Freakin' smell when wot.. Solved..
#16
When you have your MVAC system on its fresh air setting air needs to escape somewhere or it would be useless and you'd probably end up messing up the system. You'd essentially be trying to pressurize the cabin if there was no place for the incoming air to escape to which means your fan would be trying to move a lower pressure to a higher pressure. Granted there are plenty of other places for air to escape like around the door handles/tweeters.
When you need to dehumidify in the winter let us know if it still works or not. That will be the time when covering up fresh air or pass-throughs would cause the most issues. You bring in cold air with a much lower absolute humidity and then heat it up (sometimes passing it over your cold evaporator coil first to remove even more moisture depending on car) making it significantly dryer. The moisture then easily evaporates with a much lower relative humidity. If there not enough air being brought in you may see issues with moisture removal performance.
When you need to dehumidify in the winter let us know if it still works or not. That will be the time when covering up fresh air or pass-throughs would cause the most issues. You bring in cold air with a much lower absolute humidity and then heat it up (sometimes passing it over your cold evaporator coil first to remove even more moisture depending on car) making it significantly dryer. The moisture then easily evaporates with a much lower relative humidity. If there not enough air being brought in you may see issues with moisture removal performance.
Last edited by Bigjon3475; 04-28-16 at 03:32 PM.
#18
When you have your MVAC system on its fresh air setting air needs to escape somewhere or it would be useless and you'd probably end up messing up the system. You'd essentially be trying to pressurize the cabin if there was no place for the incoming air to escape to which means your fan would be trying to move a lower pressure to a higher pressure. Granted there are plenty of other places for air to escape like around the door handles/tweeters.
When you need to dehumidify in the winter let us know if it still works or not. That will be the time when covering up fresh air or pass-throughs would cause the most issues. You bring in cold air with a much lower absolute humidity and then heat it up (sometimes passing it over your cold evaporator coil first to remove even more moisture depending on car) making it significantly dryer. The moisture then easily evaporates with a much lower relative humidity. If there not enough air being brought in you may see issues with moisture removal performance.
When you need to dehumidify in the winter let us know if it still works or not. That will be the time when covering up fresh air or pass-throughs would cause the most issues. You bring in cold air with a much lower absolute humidity and then heat it up (sometimes passing it over your cold evaporator coil first to remove even more moisture depending on car) making it significantly dryer. The moisture then easily evaporates with a much lower relative humidity. If there not enough air being brought in you may see issues with moisture removal performance.
#19
Again, our cabin is not a completely sealed area even with everything closed, so i think pressurization in the cabin exists very minimal to do some major / minor damage if any, air will escape somewhere.. Also i live in san diego, i don't really "dehumidify".. So far the fix has worked for me.. I have opened up the f where before i would get that smell from the rear but now is non-existent.. Other than sealing those flaps, i don't see any other solution presented.. As always ymmv..
If it's working for you that's awesome. I was just asking for feedback.
#20
Okay, well I wasn't referring to the car blowing up. I'm talking about mechanical performance. As far as dehumidification is concerned SD is the exception to the rule. Most of the rest of us do have to remove condensation off the windows to be able to drive. At least at certain times of the year.
If it's working for you that's awesome. I was just asking for feedback.
If it's working for you that's awesome. I was just asking for feedback.
#21
You need to tape up the flap that is found on each end rear side of your car.. This thing is very close to the exhaust which suggest fumes coming in from there..
Attachment 386014
You can move the wires to gain better access
This is what you need to remove
Attachment 386015
Freaking flap is almost gone
Attachment 386016
Cover it with tape.. Color doesn't matter since it wont be seen anyway.. Also make sure to give a little extra on each end of the tape to go past the corners.. It will serve as an extra hold since it will be between the flap device and the body frame..
Attachment 386017
Inside..<br/>
Attachment 386018
And outside.. Again dont worry about the color of tape you use.. Nobody can see it
Here it is back after tape install
Attachment 386019
I should point out that the drivers side is easy to remove since there is enough space.. Just push the two clips that hold it, push the thing out little bit and pull it back in or you can just push the whole thing and it will drop on the side of the fender.. The passenger side is a little bit tricky since the amp is blocking the way.. To reinstall just push it back from outside the body frame.. There is enough space to work with but you will be lying on the ground.. Anyway did a quick run and PRESTO! No more freaking fart smell.. I figured the smell has to come from somewhere and that is the only thing i can think off... I don't think it comes from the front since most of the smell comes fron the rear.. YMMV.. Good luck
Attachment 386014
You can move the wires to gain better access
This is what you need to remove
Attachment 386015
Freaking flap is almost gone
Attachment 386016
Cover it with tape.. Color doesn't matter since it wont be seen anyway.. Also make sure to give a little extra on each end of the tape to go past the corners.. It will serve as an extra hold since it will be between the flap device and the body frame..
Attachment 386017
Inside..<br/>
Attachment 386018
And outside.. Again dont worry about the color of tape you use.. Nobody can see it
Here it is back after tape install
Attachment 386019
I should point out that the drivers side is easy to remove since there is enough space.. Just push the two clips that hold it, push the thing out little bit and pull it back in or you can just push the whole thing and it will drop on the side of the fender.. The passenger side is a little bit tricky since the amp is blocking the way.. To reinstall just push it back from outside the body frame.. There is enough space to work with but you will be lying on the ground.. Anyway did a quick run and PRESTO! No more freaking fart smell.. I figured the smell has to come from somewhere and that is the only thing i can think off... I don't think it comes from the front since most of the smell comes fron the rear.. YMMV.. Good luck
#22
You need to tape up the flap that is found on each end rear side of your car.. This thing is very close to the exhaust which suggest fumes coming in from there..
Attachment 386014
You can move the wires to gain better access
This is what you need to remove
Attachment 386015
Freaking flap is almost gone
Attachment 386016
Cover it with tape.. Color doesn't matter since it wont be seen anyway.. Also make sure to give a little extra on each end of the tape to go past the corners.. It will serve as an extra hold since it will be between the flap device and the body frame..
Attachment 386017
Inside..<br/>
Attachment 386018
And outside.. Again dont worry about the color of tape you use.. Nobody can see it
Here it is back after tape install
Attachment 386019
I should point out that the drivers side is easy to remove since there is enough space.. Just push the two clips that hold it, push the thing out little bit and pull it back in or you can just push the whole thing and it will drop on the side of the fender.. The passenger side is a little bit tricky since the amp is blocking the way.. To reinstall just push it back from outside the body frame.. There is enough space to work with but you will be lying on the ground.. Anyway did a quick run and PRESTO! No more freaking fart smell.. I figured the smell has to come from somewhere and that is the only thing i can think off... I don't think it comes from the front since most of the smell comes fron the rear.. YMMV.. Good luck
Attachment 386014
You can move the wires to gain better access
This is what you need to remove
Attachment 386015
Freaking flap is almost gone
Attachment 386016
Cover it with tape.. Color doesn't matter since it wont be seen anyway.. Also make sure to give a little extra on each end of the tape to go past the corners.. It will serve as an extra hold since it will be between the flap device and the body frame..
Attachment 386017
Inside..<br/>
Attachment 386018
And outside.. Again dont worry about the color of tape you use.. Nobody can see it
Here it is back after tape install
Attachment 386019
I should point out that the drivers side is easy to remove since there is enough space.. Just push the two clips that hold it, push the thing out little bit and pull it back in or you can just push the whole thing and it will drop on the side of the fender.. The passenger side is a little bit tricky since the amp is blocking the way.. To reinstall just push it back from outside the body frame.. There is enough space to work with but you will be lying on the ground.. Anyway did a quick run and PRESTO! No more freaking fart smell.. I figured the smell has to come from somewhere and that is the only thing i can think off... I don't think it comes from the front since most of the smell comes fron the rear.. YMMV.. Good luck
#24
trunk vent flap was not removed permanently.. it was sealed and reinstalled so no exhuast smell can come in..
#25
#27
also for those that want to keep the flap as it is, check that it is not damaged.. mine has become brittle and is falling into pieces.. if you need new vent ducts ( that's the technical name for it) the part number is 6293012160.. stealership i called is asking $67.. online it sell for $33.
http://www.oemautopartsandaccessorie...fda5abfe3bccd/
http://www.oemautopartsandaccessorie...fda5abfe3bccd/
#29
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 13,441
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From: Under an IS F since 2008
They are called "Roof Side Ventilators" in the parts book
Body: 61-02: ROOF SIDE VENTILATOR
QUARTER VENT, DUCT ASSY, LH = 62930-12160
QUARTER VENT, DUCT ASSY, RH = 62930-12160
I wouldn't tape them up or seal them.. If they aren't working anymore, replace them with new ones..
If you have SULFUR / Exhaust smell entering the cabin at WOT.. Then something else might be the problem
Joe Z
Body: 61-02: ROOF SIDE VENTILATOR
QUARTER VENT, DUCT ASSY, LH = 62930-12160
QUARTER VENT, DUCT ASSY, RH = 62930-12160
I wouldn't tape them up or seal them.. If they aren't working anymore, replace them with new ones..
If you have SULFUR / Exhaust smell entering the cabin at WOT.. Then something else might be the problem
Joe Z
#30
btw i did change my cabin air filter but smell was still there..
Last edited by av8or; 04-29-16 at 08:04 PM.