rselby

So now that we can get our cars tuned, is these anything that's shows up in the ECU that this button does anything? ...Ive heard that it signals the ECU the car is at WOT( you really gotta push it hard to feel the button ) don't really care for it myself, and would like a function to disable it and have WOT at or just before touching it

liquidtek

I think I saw in techstream that it has a enabled y/n table. not sure if there's a way to modify it thru tuning.

redcrxsi

The button under the peddle doesn't have anything to do with the fully opening the throttle. It sends a signal to have the transmission downshift to the lowest possible gear for the fastest acceleration.

At least that's my understanding.

Eedo123

This is from lobuxracer , and here is the link to the thread , there are pics in there too https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...s-pedal-2.html

"So back on topic - I've always hated the force I needed to apply to get the kick down switch to work, so I decided (inspired by this thread) to solve the problem tonight.

Removing the switch is a bit of a pain, but not too bad. Unfortunately, if you want to remove the switch, you either need to break a small piece of polystyrene foam or remove the entire carpet. I opted for breaking the foam piece.

Once you have the switch out, the observant student will see where the two releases are on either side of the switch. Push them in with a small screwdriver and the switch assembly can be carefully pulled out of the metal bracket which holds it securely in the car.

Next, take the same small screwdriver and release the three catches at the bottom of the switch. This will expose the main spring and the center rod in the switch. Remove the circlip from the center rod and carefully pull out the top of the switch.

Now the (sort of) tricky part. Push the center of the switch assembly slowly towards the end where you removed the cap. There is a LOT of very sticky grease in this thing, so it will take a bit of pushing. If you push too fast, four ball bearings will fly out of the assembly and do their best to disappear (as all ball bearings do when released from captivity). If you are careful, you'll get all four of them because the grease is very sticky (did I mention the grease is VERY sticky?). Inside the center body are two springs which look like ball point pen springs. They are responsible for the initial stickiness you feel when you press the gas to the floor because they're the detent *****. I cut about 1/8" off both of these springs then put the ***** back in place to reduce the amount of effort I need to use to get the switch working. Put the circlip back on the center post after installing the top of the switch.

Before installing the main spring, cut one full revolution off of it. This does make the spring stiffer, but since we're not extending the free length of the spring, we're reducing preload AND stiffening the spring a little. Both actually work in our favor here. Now install the bottom cap, and put the assembly back in the metal bracket and install in the car.

I can just barely feel the switch engage now. It's EXACTLY how I think it should have been from Lexus. Just enough feedback to know you're on it, but not requiring an extra push just to get the gas to the floor.

It feels better to me, AND it only cost me about a half an hour.

NO, I didn't take pictures. This isn't a mod for someone who barely knows the difference between a common and a phillips. Anyone who's been working on stuff like this will be able to easily see what I did once they have the switch out, and they'll be able to make the changes I described without permanently ruining an expensive part.

FWIW, if the switch goes permanently closed, the ECM will ignore the switch, so shorting it out is a bad thing."