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A quick question, did you guys replace the 10X ring gear bolts or just reuse? Any DIY tricks for holding it during the final torque steps?
TIA
Always replace those bolts, they are "torque to yield" bolts. You'll need a proper fixture, maybe a bench vise. Torquing to the initial spec is easy, turning to 60-90 degrees is what's tough to do. I made a mark on each bolt after they were all torqued to the initial torque, I forgot, is it 43 ft/lb? and then used impact wrench to turn them to full yield. Put red loctite on the threads and under the head flange, it will keep the bolt heads from binding and will be easy to turn to 60-90 degrees with an impact wrench.
Always replace those bolts, they are "torque to yield" bolts. You'll need a proper fixture, maybe a bench vise. Torquing to the initial spec is easy, turning to 60-90 degrees is what's tough to do. I made a mark on each bolt after they were all torqued to the initial torque, I forgot, is it 43 ft/lb? and then used impact wrench to turn them to full yield. Put red loctite on the threads and under the head flange, it will keep the bolt heads from binding and will be easy to turn to 60-90 degrees with an impact wrench.
Thanks for the quick reply. Much appreciated.
The open diff was easy to hold with 2X 2x4" in a vice, this has no flat spots making a need for spanner off the bolt heads or something like that? But an impact will make it easier for certain. Although it does unsettle me slightly. Copy that I'll get some new bolts on order.
I couldn't find a cross-reference for the loctite, I have blue 242 rated to 300 deg, but I'm not sure of its long term fluid resilience?
Did you freeze the spool or heat the ring gear? If freezing, is that enough compared to heating the gear to 212°F ? The gear came off pretty easy so there is that.
PS I asked the bolt question as the manual says the 5 bolts securing the diff in the car are also one time use. I'm guessing because of the thread lock compound?
PS I asked the bolt question as the manual says the 5 bolts securing the diff in the car are also one time use. I'm guessing because of the thread lock compound?
definitely use red loctite. I reused the 2 front diff bolts. My rear diff poly bushings came with new bolts so those are what I used.
I didn't do any of this. I reused the front bolts, installed the bolts that came with the poly rear bushings, and didn't loctite anything. Everything got torqued to spec. Been running this way for more than 50k miles and only had a problem because I didn't get the 90 durometer rear mounts the first time. None of these are torque to yield except the ring gear bolts. I did replace those, but there's an easy way to check those kinds of bolts. Measure a new one. Measure a used one. If the used one is longer than the new one, it's toast. Same thing with rod bolts - measure unloaded, and measure with full torque. They should be stretched at full torque and the actual length under load tells you where you are, but it's all based on fastener diameter and static length.
Which poly parts did you guys install? Mine Figs, came with spacers for the bolts. The bushings have no flange so they push through from either direction. Adding to that, the front mounts are also slotted at the frame about 20 to 25mm so the diff can accidentally be turned or slid fore / aft from its original location.
Which poly parts did you guys install? Mine Figs, came with spacers for the bolts. The bushings have no flange so they push through from either direction. Adding to that, the front mounts are also slotted at the frame about 20 to 25mm so the diff can accidentally be turned or slid fore / aft from its original location.
Figs front and rear bushings. Snug up the driveshaft coupler nuts/bolts front and rear before torquing the front diff bolts.
Figs front and rear bushings. Snug up the driveshaft coupler nuts/bolts front and rear before torquing the front diff bolts.
That's all good but I dropped the carrier for ease of dropping/inserting the the drive shaft into the pinion. All is well.
Thing is, Figs could have done a better job locating the diff. And not that I plan to ***-end an immovable object at 120mph, but the OEM flange on the bushing serves a couple of purposes.
Thing is, Figs could have done a better job locating the diff. And not that I plan to ***-end an immovable object at 120mph, but the OEM flange on the bushing serves a couple of purposes.
I run these bushings. Multiple 1.7x 60fts and passes around 128mph.
If you manage to destroy the figs bushings maybe you're beating the living snot out of it.
All this time I've been mentally prepping to grind the case to fit the LSD and guess what, the OS-Giken slid right into the case without having to relieve or open the case up near the bearing cups. Expecting I'd be taking the spool in and out a few times, I printed some bearings, so I didn't ding up the real ones.
I'm guessing the 350 having a fewer clutches (8 total), perhaps it makes it smaller allowing it to fit here unless the 2011 up case is actually more accommodating?
PS - it was 36F in the garage and the ring gear slid only with minimal interference so I tossed a couple bolts in it and slid it in the case. Now to take it apart, clean it and do it for real. And to your point, holding the ring while putting the final turn on them bolts seems unfriendly and I'm reluctant to use the impact on those bolts.
Does someone have a picture of the IS-F OS-G, I'm curious what is different since this rear diff housing has so many applications.
All this time I've been mentally prepping to grind the case to fit the LSD and guess what, the OS-Giken slid right into the case without having to relieve or open the case up near the bearing cups. Expecting I'd be taking the spool in and out a few times, I printed some bearings, so I didn't ding up the real ones.
I'm guessing the 350 having a fewer clutches (8 total), perhaps it makes it smaller allowing it to fit here unless the 2011 up case is actually more accommodating?
PS - it was 36F in the garage and the ring gear slid only with minimal interference so I tossed a couple bolts in it and slid it in the case. Now to take it apart, clean it and do it for real. And to your point, holding the ring while putting the final turn on them bolts seems unfriendly and I'm reluctant to use the impact on those bolts.
Does someone have a picture of the IS-F OS-G, I'm curious what is different since this rear diff housing has so many applications.
The later housings don’t need to be opened up.
Here’s an IS F OS giken TCD on a 2014 IS F housing. Don’t mind the red arrows and circles, I had to send that picture to someone asking what a bearing race is.
Just got my '08 IS-F and looking to add the LSD ASAP and also want the 3.13 gears. I'm looking at options and think I have it narrowed down to 2 different options:
07-15-22, 09:26 AM
