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The extra hour you spend to drop the subframe is worth it instead of getting frustrated trying to work around it and you'll be able to get your torque wrench in there to tighten the manifold to spec.
The extra hour you spend to drop the subframe is worth it instead of getting frustrated trying to work around it and you'll be able to get your torque wrench in there to tighten the manifold to spec.
Excellent response. I should be adding the FIGS LCA bushings anyway. So I'll do both at the same time and get an alignment.
Got this done today on a lift. Not a bad job. Disconnected steering shaft from the rack, mounts, and sway bar, and subframe drops a few inches. Enough clearance to remove the shields and manifold. Engine mount did not have to come off. With the right combination of sockets and extensions, all the manifold nuts are easily accessible. I think it took longer waiting to get the part back from the welder
Got this done today on a lift. Not a bad job. Disconnected steering shaft from the rack, mounts, and sway bar, and subframe drops a few inches. Enough clearance to remove the shields and manifold. Engine mount did not have to come off. With the right combination of sockets and extensions, all the manifold nuts are easily accessible. I think it took longer waiting to get the part back from the welder
nice looking weld. So is the design of the rear flange that the flange is welded to the back tube but loose over the front?
So I'm planning on removing my PPE headers and going back to stock headers.
Before I do so I'm planning on taking my stock headers to a shop to have the welds reinforced.
Anything I should know of or beware of prior to doing so? Any best practices or tips I should give the shop a heads up on?
So I'm planning on removing my PPE headers and going back to stock headers.
Before I do so I'm planning on taking my stock headers to a shop to have the welds reinforced.
Anything I should know of or beware of prior to doing so? Any best practices or tips I should give the shop a heads up on?
Count me in as another victim. I was contemplating on getting the PPE but decided to just get the brand new oem that was for sale here on the boards. I have the hayward and scott exhaust and it is loud enough as it is. Pairing it with PPE would make it insanely louder and would attract unwanted attention from the cops here in CA. Stupid CA noise law.
So does anyone know how to look for these with a borescope? I’ve been trying to slip a borescope through the heat shield from up top and it’s very difficult
You can probably go through the bottom ... remove heatshields and it should be doable. The noise is what gives it away though. If you get exhaust leak ticking noises on cold starts then you know the pass side is going to be cracked. The driver side cracking is less common.
You can probably go through the bottom ... remove heatshields and it should be doable. The noise is what gives it away though. If you get exhaust leak ticking noises on cold starts then you know the pass side is going to be cracked. The driver side cracking is less common.
10-24-18, 07:48 AM
