Starter? Car fails to start
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Starter? Car fails to start
So when I try to start the F there is a single click heard.
Battery is tested good and is only 6 months old.
Been trying to locate the starter. From what I believe is it in the V install Valley? Meaning the entire cover needs to come off?
Coincidence that maybe this has to do with the recall....
Any instructions on how to find / get to the starter would be appreciated. I will continue to see if the connection of cables are good.
Battery is tested good and is only 6 months old.
Been trying to locate the starter. From what I believe is it in the V install Valley? Meaning the entire cover needs to come off?
Coincidence that maybe this has to do with the recall....
Any instructions on how to find / get to the starter would be appreciated. I will continue to see if the connection of cables are good.
#2
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
It's not in the valley. On the right down low, but you'll be fighting the header to get to it. Could be a number of possibilities, but Supras had issues with the Bendix contacts. Pretty rare if it is the starter motor itself.
I'd be looking at the brake light switch first.
I'd be looking at the brake light switch first.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 08-22-15 at 09:25 PM.
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Seems I found where it is located on a diagram:
Maybe you have a point - many people mention these rarely ever go - there has been no modifications in those areas so perhaps it is something else ...
Any further guidance?
All I hear when I press Start is ONE "Click"
Apparently on the TIS manual it states "remove engine and transmission"????@!@!??? for removal of the starter - but I should see if I could verify the wires if that would be possible - maybe some of the heat shields will allow me to have better access? I literally feel I cannot see anything from under or above ...
Maybe you have a point - many people mention these rarely ever go - there has been no modifications in those areas so perhaps it is something else ...
Any further guidance?
All I hear when I press Start is ONE "Click"
Apparently on the TIS manual it states "remove engine and transmission"????@!@!??? for removal of the starter - but I should see if I could verify the wires if that would be possible - maybe some of the heat shields will allow me to have better access? I literally feel I cannot see anything from under or above ...
#5
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^^ I had the exact same issue on my B8 S4 last year. The car had less than 20,000 miles at the time, and the dealer took a hell of a long time to diagnose the problem. Turned out the starter solenoid was bad - had to replace the starter.
#6
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Just wondering if that loud sound is a strike to the flywheel?
I should pull my battery and clean all the connections.
Not enough current?
Seems that to replace the starter is nearly impossible on this vehicle.
I should pull my battery and clean all the connections.
Not enough current?
Seems that to replace the starter is nearly impossible on this vehicle.
#7
Did this turn out to be your starter? Mine is doing the EXACT same thing and the dealer quoted me almost $1700 to replace it.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (18)
I just replace a failed starter on an ISF for a customer two weeks ago. Same symptoms, just a click. I bench tested it once removed and confirmed the issue. He already had a Denso replacement ready for me when I pulled it out so we sent the original one back as a core.
The starter is tucked up above the right exhaust manifold. Fourtunatly this car was getting PPE headers installed which made the starter install much easier. I would hate to try to replace it without the manifold removed and I'm not really sure if it's even an option.
The car I was working on had 130k on it so it wasn't a huge deal that the starter failed. I did however find that the starter is subjected to a ton of heat since it's stuffed between the engine and the manifold. All of the plastic wire guides and protectors were so brittle that they just crumbled with a light touch of the hand. I had to come up with a different solution for protecting the wires.
There are heat shields around the starter but since it's in a pocket between the manifold, block, cylinder head and the transmission I don't see any way for the heat to escape or deflect away from it. I'm pretty sure this will be a common failure as the cars age.
The starter is tucked up above the right exhaust manifold. Fourtunatly this car was getting PPE headers installed which made the starter install much easier. I would hate to try to replace it without the manifold removed and I'm not really sure if it's even an option.
The car I was working on had 130k on it so it wasn't a huge deal that the starter failed. I did however find that the starter is subjected to a ton of heat since it's stuffed between the engine and the manifold. All of the plastic wire guides and protectors were so brittle that they just crumbled with a light touch of the hand. I had to come up with a different solution for protecting the wires.
There are heat shields around the starter but since it's in a pocket between the manifold, block, cylinder head and the transmission I don't see any way for the heat to escape or deflect away from it. I'm pretty sure this will be a common failure as the cars age.
#9
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Was the starter motor bad, or was the solenoid bad? IME, the motors last forever, but the solenoid (actually the contact in the solenoid) is what goes bad.
#10
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
zombie thread revival!!!
I had this happen to me today. 6:45am car start fine today and drove 25 miles to work. 8 hours later, car won't start. The video is exactly what happens to my car.
AAA battery guy came out and tested battery and battery is fully charged and functioning. I had full power without any dimming of lights or any power lost. AAA guy tapped on the back of the motor where the firewall is and sure enough the car starts.
Called the dealership and they quoted me $1k to replace starter.
Debating on going to the dealership rather than an independent shop to save possible headaches and dealership will get me a loaner.
Dealership yay or nah?
I had this happen to me today. 6:45am car start fine today and drove 25 miles to work. 8 hours later, car won't start. The video is exactly what happens to my car.
AAA battery guy came out and tested battery and battery is fully charged and functioning. I had full power without any dimming of lights or any power lost. AAA guy tapped on the back of the motor where the firewall is and sure enough the car starts.
Called the dealership and they quoted me $1k to replace starter.
Debating on going to the dealership rather than an independent shop to save possible headaches and dealership will get me a loaner.
Dealership yay or nah?
#11
Racer
iTrader: (3)
DIY or take to independent shop.
zombie thread revival!!!
I had this happen to me today. 6:45am car start fine today and drove 25 miles to work. 8 hours later, car won't start. The video is exactly what happens to my car.
AAA battery guy came out and tested battery and battery is fully charged and functioning. I had full power without any dimming of lights or any power lost. AAA guy tapped on the back of the motor where the firewall is and sure enough the car starts.
Called the dealership and they quoted me $1k to replace starter.
Debating on going to the dealership rather than an independent shop to save possible headaches and dealership will get me a loaner.
Dealership yay or nah?
I had this happen to me today. 6:45am car start fine today and drove 25 miles to work. 8 hours later, car won't start. The video is exactly what happens to my car.
AAA battery guy came out and tested battery and battery is fully charged and functioning. I had full power without any dimming of lights or any power lost. AAA guy tapped on the back of the motor where the firewall is and sure enough the car starts.
Called the dealership and they quoted me $1k to replace starter.
Debating on going to the dealership rather than an independent shop to save possible headaches and dealership will get me a loaner.
Dealership yay or nah?
#14
Pit Crew
A reman Denso starter can be purchased for $200 including core.
The solenoids do go bad on these. They are not rebuildable like the older units.
I bench tested a bad UR series starter, it showed the symptoms of worn contacts. Upon cutting the solenoid open, the plunger moved smoothly, and the contacts were only half worn ... But, I suspect the mechanism to which the contact bridge mounts was pivoting at an angle, thus not allowing it to cleanly bridge the two contacts.
The solenoids do go bad on these. They are not rebuildable like the older units.
I bench tested a bad UR series starter, it showed the symptoms of worn contacts. Upon cutting the solenoid open, the plunger moved smoothly, and the contacts were only half worn ... But, I suspect the mechanism to which the contact bridge mounts was pivoting at an angle, thus not allowing it to cleanly bridge the two contacts.
#15
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
A reman Denso starter can be purchased for $200 including core.
The solenoids do go bad on these. They are not rebuildable like the older units.
I bench tested a bad UR series starter, it showed the symptoms of worn contacts. Upon cutting the solenoid open, the plunger moved smoothly, and the contacts were only half worn ... But, I suspect the mechanism to which the contact bridge mounts was pivoting at an angle, thus not allowing it to cleanly bridge the two contacts.
The solenoids do go bad on these. They are not rebuildable like the older units.
I bench tested a bad UR series starter, it showed the symptoms of worn contacts. Upon cutting the solenoid open, the plunger moved smoothly, and the contacts were only half worn ... But, I suspect the mechanism to which the contact bridge mounts was pivoting at an angle, thus not allowing it to cleanly bridge the two contacts.
I bought a denso reman from rock auto
Anything else I should replace while putting in the reman starter?