Drok149

7.2k and I try to shift at 7k. And I just mash the gas on the start to launch.

XutvJet

What was the DA between the runs though. DA, especially negative, has a massive impact on ET/MPH. You need to correct all times to standard conditions in order to have any hope of gauging power modification gains/losses. Negative DA conditions like those seen in the Northeast during the Fall/Winter/Spring months really skews the data. I've seen this for years. Most of the quickest/fastest stock and lightly modded cars reside in the NE. There's good reason for that.....negative DA. LOL

Drok149

I stated in the drag thread it was at -1400 I must have forgotten to put it here. With comparable DA's last spring and fall I ran a best of 12.383 and was consistently in the 12.4-12.6 range. Since then I added PPE headers over my gutted cats which the one time I went last fall I was running the same times as with gutted cats. Obviously I added the tune as well. I usually only go to the track when I'm going to have a favorable DA -800 or better.

XutvJet

http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...ect+ET+and+MPH


You can use this website help you correct your ET/MPH to SAE conditions to compare gain improvements assuming 60 foots are close. It also allows you to pull historical weather conditions in order to accurately source your DA conditions. Your 11.93@119.73mph (quite impressive, I may add) would correct to a 12.11@117.85mph in sea level/SAE conditions. Still impressive. So basically that very oxygen rich air is giving your ISF a "free" increase of power of around 20-25whp/wtq.

RSXiMUS

iTrader: (7)

Once RR Racing figures out how to keep the torque converter locked up after 6800, the car would keep accelerating from 6800-7200 and you shouldn't have to shift to 5th or ride the limiter in 4th.

I'm guessing that could be worth a tenth or two off your ET.

Drok149

I'm familiar with the site that's where I calculate my DA but from reading the stickied drag thread that's not how it's done here. DA is noted but your time is your time plain and simple. The top times from toothdoc and caymandiver are not corrected the way your stating.

Drok149

I would think it should help because your very limited now crossing the line. Your at a tough rpm. I experimented with shifting a few runs early at 6.3-6.5k and it didn't yield great results unfortunately

RSXiMUS

iTrader: (7)

^^ Yup.

I mean I've never seen anybody post their 1/4 mile runs with disclaimer "corrected SAE sea level" condition before...

If that was the case, Drok149 would hold the record for quickest FBO ISF currently because I think caymandiver's 11.87 run iirc was at a much lower DA than Drok149's.

Drok149

Unfortunately (for me) his was less than mine, around -1100 or -1200. The figs 2 piece rear rotors I think are a huge help as well as his 3.5lb battery, M/T's and Bc coilovers with swift springs . It's crazy a tune can pretty much offset all 4 of those things

Meanstreak

^^Don't forget lightweight 18" wheels also. Rotational mass reduction is a big deal on the strip.

Drok149

Even better so those 5 things plus the tuned intake, IMHO I think 11.4-11.5 is possible in the right conditions(-1000+ DA). The biggest issue will be the shift to 5th at that point I would think.

Rohi123

The rear figs rotors weight the same as stock, the front ones are lighter

RSXiMUS

iTrader: (7)

I was under the impression that the FIGS 2pc were 4.5lbs lighter each in the rear and 7lbs lighter in the front?

http://www.shopfigs.com/v1/index.php...product_id=127

Rohi123

I'll have to double check, I remember I was looking to buy some and I found out that they were the same weight, but I could be wrong

Lets Drive

iTrader: (3)

At the time I swapped them, I weighed them at 8.6 lbs lighter in front, 6 lbs lighter in the rear, for a total savings of 29.2 lbs all around.

I've seen people post different numbers, but I'm positive my 2 pc. rears were lighter than the factory ones, which I changed at 33k miles.