Well, I did have some questions but I got my nitrous setup hooked up. Combo of being stupid, excited and distracted I denied my initial thoughts that I needed to dilute my e25 blend with fresh 93. I was at 1/4 tank and read about RR racing with they're supercharged shop car running into LPFP strain under 1/5th tank due to fuel slosh. Also, reset my pcm so timing maps would default back to lowest and add timing as necessary. Additionally I opted to run my OE heat range and pull them for inspection after a few pulls.

So I did 3 pulls, couldn't get my purge valve working so first hit was dry and i shutdown immediately, 2nd and 3rd ran perfect - no noises, nothing. 4th hit after cool-down period got a mild misfire and then limp mode. I was on a busy highway (60mph speed limit that everyone does 10mph over on.) So I limped it about 2 miles to the next exit.( paranoid after so many people target fixate and slam into disabled cars)

Got it home and was pretty discouraged, next day did a cold compression test. 2 145, 4 145, 6 125, 8 0psi, 1 160, 3 155, 5 160, 7 155.
Cylinder 8 ground straps were melted onto the spark plug.
Scoped cylinder 8 and found what appears to be ringlands sitting on top of the piston.
Engine is getting pulled tomorrow. Just waiting to haul the cherry picker home and get a capable assistant to separate engine and trans, etc.

I'm really torn here, a built engine would run ~$7k from RR. Used engines are 3-6k and would be much-less stressful and a much faster turnaround.
I could also ask a local machine shop to do the work but I'm nervous about people building the engine who have NEVER touched one.
Pulling heads, timing belts/chains, etc, you name it I'm not scared of ( 10yrs in the industry) but I leave engine work to the people who build engines on the daily.
If I was to build the engine, I might as well get the heads P&P, intake, and RCF throttle body but again this drives up the cost significantly.
Anyway, I'll probably start my own thread with progress and findings.

 

jesus, that sucks to hear man

Sounds like you got detonation from running too lean?

I guess our fuel system cant handle the demands of nitrous if running ethanol?

Would think E would be more detonation resistant than 93 but must have really been starved for fuel

What size shot were you running?

 

Please start your own thread .I out together my kit by myself and it has been running fine. What size shot did you run? I have a feeling that you didn't use the correct jets for ethanol and maybe it did starve if you were that low on fuel.

 

My guess from the ringland laying on top of the piston and melted plug is detonation yeah.

E25 leans us out too much and yeah I thought it would be relatively safe but, all the n2o guys i talked to said NO for e85 It was just a stupid rushed mistake i made and totally forgot to pump before we took the car out.
Tempted to just go with a used engine since it will be way less headache in the long run and I don't have to be paranoid about that $7k dent in my wallet failing on me. I'm confident RR would do good work, but hesistant to spend that much. Also if I go forged, I want to P&P the heads since it would be the prime time to do so.

 

.047 n2o, .025 fuel

 

If you were on e25 mix , that might have been too lean or the fuel solenoid did not open. Did you log your air fuels on that last pull?

 

I had mine running on 91oct.. I added a bit more fuel by using a jet for a 100shot fuel and 75 shot n20. (cant remember the sizes)

But yea Ethanol is a no go with nitrous since you already need 30% more fuel just for the E85 alone. Add the extra demand for the nitrous and then the fuel system is maxed out.

You also should have been running at LEAST 2 step colder plugs.. Also when spraying, it should be in manual mode without hitting the rev limiter. If you hit the rev limiter, that is almost a guarantee for detonation.
the ECU also has to be stock OR a RR tune specifically for nitrous because the timing needs to be retarded.

 

I've tried searching everywhere, do our cars cut fuel or spark at the rev limiter?

 

One step cooler is enough, and you hit the rev limiter as much as you want as long as your window switch is set up to shut off spray before the redline, I run nitrous and hit the rev limiter many times.

 

I was talking about systems that don't have a window switch, like the ZEX systems. You are correct that one step colder is enough, however most tuners will advise to run 2 steps.

 

I don't know where you got your info but zex has one too, I have zex.

 

That is news to me lol.. My systems is a few years old and why I did it, I went top of the line for the ZEX set up.. I just checked out their site and you are correct. That programable TPS didnt exist from them when I built my set up.

I have this: http://www.zex.com/zx/v8-efi-wet-nitrous-systemhtml/

 

Hmmm so tempting to run a 75 shot and hopefully break the 11’s...