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Well I measured the hight with my original set up which is eibach front and oem in the back
and the front ended up a little higher while the rear a little lower.
Because I'm running eibach on the front my car looks just fine and it's not sitting lower on the back
front fenders are or should be cut higher than the rears no?
Update: I measured just now and it appears that the front is back the way it was originally with oem shocks but the rear is sitting a little lower than before
We did try to put eibach in the rears too BUT it was sitting too low so we took them off and went back with oem
after the drive home the OEM are sitting even lower than the eibach after the install
I donno what the cause of this may be, but I thought these shocks would raise the car. It's definitely sitting lower in the back than before
Trimming bump stops shouldn't affect the ride height..thats the only difference other than new shocks
I have to go down in tire size on the rears due to having RCF wheels
We did try to put eibach in the rears too BUT it was sitting too low so we took them off and went back with oem
after the drive home the OEM are sitting even lower than the eibach after the install
I donno what the cause of this may be, but I thought these shocks would raise the car. It's definitely sitting lower in the back than before
Trimming bump stops shouldn't affect the ride height..thats the only difference other than new shocks
I have to go down in tire size on the rears due to having RCF wheels
How much lower did the back end up sitting compared to OEM after installing the Bilsteins?
Just installed Bilstein B6 struts on stock 2010 (stock springs and wheels). Original struts had 170k on them and were surprisingly still functioning. Height measurements were identical to stock struts after install, did pre-load the suspension per manual.
Ride quality is definitely improved offering a more compliant ride. The harsh jarring over large bumps is lessened and doesn't jerk the suspension around at higher speeds like the stock struts did. Cornering is better with more control and grip feels improved as well. I think this is a must-do for those with 08-10 cars that want a cost effective option to improve the ride. They make the car much more livable and enjoyable for daily duty.
Process for the rear can be found on page 6438 there.
You don't have to remove the upper control arm/steering knuckle arm in the front as some DIYs suggest. Front strut assembly can be wiggled down through just hold the brake line out of the way. I only removed the front strut bolts top and bottom and disconnected swaybar link.
Not helpful. The top suspension links need to be loosened too before doing anything. This guy thinks everything needs to be pried into place, but he's not even loading the suspension before tighening. He's an idiot.
Sorry to bump an old thread but figured this was better than starting a new one. Reading through this it seems many people have used B6's on 11 and older cars. I was going to pick up some B6's for my 2014 from Tire Rack since they're local to me and my work has an account but noticed they say they only work on 12 and newer on their site? I've gathered that the 12 and newer cars have some differences in suspension and want to make sure I order the right parts. I'm planning on doing B6's front and back with Swift springs in the front and OEM springs in the rear. Can anyone confirm that these will work on my 14 and which part number from Swift I should order?
I did see that but with Swift having the two different part numbers on their springs for 08-11 and 12-14 is what was confusing me. I guess technically either spring part number will work since they work on all years?
06-01-18, 03:27 AM
