Uneven Brake Pad Wear
#16
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"Improper piston compression" WTF? There's a lot of foolishness in this thread. I have LOTS of brake experience, especially with the IS F and number of different pads, so first off, compressing the pistons is not rocket science. You can do it 20 different ways and it won't matter. The real issue is, did the brake fluid get serviced at the OEM recommended intervals? Pad material in the holes does not happen by accident. Either you drive and brake hard, or you ride your brakes constantly. There are no exceptions to this. If this car is babied as described, then you're riding your brakes. It's not possible to have pad material in the holes if you don't.
Turned rotors? Why? You think they should be junked sooner than later? Turning rotors does ONE thing and ONE thing only - puts money in the pocket of the idiot performing the task. There is no good reason to EVER turn a rotor. If it is so severely damaged turning it would help, you should just bite the bullet and replace it. I have swapped street and track pads back and forth MANY times and never had any issues other than recalibrating my foot after a track weekend.
If you really want to know the truth about how you are using the brakes, just look at the seals. If they are disintegrating, but you "baby" your car, you need to get your left foot off the brake pedal. I distinctly remember seeing a BMW owner who was clearly riding his brakes on I-5 southbound one night. The rotors were glowing a dull red at 85 mph and his brake lights were on the entire time. Don't be this guy. You will spend far too much money on brakes.
Finally, quit blaming the mechanic. He couldn't do anything wrong even if he tried. These are the simplest and easiest brake calipers to service on the planet.
Turned rotors? Why? You think they should be junked sooner than later? Turning rotors does ONE thing and ONE thing only - puts money in the pocket of the idiot performing the task. There is no good reason to EVER turn a rotor. If it is so severely damaged turning it would help, you should just bite the bullet and replace it. I have swapped street and track pads back and forth MANY times and never had any issues other than recalibrating my foot after a track weekend.
If you really want to know the truth about how you are using the brakes, just look at the seals. If they are disintegrating, but you "baby" your car, you need to get your left foot off the brake pedal. I distinctly remember seeing a BMW owner who was clearly riding his brakes on I-5 southbound one night. The rotors were glowing a dull red at 85 mph and his brake lights were on the entire time. Don't be this guy. You will spend far too much money on brakes.
Finally, quit blaming the mechanic. He couldn't do anything wrong even if he tried. These are the simplest and easiest brake calipers to service on the planet.
#18
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Something is definitely wrong but I need more info to try and figure out what might be causing it. Do you have photos of the inside pads as well? Are they worn unevenly in the same fashion? Tops worn much more than the bottom or vice versa?
The vertical lines are just pad imprints. It's usually cased by coming to a complete stop with brake pressure still applied while the pads are hot. You say you don't drive aggressively, if that is true then it looks like the pads are dragging and causing heat buildup even with your foot off the brake pedal.
Also it may be a silly question but I want to be sure you still have both of the the guide pins and the spring in the top of the calipers and everything is properly installed, correct?
-Matt M.
The vertical lines are just pad imprints. It's usually cased by coming to a complete stop with brake pressure still applied while the pads are hot. You say you don't drive aggressively, if that is true then it looks like the pads are dragging and causing heat buildup even with your foot off the brake pedal.
Also it may be a silly question but I want to be sure you still have both of the the guide pins and the spring in the top of the calipers and everything is properly installed, correct?
-Matt M.
#19
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"Improper piston compression" WTF? There's a lot of foolishness in this thread. I have LOTS of brake experience, especially with the IS F and number of different pads, so first off, compressing the pistons is not rocket science. You can do it 20 different ways and it won't matter. The real issue is, did the brake fluid get serviced at the OEM recommended intervals? Pad material in the holes does not happen by accident. Either you drive and brake hard, or you ride your brakes constantly. There are no exceptions to this. If this car is babied as described, then you're riding your brakes. It's not possible to have pad material in the holes if you don't.
Turned rotors? Why? You think they should be junked sooner than later? Turning rotors does ONE thing and ONE thing only - puts money in the pocket of the idiot performing the task. There is no good reason to EVER turn a rotor. If it is so severely damaged turning it would help, you should just bite the bullet and replace it. I have swapped street and track pads back and forth MANY times and never had any issues other than recalibrating my foot after a track weekend.
If you really want to know the truth about how you are using the brakes, just look at the seals. If they are disintegrating, but you "baby" your car, you need to get your left foot off the brake pedal. I distinctly remember seeing a BMW owner who was clearly riding his brakes on I-5 southbound one night. The rotors were glowing a dull red at 85 mph and his brake lights were on the entire time. Don't be this guy. You will spend far too much money on brakes.
Finally, quit blaming the mechanic. He couldn't do anything wrong even if he tried. These are the simplest and easiest brake calipers to service on the planet.
Turned rotors? Why? You think they should be junked sooner than later? Turning rotors does ONE thing and ONE thing only - puts money in the pocket of the idiot performing the task. There is no good reason to EVER turn a rotor. If it is so severely damaged turning it would help, you should just bite the bullet and replace it. I have swapped street and track pads back and forth MANY times and never had any issues other than recalibrating my foot after a track weekend.
If you really want to know the truth about how you are using the brakes, just look at the seals. If they are disintegrating, but you "baby" your car, you need to get your left foot off the brake pedal. I distinctly remember seeing a BMW owner who was clearly riding his brakes on I-5 southbound one night. The rotors were glowing a dull red at 85 mph and his brake lights were on the entire time. Don't be this guy. You will spend far too much money on brakes.
Finally, quit blaming the mechanic. He couldn't do anything wrong even if he tried. These are the simplest and easiest brake calipers to service on the planet.
#20
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"Improper piston compression" WTF? There's a lot of foolishness in this thread. I have LOTS of brake experience, especially with the IS F and number of different pads, so first off, compressing the pistons is not rocket science. You can do it 20 different ways and it won't matter. The real issue is, did the brake fluid get serviced at the OEM recommended intervals? Pad material in the holes does not happen by accident. Either you drive and brake hard, or you ride your brakes constantly. There are no exceptions to this. If this car is babied as described, then you're riding your brakes. It's not possible to have pad material in the holes if you don't.
Turned rotors? Why? You think they should be junked sooner than later? Turning rotors does ONE thing and ONE thing only - puts money in the pocket of the idiot performing the task. There is no good reason to EVER turn a rotor. If it is so severely damaged turning it would help, you should just bite the bullet and replace it. I have swapped street and track pads back and forth MANY times and never had any issues other than recalibrating my foot after a track weekend.
If you really want to know the truth about how you are using the brakes, just look at the seals. If they are disintegrating, but you "baby" your car, you need to get your left foot off the brake pedal. I distinctly remember seeing a BMW owner who was clearly riding his brakes on I-5 southbound one night. The rotors were glowing a dull red at 85 mph and his brake lights were on the entire time. Don't be this guy. You will spend far too much money on brakes.
Finally, quit blaming the mechanic. He couldn't do anything wrong even if he tried. These are the simplest and easiest brake calipers to service on the planet.
Turned rotors? Why? You think they should be junked sooner than later? Turning rotors does ONE thing and ONE thing only - puts money in the pocket of the idiot performing the task. There is no good reason to EVER turn a rotor. If it is so severely damaged turning it would help, you should just bite the bullet and replace it. I have swapped street and track pads back and forth MANY times and never had any issues other than recalibrating my foot after a track weekend.
If you really want to know the truth about how you are using the brakes, just look at the seals. If they are disintegrating, but you "baby" your car, you need to get your left foot off the brake pedal. I distinctly remember seeing a BMW owner who was clearly riding his brakes on I-5 southbound one night. The rotors were glowing a dull red at 85 mph and his brake lights were on the entire time. Don't be this guy. You will spend far too much money on brakes.
Finally, quit blaming the mechanic. He couldn't do anything wrong even if he tried. These are the simplest and easiest brake calipers to service on the planet.
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#21
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Silly question...
When you wash the car do you hose out the rotors thoroughly???
Even for daily driving... If you never do it, the holes will cake in with pad material.
I try do that every so often to keep the drilled rotors free of pad materials..
Joe Z
When you wash the car do you hose out the rotors thoroughly???
Even for daily driving... If you never do it, the holes will cake in with pad material.
I try do that every so often to keep the drilled rotors free of pad materials..
Joe Z
#23
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Hmm.. you may be right. I don't hose out my rotors when I wash the car.
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Deposits in rotors indicate to me extreme wear on the pad, but there is no way caked in rotors could in any way cause this type of wear. The pad deposits are a result of, not a cause of, the brake problem.
A million right ways to do something doesn't mean there aren't plenty of wrong ways to do something...
Easy to service or not, this owner put thousands of miles on the old brake pads and didn't experience any wear like this at all. The mechanic serviced the brakes, now they are wearing irregularly in a very short period of time. To me that makes it pretty clear that the mechanic did something wrong during installation or the pads themselves were the wrong size and are binding somewhere. The only two variables that changed from the proper wearing pads before to what he has now was a mechanic installing new StopTech pads.
Even if I am completely wrong about my diagnosis this owner does not ride his brakes or drive hard, so your theory does not make sense here. Simply put, if the wear was a result of driving style the old pads would exhibit similar wear.
Will have the wheels off within a couple hours here, hoping to investigate a bit and see if we can get to the bottom of it. Owner is running Motul 600 Dot 4 brake fluid with StopTech pads - I'm seeing if he can buy some OEM brake fluid and OEM brake pads to, at the very least, further hone in on where the problem is.
"Improper piston compression" WTF? There's a lot of foolishness in this thread. I have LOTS of brake experience, especially with the IS F and number of different pads, so first off, compressing the pistons is not rocket science. You can do it 20 different ways and it won't matter. The real issue is, did the brake fluid get serviced at the OEM recommended intervals? Pad material in the holes does not happen by accident. Either you drive and brake hard, or you ride your brakes constantly. There are no exceptions to this. If this car is babied as described, then you're riding your brakes. It's not possible to have pad material in the holes if you don't.
Turned rotors? Why? You think they should be junked sooner than later? Turning rotors does ONE thing and ONE thing only - puts money in the pocket of the idiot performing the task. There is no good reason to EVER turn a rotor. If it is so severely damaged turning it would help, you should just bite the bullet and replace it. I have swapped street and track pads back and forth MANY times and never had any issues other than recalibrating my foot after a track weekend.
If you really want to know the truth about how you are using the brakes, just look at the seals. If they are disintegrating, but you "baby" your car, you need to get your left foot off the brake pedal. I distinctly remember seeing a BMW owner who was clearly riding his brakes on I-5 southbound one night. The rotors were glowing a dull red at 85 mph and his brake lights were on the entire time. Don't be this guy. You will spend far too much money on brakes.
Finally, quit blaming the mechanic. He couldn't do anything wrong even if he tried. These are the simplest and easiest brake calipers to service on the planet.
Turned rotors? Why? You think they should be junked sooner than later? Turning rotors does ONE thing and ONE thing only - puts money in the pocket of the idiot performing the task. There is no good reason to EVER turn a rotor. If it is so severely damaged turning it would help, you should just bite the bullet and replace it. I have swapped street and track pads back and forth MANY times and never had any issues other than recalibrating my foot after a track weekend.
If you really want to know the truth about how you are using the brakes, just look at the seals. If they are disintegrating, but you "baby" your car, you need to get your left foot off the brake pedal. I distinctly remember seeing a BMW owner who was clearly riding his brakes on I-5 southbound one night. The rotors were glowing a dull red at 85 mph and his brake lights were on the entire time. Don't be this guy. You will spend far too much money on brakes.
Finally, quit blaming the mechanic. He couldn't do anything wrong even if he tried. These are the simplest and easiest brake calipers to service on the planet.
Easy to service or not, this owner put thousands of miles on the old brake pads and didn't experience any wear like this at all. The mechanic serviced the brakes, now they are wearing irregularly in a very short period of time. To me that makes it pretty clear that the mechanic did something wrong during installation or the pads themselves were the wrong size and are binding somewhere. The only two variables that changed from the proper wearing pads before to what he has now was a mechanic installing new StopTech pads.
Even if I am completely wrong about my diagnosis this owner does not ride his brakes or drive hard, so your theory does not make sense here. Simply put, if the wear was a result of driving style the old pads would exhibit similar wear.
Will have the wheels off within a couple hours here, hoping to investigate a bit and see if we can get to the bottom of it. Owner is running Motul 600 Dot 4 brake fluid with StopTech pads - I'm seeing if he can buy some OEM brake fluid and OEM brake pads to, at the very least, further hone in on where the problem is.
#26
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Long story short. There is nothing wrong with the brake pads, at the angle that we had looked at initially made it seem like as if they were wearing at a steep angle however that is not the case at all. Upon further inspection with my wheels off today (got new tires), the brake pads (StopTech) was just designed to be that shape to begin with. So all in all, everything is fine and I am relieved. Thank you to all who had chimed in and helped.
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#29
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Deposits in rotors indicate to me extreme wear on the pad, but there is no way caked in rotors could in any way cause this type of wear. The pad deposits are a result of, not a cause of, the brake problem.
A million right ways to do something doesn't mean there aren't plenty of wrong ways to do something...
Easy to service or not, this owner put thousands of miles on the old brake pads and didn't experience any wear like this at all. The mechanic serviced the brakes, now they are wearing irregularly in a very short period of time. To me that makes it pretty clear that the mechanic did something wrong during installation or the pads themselves were the wrong size and are binding somewhere. The only two variables that changed from the proper wearing pads before to what he has now was a mechanic installing new StopTech pads.
Even if I am completely wrong about my diagnosis this owner does not ride his brakes or drive hard, so your theory does not make sense here. Simply put, if the wear was a result of driving style the old pads would exhibit similar wear.
Will have the wheels off within a couple hours here, hoping to investigate a bit and see if we can get to the bottom of it. Owner is running Motul 600 Dot 4 brake fluid with StopTech pads - I'm seeing if he can buy some OEM brake fluid and OEM brake pads to, at the very least, further hone in on where the problem is.
A million right ways to do something doesn't mean there aren't plenty of wrong ways to do something...
Easy to service or not, this owner put thousands of miles on the old brake pads and didn't experience any wear like this at all. The mechanic serviced the brakes, now they are wearing irregularly in a very short period of time. To me that makes it pretty clear that the mechanic did something wrong during installation or the pads themselves were the wrong size and are binding somewhere. The only two variables that changed from the proper wearing pads before to what he has now was a mechanic installing new StopTech pads.
Even if I am completely wrong about my diagnosis this owner does not ride his brakes or drive hard, so your theory does not make sense here. Simply put, if the wear was a result of driving style the old pads would exhibit similar wear.
Will have the wheels off within a couple hours here, hoping to investigate a bit and see if we can get to the bottom of it. Owner is running Motul 600 Dot 4 brake fluid with StopTech pads - I'm seeing if he can buy some OEM brake fluid and OEM brake pads to, at the very least, further hone in on where the problem is.
It would be impossible to improperly compress the pistons. It would take a level of incompetence even the shadetree mechanic does not possess to incorrectly replace the pads, pins, or anti-rattle springs. Absolute worst case would be not driving the pins all the way in, which would not affect wear, but would definitely cause some grief if both pins dropped out.
I have had uneven wear, but it was top to bottom, not end to end. Both are possible, but these brake calipers are designed to avoid the end to end problem, and my worn out pads from track use confirm they do not wear pads unevenly from end to end.