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Just got my '08 IS-F and looking to add the LSD ASAP and also want the 3.13 gears. I'm looking at options and think I have it narrowed down to 2 different options:
Part # 41110-24270 (incorrectly listed as 2014-2020 Lexus Differential Assembly)
Cost is $3,599.91 new but would be almost a direct swap with minimal labor costs
Not likely to find a wrecked 2020-2021 RC-F Differential anytime soon
2. Add OS Giken & 3.13 gears to existing '08 open diff.
Part # 41201-59285 for the 3.13 gear set
Cost is $2450 OS Giken Diff. + $822 gear set = $3272 + installation
Would re-use my '08 Diff which should be in good condition with only 20k miles on it
Am I missing anything? I'm looking to do a couple track events per year and some 1/4 mile events so I think either solution would be ok for me. Does the OS Giken diff have any gear whine or negatives to it?
Here's an alternate strategy - buy a used diff on eBay for $200 + $100 shipping. It will be an open diff unit with the correct 3.13 gearing. Transfer the guts of the used diff minus the spool, buy a Giken spool, and have the full Monty for cheap. You could even put your pieces in the old housing and sell it for $200 on eBay.
These models all have a 3.13 ratio, but not sure which of them have a Torsen for sure:
Here's an alternate strategy - buy a used diff on eBay for $200 + $100 shipping. It will be an open diff unit with the correct 3.13 gearing. Transfer the guts of the used diff minus the spool, buy a Giken spool, and have the full Monty for cheap. You could even put your pieces in the old housing and sell it for $200 on eBay.
These models all have a 3.13 ratio, but not sure which of them have a Torsen for sure:
Just ordered a used 41110-24270 from an RC350 F-sport w/ 3.133 and a Torsen. Should be direct bolt in, now looking at if there are bushings or other hardware that should be replaced when doing the swap.
Just ordered a used 41110-24270 from an RC350 F-sport w/ 3.133 and a Torsen. Should be direct bolt in, now looking at if there are bushings or other hardware that should be replaced when doing the swap.
Figs Eng’g. sells front and rear diff bushings if you want to upgrade to poly bushings. If you decide to keep the stock rear bushings, the driver’s side one will need to be rotated 90 degrees, unless you swap in the cover from your original diff.
Figs Eng’g. sells front and rear diff bushings if you want to upgrade to poly bushings. If you decide to keep the stock rear bushings, the driver’s side one will need to be rotated 90 degrees, unless you swap in the cover from your original diff.
Found from a previous post, here are the stock part #'s, looks like 2 of the differential case bearings are needed so there is a total of 4 bearings. If you replace the pinion bearings, you must replace the pinion flange nut and crush sleeve.
There are 2 types of Figs rear diff install kits. One is for high hp (which is easy to find on their website) and they have another kit (better for street or lower hp cars?) that I cannot seem to find on their website?
Found from a previous post, here are the stock part #'s, looks like 2 of the differential case bearings are needed so there is a total of 4 bearings. If you replace the pinion bearings, you must replace the pinion flange nut and crush sleeve.
There are 2 types of Figs rear diff install kits. One is for high hp (which is easy to find on their website) and they have another kit (better for street or lower hp cars?) that I cannot seem to find on their website?
So you are replacing all bearings then? What’s the mileage on the used diff? I guess it’s a good idea, but I thought you bought it so it’s just a straight swap. There’s 2 side bearings and then the pinion. I believe the non high HP bushings are discontinued, you want the high HP version anyway.
So you are replacing all bearings then? What’s the mileage on the used diff? I guess it’s a good idea, but I thought you bought it so it’s just a straight swap. There’s 2 side bearings and then the pinion. I believe the non high HP bushings are discontinued, you want the high HP version anyway.
Was not planning to replace bearings except as needed. Looks like one needs to be rotated?
I finished the OS-G install into my OEM 2013 4.083 housing. Getting the second snap rings in was a bit of a challenge but it did go in fully with punch and hammer. Total dry rotation torque was 16 in/lbs with used pinion bearings and seal.
Pattern is good, although both power and coast side favor the middle/toe side and the backlash was in spec but low.
If this video loads, it seems the left side bearing makes this tick sound while spun by hand. It doesn't matter the direction. The bearings were never hammered on to get the keepers in...
Anyone have any thoughts?? It makes a tick tick tick tick tick sound. Run it or attempt to pull it apart again?
mp4 won't load. Let me try and convert it somehow.
I finished the OS-G install into my OEM 2013 4.083 housing. Getting the second snap rings in was a bit of a challenge but it did go in fully with punch and hammer. Total dry rotation torque was 16 in/lbs with used pinion bearings and seal.
Pattern is good, although both power and coast side favor the middle/toe side and the backlash was in spec but low.
If this video loads, it seems the left side bearing makes this tick sound while spun by hand. It doesn't matter the direction. The bearings were never hammered on to get the keepers in...
Anyone have any thoughts?? It makes a tick tick tick tick tick sound. Run it or attempt to pull it apart again?
mp4 won't load. Let me try and convert it somehow.
I'd at least inspect it to find out why it's ticking. In the end. I'd put new bearings/race then make sure they all spin nicely without abnormal noise.
I'd at least inspect it to find out why it's ticking. In the end. I'd put new bearings/race then make sure they all spin nicely without abnormal noise.
Round #2:
They are/were brand new bearings on the carrier (used, never removed pinion parts). I did use some all-thread from one side of the case to the other to move the spring clip to the other side to get the opposing clip in. IMO, the torque applied was not something capable of bearing damage.
I converted this from MP4 to MOV. Turn up the audio up as the video is pointless. The pinion is being spun by hand at a slow rate.
Anyone heard a sound like this from a bearing? Bearing has oil as does the ring & pinion.
Is there gear lube on the gears? If so, try cleaning it off and check again while gears are dry. Obviously, you can't reach the pinion so just clean each ring tooth and go around a couple times.
12-28-22, 12:22 PM
