Those with a ECU tune , results please
03-29-16, 10:00 PM
#346
In order for someone to do a before and after dyno to show the tune is working, their knock correction level value must be at 22 (or close). If it's not there, the car will perform closer to stock whp numbers , like it has been discussed before. So keep doing those 4th gear pulls and your car should gradually feel quicker.
03-30-16, 07:57 AM
#348
Pole Position
^^^Agreed this needs to be clarified from one of the tuners that if the knock correction value is up between 22-25 will it stay there until the battery is disconnected or something else happens??
03-30-16, 08:21 AM
#349
Pole Position
I am monitoring mine just to try to educate myself on how the whole system works and it is fairly stable. I can tell you that doing WOT runs after sitting in traffic with high IATs does create some knock - at least in my car. As long as the knock is short lived the value stays up. If it continues over multiple pulls, the kclv will begin to drop. However once I'm back to normal IATs the knock activity is gone and the kclv will begin to go back up. So... it's a very dynamic thing. Will be interesting to see what happens this summer when temps climb here in the south. Again, the more data we can collect as a group the better so we can provide good feedback to the tuners.
03-30-16, 10:03 AM
#350
KCLV changes based on feedback it gets from knock sensors over a wide range of engine loading. As long as the knock sensors are happy it will stay high. If the sensors detect sustained knock over time (which can be caused by a variety of issues) the KCLV will drop. However, if you are running high quality fuel and your car is in otherwise good mechanical condition (plugs, valves, etc..) it *should* stay up. If you disconnect the battery it will reset to 15.
I am monitoring mine just to try to educate myself on how the whole system works and it is fairly stable. I can tell you that doing WOT runs after sitting in traffic with high IATs does create some knock - at least in my car. As long as the knock is short lived the value stays up. If it continues over multiple pulls, the kclv will begin to drop. However once I'm back to normal IATs the knock activity is gone and the kclv will begin to go back up. So... it's a very dynamic thing. Will be interesting to see what happens this summer when temps climb here in the south. Again, the more data we can collect as a group the better so we can provide good feedback to the tuners.
I am monitoring mine just to try to educate myself on how the whole system works and it is fairly stable. I can tell you that doing WOT runs after sitting in traffic with high IATs does create some knock - at least in my car. As long as the knock is short lived the value stays up. If it continues over multiple pulls, the kclv will begin to drop. However once I'm back to normal IATs the knock activity is gone and the kclv will begin to go back up. So... it's a very dynamic thing. Will be interesting to see what happens this summer when temps climb here in the south. Again, the more data we can collect as a group the better so we can provide good feedback to the tuners.
03-30-16, 10:11 AM
#351
Best $20 you'll spend.
I've programmed my wife's power lift gate on her RX350 once and it paid for itself 5x compared to going to the dealership. You can program your own keys and TPMS IIRC also. You can do a ton of other goodies also.
The Datalogging is quite good I found out as long as you make a custom PID data list and not monitor too many items at once.
03-30-16, 10:19 AM
#352
Amazon.com: Ideashop® Mini VCI V8.10.021 16 Pin OEM TIS Techstream Diagnostic Scanner For OEM Toyota Cable & Software TIS Techstream 2534 OBD2 Diagnostic Tool: Electronics
Best $20 you'll spend.
I've programmed my wife's power lift gate on her RX350 once and it paid for itself 5x compared to going to the dealership. You can program your own keys and TPMS IIRC also. You can do a ton of other goodies also.
The Datalogging is quite good I found out as long as you make a custom PID data list and not monitor too many items at once.
Best $20 you'll spend.
I've programmed my wife's power lift gate on her RX350 once and it paid for itself 5x compared to going to the dealership. You can program your own keys and TPMS IIRC also. You can do a ton of other goodies also.
The Datalogging is quite good I found out as long as you make a custom PID data list and not monitor too many items at once.
Last edited by jat0223; 03-30-16 at 10:23 AM.
03-31-16, 11:43 AM
#353
Thank you mean streak for the incredibly detailed logging. This is exactly what we need. In fact speaking to rafi, he had told me about your situation, I as well shut the hood and didn't bother putting the sides on to isolate the engine from the airbox potentially resulting in my low (ish) numbers. I have since reset the ecu and put the sides back on. Butt dyno says yay. Ordered my obd2 plug in today, will be data logging next week and sending in my results to rafi to analyze.
03-31-16, 12:14 PM
#354
Pole Position
I didn't even consider this, I figured the engine plastic pieces were for cosmetics rather than performance. By removing them I figured I was getting the heat out but in turn potentially robbing the car's HP. I'm going to install them and reset the ECU and hopefully this will continue the learning process of the new tune.
03-31-16, 12:28 PM
#355
^^^^This is in disagreement with Rafi's Post on the preceding page:
Lou
Thank you for posting all that data! I just want to make sure everyone understands the issue here:
(1) On the road you really want to keep that passenger side plastic engine cover in place... it partially shields the hot air coming from the engine bay when the flapper door on the airbox opens. Improving the shielding and sealing it off better, as well as ducting some cold air into the fender area will improve "real world" air temps even further.
(2) On the dyno dyno fans are no where near powerful enough to simulate real world air speeds. Even the most powerful fans might be pushing 30-40mph of air. So you want to open the hood, and you also want to remove that passenger side cover during a dyno run, and make sure there is cool fan air flowing above the airbox, or at the airbox.
Because our ignition timing with the tune is more aggressive than the stock igntion maps, it is especially critical to get these things right, or the ECU will simply reduce ignition learning and real-time correction.
Rafi
(1) On the road you really want to keep that passenger side plastic engine cover in place... it partially shields the hot air coming from the engine bay when the flapper door on the airbox opens. Improving the shielding and sealing it off better, as well as ducting some cold air into the fender area will improve "real world" air temps even further.
(2) On the dyno dyno fans are no where near powerful enough to simulate real world air speeds. Even the most powerful fans might be pushing 30-40mph of air. So you want to open the hood, and you also want to remove that passenger side cover during a dyno run, and make sure there is cool fan air flowing above the airbox, or at the airbox.
Because our ignition timing with the tune is more aggressive than the stock igntion maps, it is especially critical to get these things right, or the ECU will simply reduce ignition learning and real-time correction.
Rafi
03-31-16, 12:49 PM
#357
Pole Position
Just as an example - Ambient air was 60F. With the cover off I was seeing IATs over 100F at WOT. With the cover in place IATs now drop during a run to within a few degrees of ambient. That's a big deal. Maybe because I have headers it exaggerates the situation but I would encourage everyone to make sure the cover is in place and properly secured.
03-31-16, 01:23 PM
#358
Pole Position