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Sounds more like gear clash than bearing. Did you put a stethoscope on the bearing to determine it was actually the source?
I did not, I'll need an extra hand to complete listening exercise.
Originally Posted by JT2MA71
Is there gear lube on the gears? If so, try cleaning it off and check again while gears are dry. Obviously, you can't reach the pinion so just clean each ring tooth and go around a couple times.
Your thinking here is to see if oil removal changes the sound? I'm on board with that.
Maybe Im making an assumption but I've ball bearings make this sound but never a tapered roller bearing. And for them, adding lubricant made ball drop tink tink tink sound go away.
I'll give it a shot. It all seems odd in that the only change measurable from before tear down to now is the preload induced by new bearings. Everything else returned to As Found setup.
IIRK, the ATS Carbon LSD will also require multiple rebuild kits throughout the life of the differential. The cost of the kit plus the overhauls will add to the overall ownership cost of the unit. The OS Giken only requires interval fluid changes every 30k and no rebuilds.
I can't speak for the performance capabilities of the ATS Carbon LSD but in regards to the OS Giken differential, both the IS350 and IS-F are among the lucky few models which sport the full set of 28 clutch plates inside the LSD as well as the 3rd generation TCD clutch plates which allow for an even more progressive lock-up compared to the original Super Lock LSD. Much like a Torque Vectoring differential, the OS Giken TCD will literally pull you through every corner using the rear outer wheel and drastically changes how you would normally approach your driving line. As others have quoted on the internet: “The OS Giken is a cheat code. Absolutely unreal what you can do with a rear end with it”.
Red, I think the US Spec got shorted (at least the 350 and 99% sure the IS-F) as mine only has 16 total plates and with them both sharing a nearly identical housings, there is a physical limitation on clutches that can fit.
Red, I think the US Spec got shorted (at least the 350 and 99% sure the IS-F) as mine only has 16 total plates and with them both sharing a nearly identical housings, there is a physical limitation on clutches that can fit.
US Spec 350
Still good info... thanks for sharing.
Yeah, I found out years later that the IS350 TCD unit didn't include the full 28 clutch plates which was odd as the OS Giken rep ensured me that it did.
Coming full circle, I've had the OS Giken TCD LSD on my IS350 for exactly 10 years now and it's still as solid of a diff as it was a decade ago. No clunks, grinding, or unexpected lockups with the TCD. Just change the fluids every 30k-50k miles and that's all the maintenance required.
...Getting the second snap rings in was a bit of a challenge but it did go in fully with punch and hammer...
Just noticed this (again) and since you said you had a problem, I will say one thing very clearly. NEVER HIT ANY BEARING WITH A HAMMER! They're not made for shock loads like that and you can dent the ***** (needles) or crack the outer races pretty easily with a hammer and punch. The manual tells you to stretch the case with their special tool, but in this case you would have been way ahead to press the snap ring in instead of hitting it with a hammer. Now, with the noise you heard, the bearings are suspect. I froze my spool over night and the snap rings went in like nothing, but I also had someone with way more experience rebuilding drive components helping me.
Good news....
Not a problem. Listened with a stethoscope and that was inconclusive as the cast iron absorbs the sound not transmitting it at that RPM. Using sound tube on the stethoscope made it sound like gear clash but it was so faint. Again, inconclusive but it did hint to the noise being that of gear contact or pinion bearing.
I cleaned the ring gear of oil, it changed the feel of the mesh but not the sound, so I oiled the ring gear up and cleaned the side bearings one at a time removing the oil, no change, so I oiled them. Noise is still there.
Next, I oiled the pinion bearings - walla! Noise is gone!!! Dryish bearings can make noise! I suspected the wrong one! Time to seal it up!
PS I never hit the bearings. The snapring wouldn't fully seat so I used a punch to seat it driving it 90° the opposite direction of bearing install. All this after seeing the preload, backlash and contact were all good.
For anyone else doing this, be sure to install the right snapring first to minimize gear clash.
Leaving this here and maybe it helps someone else. Per Figs recommendation when I bought the OS-Giken TCD, the suggested break in fluid was Amsoil 75W-90 Severe Duty Synthetic.
This differential wasn't so happy with that lubrication and made popping sounds when turning sharp at low speeds (parking lot) as well as sounding like I'm cutting metal on a lathe (whirrrr whirr whirrrr). While under power, no such noises and performance is good.
At 60 miles of light use I added Amsoil Slip Lock, a four once squeeze tube and in the next 20 miles all noises, clunks and popping completely went away.
For a sedan, the addition of the TCD really changes how the car rounds the corners and you can certainly apply a lot more power before unsettling the car or having the traction nannies kick in (350 has an IS-F EPS ECU). I would recommend the OS-G LSD!
Leaving this here and maybe it helps someone else. Per Figs recommendation when I bought the OS-Giken TCD, the suggested break in fluid was Amsoil 75W-90 Severe Duty Synthetic.
This differential wasn't so happy with that lubrication and made popping sounds when turning sharp at low speeds (parking lot) as well as sounding like I'm cutting metal on a lathe (whirrrr whirr whirrrr). While under power, no such noises and performance is good.
At 60 miles of light use I added Amsoil Slip Lock, a four once squeeze tube and in the next 20 miles all noises, clunks and popping completely went away.
For a sedan, the addition of the TCD really changes how the car rounds the corners and you can certainly apply a lot more power before unsettling the car or having the traction nannies kick in (350 has an IS-F EPS ECU). I would recommend the OS-G LSD!
I went with OS-250R for break-in on two different TCD’s. No chattering, no noise. Drained and refilled with the same oil after 1500 miles.
I went with OS-250R for break-in on two different TCD’s. No chattering, no noise. Drained and refilled with the same oil after 1500 miles.
Thanks.
I trust Amsoil products but this unit wasn't happy until I added the Slip Lock ingredient.
You ever check the temps on these? On a 95F day the diff hit 190°F with roughly 50 miles on it. It has since dropped to 130F. I don't know if that was the addition of slip lock or just breaking it in?
This diff always ran at 100 - 105F before bearings and LSD. 25 degrees higher seems pretty acceptable at the moment.
Thanks.
I trust Amsoil products but this unit wasn't happy until I added the Slip Lock ingredient.
You ever check the temps on these? On a 95F day the diff hit 190°F with roughly 50 miles on it. It has since dropped to 130F. I don't know if that was the addition of slip lock or just breaking it in?
This diff always ran at 100 - 105F before bearings and LSD. 25 degrees higher seems pretty acceptable at the moment.
Probably the friction created by all the clutch discs contributing to the added heat. That’s why I use the OS-250R, it’s made specifically for the OS TCD. I trust Amsoil as well, I use it on all my cars except the diff on the IS F.
On my '97 Supra Turbo I put the TRD mechanical diff to replace the factory diff. Every fluid I used even with friction modifier was awful. The car would chatter at every low speed turn and was not terribly predictable on when it might lockup. It felt like someone shot it in the leg and it was dragging it behind. Per Dusty @ MVP Motorports near Dallas/Ft. Worth I did the OS-250R fluid as he used it on his car. He said that would fix the issue and if it didn't something is wrong with my diff. I put it in (very slowly as it is thick!) and the problem immediately fixed itself. The diff did not chatter and the lockup was predictable. It made the car fun to drive again.
Probably the friction created by all the clutch discs contributing to the added heat. That’s why I use the OS-250R, it’s made specifically for the OS TCD. I trust Amsoil as well, I use it on all my cars except the diff on the IS F.
After a freeway drive of 30 miles and some canyon twists it dropped to 131F so I think that was maiy new bearings doing there thing?
Originally Posted by Bechtold
On my '97 Supra Turbo I put the TRD mechanical diff to replace the factory diff. Every fluid I used even with friction modifier was awful. The car would chatter at every low speed turn and was not terribly predictable on when it might lockup. It felt like someone shot it in the leg and it was dragging it behind. Per Dusty @ MVP Motorports near Dallas/Ft. Worth I did the OS-250R fluid as he used it on his car. He said that would fix the issue and if it didn't something is wrong with my diff. I put it in (very slowly as it is thick!) and the problem immediately fixed itself. The diff did not chatter and the lockup was predictable. It made the car fun to drive again.
Thanks guys! It sounds like I should bite the bullet and buy the over priced OS-G stuff.
I can relate to that "made the car fun again" as I quickly questioning my choices when all that ruckus started back there! Haha
After a freeway drive of 30 miles and some canyon twists it dropped to 131F so I think that was maiy new bearings doing there thing?
Thanks guys! It sounds like I should bite the bullet and buy the over priced OS-G stuff.
I can relate to that "made the car fun again" as I quickly questioning my choices when all that ruckus started back there! Haha
It's not overpriced if it fixes the issue and you enjoy driving it again. The wasted fluids prior were a waste of money. Besides after you change the fluid you should go do some figure eights and donuts in opposing directions to work it in the diff. So Bonus fun will be had!
It's not overpriced if it fixes the issue and you enjoy driving it again. The wasted fluids prior were a waste of money. Besides after you change the fluid you should go do some figure eights and donuts in opposing directions to work it in the diff. So Bonus fun will be had!
Just to clarify it is noiseless ATM (once Amsoil Slip Lock was added) and one would not know it's LSD equipped until ripping through the corners or doing this
If it is behaving correctly then I'd leave it alone. The Amsoil sliplock did not help on my TRD diff but worked for others on the Torsen diff.
Does said TRD diff have fiber clutches or steel on steel? I've had a torsen diff in the past, it ran GL-5 without a care in the world. No friction modifiers added.
01-04-23, 10:38 AM
