 3/8" ratchet with a 12mm deep socket. Oriented it so that the handle is facing towards the hood. Slid a cheater pipe down from the top and broke it loose that way, easy peasy.