ATF (fluid) for IS F
12-30-15 | 07:25 PM
#16
Ive always did the drain pan/fill from dipstick method for all my families toyotas and they've actually made a huge improvement in shifting even by draining the pan and refilling, even the new ws fluid. I'm debating if I should tackle this the same way, I bought the washers from the dealer and a box of ws fluid so once its done for the first time it should be cake doing it multiple times to get it where I want.
01-03-16 | 11:31 PM
#18
Ive always did the drain pan/fill from dipstick method for all my families toyotas and they've actually made a huge improvement in shifting even by draining the pan and refilling, even the new ws fluid. I'm debating if I should tackle this the same way, I bought the washers from the dealer and a box of ws fluid so once its done for the first time it should be cake doing it multiple times to get it where I want.
01-17-16 | 04:05 PM
#20
If you're ever driven a manual transmission car, I'd say it's most similar to a slipping clutch. When you press on the gas, the RPM will shoot up a few hundred RPM while at the same time not really accelerating. It'll then "catch" and the RPM will drop down and you'll start gaining power. My car (which also has 60k miles) has the cold flare. It also flares when it's warm and when going down hill (at times, not always). I have an appointment with Lexus of Riverside to get my trans fluid checked. If they find it low, they're going to help add some fluid. I'm probably going to tell them to also extract some so that I could send a sample to Blackstone.
Of all the dealers I called in the greater Los Angeles area, Lexus of Riverside, and specifically Erik Smith (SA) seemed to be the most knowledgeable about the trans issue I described, and the most knowledgable when it came down to the actual procedures for the fluid check/fill. Most SA were telling me it would only take 2 hours for the check and were asking way more than what Erik was asking. For reference, he asked for less than 200, while the other dealers (which seemed to have no idea about the complexity of the procedures) was asking for 350+. If you're in SoCal, I suggest giving that dealer a call and asking for Erik. Or, you can wait for my results. I have my appointment schedule for January 14th.
Of all the dealers I called in the greater Los Angeles area, Lexus of Riverside, and specifically Erik Smith (SA) seemed to be the most knowledgeable about the trans issue I described, and the most knowledgable when it came down to the actual procedures for the fluid check/fill. Most SA were telling me it would only take 2 hours for the check and were asking way more than what Erik was asking. For reference, he asked for less than 200, while the other dealers (which seemed to have no idea about the complexity of the procedures) was asking for 350+. If you're in SoCal, I suggest giving that dealer a call and asking for Erik. Or, you can wait for my results. I have my appointment schedule for January 14th.
01-18-16 | 10:33 AM
#21
Yup, got the results back from the SA on Friday. I had the dealer pull a sample for analysis purposes. The transmission fluid was low by 1/2 a quart. I was stuck with making the decision of having them top off the fluid or to replace all 11/12 quarts (can't remember the exact quantity off the top of my head). Despite the only piece of information available being the color of the fluid (which is not a good way to determine the remaining life of the fluid) I went ahead and had the dealer replace all the fluid for peace of mind. Some may believe this to be a waste of money, especially since my fluid hadn't been analyzed, but in the end at least I know there is fresh fluid and the fluid is properly leveled. Regardless I'm sending in my sample to Blackstone to see what they say. I'll update this thread when the results finally come back, but that may be a few weeks from now. Unfortunately I haven't had the time to drive my car to determine if the flare was still present, but time will tell.
I've attached a picture of the sample, although it probably doesn't say much:
I've attached a picture of the sample, although it probably doesn't say much:
01-18-16 | 11:42 AM
#22
Looks pretty typical. Odds are it's fine, but I am a lot more curious how they swapped out the fluid. I've only seen one method I would trust to do that with only 12 quarts on hand. Most of the rest of them would use 18 to 20 quarts because there is no way to segregate the good from the bad with the vast majority of flushing tools out there.
01-18-16 | 12:54 PM
#23
Looks pretty typical. Odds are it's fine, but I am a lot more curious how they swapped out the fluid. I've only seen one method I would trust to do that with only 12 quarts on hand. Most of the rest of them would use 18 to 20 quarts because there is no way to segregate the good from the bad with the vast majority of flushing tools out there.
01-18-16 | 02:57 PM
#27
01-18-16 | 07:11 PM
#28
Looks pretty typical. Odds are it's fine, but I am a lot more curious how they swapped out the fluid. I've only seen one method I would trust to do that with only 12 quarts on hand. Most of the rest of them would use 18 to 20 quarts because there is no way to segregate the good from the bad with the vast majority of flushing tools out there.
12-17-18 | 01:53 AM
#30
Changing ATF Fluid (Help)
Without all controversy, I will be doing a 4 Quart Drain and fill on the IS F. I need help though.
I understand how to get to the proper temps using the OBD, but I wanted to know if I have the steps recalled correctly.
Vehicles is Cold ( Winter Morning 50 F degrees )
1.Open Fill Port
2.Open Drain Port
3.Let X quarts drain and measure amount.
4.Put X Quarts back into fill port
5. Test Temp with OBD II
Im unsure if the fill port on the IS F is also the overflow port. Someone please input me on that.
Also would it be better to drain and fill cold to get better measurements? If I was off would I have to wsit for the car to completely cool down again?
I understand how to get to the proper temps using the OBD, but I wanted to know if I have the steps recalled correctly.
Vehicles is Cold ( Winter Morning 50 F degrees )
1.Open Fill Port
2.Open Drain Port
3.Let X quarts drain and measure amount.
4.Put X Quarts back into fill port
5. Test Temp with OBD II
Im unsure if the fill port on the IS F is also the overflow port. Someone please input me on that.
Also would it be better to drain and fill cold to get better measurements? If I was off would I have to wsit for the car to completely cool down again?