Thanks @lobuxracer

For the separator case (12215-38020, I verified # with dealer parts dept this morning), I saw @illwillem 's gnarly cutaway photos and at ~$40 for a new one, I figured it was an inexpensive elective replacement after 118k miles.

I suspect foam under intake manifold also serves as thermal insulation between valley plate and intake manifold (to keep intake charge cold), maybe? A small chunk of foam broke off the rear of mine, but new parts appear to be on national backorder, so original parts are going back in. Here are the part numbers for future reference:
12601-38030 (large central piece)
12604-38010 (small front piece)
12607-38020 (small rear piece)

 

Apologies for resurrecting this post....

So was trying to replace the PCV hose and no-dice, just not enough space to "angle" the tools to remove the PCV hose itself......

When looking at the hose, there's a lot of oil around the PCV valve (part number 12204-38020) itself, so was going to replace the PCV valve + hose....

Got all the tools as listed in this related topic:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post11603167

Called around and all shops stated the intake manifold needed to be removed, which drives the "shop costs" up exponentially, just to replace $30 in parts......
Have google'd and youtube'd PCV Valve replacements on the ISF and only found LS460/GX "tutorials" which don't seem to apply....

Was wondering if anyone has tips or pointers on how to remove and replace the PVC Valve + Hose (without removing the manifold) since there's really no space to get any tools into that area.

Thanks for anyone's help......

 

I was able to get my tools in the space. It's not easy, and you'll need the thinnest wall socket you can get for this.

TBH, you could just remove the nuts and bolts on the manifold, lift it 10mm or so and get a lot more room to work.

 

Thanks again lobux! So a thin walled 22m socket in either 3/8 or 1/2, but is there a restriction on how long the socket should be?

 

I used a 22mm 1/2" drive with a 3/8" adapter and a wobble extension to get it out. Non-wobble was easier to install. My socket is 38mm tall, and I found it easier to put the socket in place with a pair of stork pliers, then connect the extension(s). I didn't get full insertion on the extension, but it doesn't matter. The valve isn't super tight to remove and definitely not needed to install. Do not try to install the valve with the socket, instead, put a hose on the valve, put it in place, spin it in as far as you can with the hose, then stuff the socket in place and tighten.

FWIW, this is what I mean by stork pliers: https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...ers-57790.html

 

Thanks again lobux, will tackle the PCV valve after digging in the toolbox and found a 22mm Craftsman 1/2 inch socket from at least 20 years ago…..

 

That's the identical twin to the one I used. Probably 15 years older though.

 

Thanks again lobux for the pointers in "replacing the PCV Valve + the PCV hose without removing the intake manifold."

Got it done within 60min and that's including fishing out the old PCV valve that "dropped" further into the engine bay, after unscrewing it.

Tested the original PCV valve with 138,000 miles, and it was still good without cleaning it: rattled + blew into the valve on one end and no air would come out.

For those of us with 100k+ miles, would highly recommend to replace this hose as well, as this one literally cracked in half when pulling it off for more clearance to get to the PCV hose/valve.
23829-38050 Fuel Vapor Feed Hose
96132-51300 2x clips


The toughest part was actually trying to position the hose clamp itself, back onto the PCV valve end, since there's really hardly any space to open the long reach pliers to open and move the clamp onto the valve stem itself.... Hardly any torque or movement can be applied to "move the hose clamp onto the PCV Valve stem" so just left it as is.... tugged on the PCV hose on the PCV valve end, and it doesn't seem like it'll move out of position anyway..... Update, definitely need the 45 degree stork pliers from harbor freight... finally got the PCV hose clamp moved into position on the PCV valve end....

 

The stork pliers are IMHO, essential to dealing with the factory clamps. They grab, hold, and move when others just can't get the job done.