Should I buy this 2008 ISF?
#1
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Should I buy this 2008 ISF?
I'm not a regular here, but thought I would post up and get some feedback from all of you before I move forward on this 2008 USB. I'm aware of the changes in the later years and while I would prefer a newer year, this is going to be a 3rd car for me so I want to remain in this price range. I'm not looking to mod it as my other toy is already quicker than this. I've owned plenty of really fast cars, but that isn't my goal with this purchase. I just want a nice, reliable daily driver that will be fun to drive. I'm also considering a C63, E63, and M3 that are priced similarly. I would appreciate your thoughts and suggestions on this car and the price. Thanks in advance.
http://www.jimwhitelexustoledo.com/V...-OH/3033301473
http://www.jimwhitelexustoledo.com/V...-OH/3033301473
#3
Racer
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That's really clean/low miles for a 2008, but for around $30k, you can find a newer model that has some of the better features (LSD, suspension, newer tach/speedometer, newer center interface/climate control, blutooth capabilities, LED headlights, etc). If you're really set on this color and interior combo, I'd look for the service history and see if the rear view mirror, water pump, valley plate leak and/or exhaust manifold have been fixed, along with the other minor recalls. Although your plan isn't to mod it, I'd recommend getting new suspension since the 2008's OEM suspension is pretty harsh.
Since you're looking for reliability, you're on the right path...
Since you're looking for reliability, you're on the right path...
#4
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Like said above with low miles and good history its hard to pass it up no matter what year it is. If you looking for reliability and very fun then you on the right track as stated above. Ill tell you from first hand experience if reliable is one of your prerequisite then scratch the M3 off the list right out the gate(been there, done that). I too was aiming for a later model, I wanted a 2010 cause of the LSD, Bluetooth, and I still like the 08-10 cluster better..
But I found a good deal on my 08 and I couldn't pass it up
But I found a good deal on my 08 and I couldn't pass it up
#5
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm going to do a little more digging on this car first as you guys said and ask about the things you guys mentioned. If I can score it for the right price, I'll go for it. If they won't budge, I'll hold out a little longer and find a newer one. I'm in no rush for a car, but I definitely want USB.
#6
Lead Lap
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I'm not a regular here, but thought I would post up and get some feedback from all of you before I move forward on this 2008 USB. I'm aware of the changes in the later years and while I would prefer a newer year, this is going to be a 3rd car for me so I want to remain in this price range. I'm not looking to mod it as my other toy is already quicker than this. I've owned plenty of really fast cars, but that isn't my goal with this purchase. I just want a nice, reliable daily driver that will be fun to drive. I'm also considering a C63, E63, and M3 that are priced similarly. I would appreciate your thoughts and suggestions on this car and the price. Thanks in advance.
http://www.jimwhitelexustoledo.com/V...-OH/3033301473
http://www.jimwhitelexustoledo.com/V...-OH/3033301473
#7
If you can, i'd try to verify that those wheels are NOT eBay replica specials...
They appear to be chrome plated, and definitely did not come that way, if they are indeed the BBS.
If they are replicas that would be a big deal to me, the factory BBS Forged wheels are worth a good amount of $, and if they've been swapped out for these that could be a problem, as they are much heavier, and much poorer quality then forged BBS. New from dealer, i've seen the wheels range from 12-1800.00 a piece...
So if there is some way to inspect the wheels to see if they are just refinished BBS, or if they are replacement replicas, i would definitely do that. I believe the factory BBS will have BBS stamped on the inside of one of the spokes, or center hub area. But i suppose that could be counterfeited also... Just something worth looking into.
They appear to be chrome plated, and definitely did not come that way, if they are indeed the BBS.
If they are replicas that would be a big deal to me, the factory BBS Forged wheels are worth a good amount of $, and if they've been swapped out for these that could be a problem, as they are much heavier, and much poorer quality then forged BBS. New from dealer, i've seen the wheels range from 12-1800.00 a piece...
So if there is some way to inspect the wheels to see if they are just refinished BBS, or if they are replacement replicas, i would definitely do that. I believe the factory BBS will have BBS stamped on the inside of one of the spokes, or center hub area. But i suppose that could be counterfeited also... Just something worth looking into.
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#8
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I'd definitely go for the ISF if you already have a faster weekend car & just want a reliable but still pretty fast daily driver. I had a '09 C63 before the ISF & while it had more engine than the ISF, it was more of a pain in the *** owning it without a warranty. Figure to spend $3-4k at a independent shop replacing the headbolts on the C63 & E63 off the bat since all 6.2 AMG engines are affected from pre 2011 models. With the E63 you also have the air suspension that will eventually need replacement. The M3 will need its rod bearings addressed too for a piece of mind, along with the throttle actuators. In terms of a DD, I much prefer my ISF to my old C63. The C63 pre 2012 had a pretty bad interior, with not much tech, no backup camera, worse sound system compared to the ISF. I also routinely averaged 9-11mpg city driving in the C63 vs 15mpg in the ISF. And 18-21mpg highway on the C63 vs 28mpg highway on the ISF
If you can, i'd try to verify that those wheels are NOT eBay replica specials...
They appear to be chrome plated, and definitely did not come that way, if they are indeed the BBS.
If they are replicas that would be a big deal to me, the factory BBS Forged wheels are worth a good amount of $, and if they've been swapped out for these that could be a problem, as they are much heavier, and much poorer quality then forged BBS. New from dealer, i've seen the wheels range from 12-1800.00 a piece...
So if there is some way to inspect the wheels to see if they are just refinished BBS, or if they are replacement replicas, i would definitely do that. I believe the factory BBS will have BBS stamped on the inside of one of the spokes, or center hub area. But i suppose that could be counterfeited also... Just something worth looking into.
They appear to be chrome plated, and definitely did not come that way, if they are indeed the BBS.
If they are replicas that would be a big deal to me, the factory BBS Forged wheels are worth a good amount of $, and if they've been swapped out for these that could be a problem, as they are much heavier, and much poorer quality then forged BBS. New from dealer, i've seen the wheels range from 12-1800.00 a piece...
So if there is some way to inspect the wheels to see if they are just refinished BBS, or if they are replacement replicas, i would definitely do that. I believe the factory BBS will have BBS stamped on the inside of one of the spokes, or center hub area. But i suppose that could be counterfeited also... Just something worth looking into.
#9
Chrome wheels were not an option for the IS F. If these wheels are real, it's possible that the markings were sandblasted off or painted over when they decided to make them chrome. This is what the back of a factory wheel looks like:
For the "5N" spoke my other wheels said 9D, 2W and N9
For the rear wheels the one spoke will be 19X9J 55
For the RV740 spoke, my other wheels said RV737, RV738, RV741
For the "FR" spoke: each corner of the car has a wheel designated for it. FR = front right, FL = front left, RL = rear left, RR = rear right
For the "8523" spoke my others said 8508, 8303, 8521
I've used my phone to see the back of the spokes before (to confirm the Toyota dealership put the wheels back in the correct corner. They didn't). Or if the dealership has a shop maybe you could borrow one of their mirrors?
Aside from curb rash, this should be the only marking on the front of the wheels:
This might be another way to spot a knockoff idk. At the very least it's a good way to confirm your wheels are on the correct side of the car:
Driver's side: Start at valve stem. Count 4 spoke gaps clockwise. The "JWL" marking will be there.
Passenger side: From the valve stem count 4 spoke gaps counterclockwise. That's where the "JWL" will be.
Here's the wheel in question:
edit: I did some research and it looks like it's actually JWL (not JIL) stamped on the wheels. It's not just a BBS thing. I'm too lazy to edit the pictures. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JWL_standard
For the "5N" spoke my other wheels said 9D, 2W and N9
For the rear wheels the one spoke will be 19X9J 55
For the RV740 spoke, my other wheels said RV737, RV738, RV741
For the "FR" spoke: each corner of the car has a wheel designated for it. FR = front right, FL = front left, RL = rear left, RR = rear right
For the "8523" spoke my others said 8508, 8303, 8521
I've used my phone to see the back of the spokes before (to confirm the Toyota dealership put the wheels back in the correct corner. They didn't). Or if the dealership has a shop maybe you could borrow one of their mirrors?
Aside from curb rash, this should be the only marking on the front of the wheels:
This might be another way to spot a knockoff idk. At the very least it's a good way to confirm your wheels are on the correct side of the car:
Driver's side: Start at valve stem. Count 4 spoke gaps clockwise. The "JWL" marking will be there.
Passenger side: From the valve stem count 4 spoke gaps counterclockwise. That's where the "JWL" will be.
Here's the wheel in question:
edit: I did some research and it looks like it's actually JWL (not JIL) stamped on the wheels. It's not just a BBS thing. I'm too lazy to edit the pictures. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JWL_standard
Last edited by ZDCATC; 08-25-17 at 09:19 AM. Reason: edited first picture
#10
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (9)
^^^^Chrome wheels were not a FACTORY option back in 2008. But, but they were a DEALER installed option at some dealers. My F had chrome wheels installed when I was negotiating for it. There were 5 other ISFs on the lot at the same time. I had them exchange the wheels for a non chrome set. But, over the years my OEM wheels are now long gone.
Lou
Lou
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ZDCATC (08-25-17)
#12
^^^^Chrome wheels were not a FACTORY option back in 2008. But, but they were a DEALER installed option at some dealers. My F had chrome wheels installed when I was negotiating for it. There were 5 other ISFs on the lot at the same time. I had them exchange the wheels for a non chrome set. But, over the years my OEM wheels are now long gone.
Lou
Lou
Like said above with low miles and good history its hard to pass it up no matter what year it is. If you looking for reliability and very fun then you on the right track as stated above. Ill tell you from first hand experience if reliable is one of your prerequisite then scratch the M3 off the list right out the gate(been there, done that). I too was aiming for a later model, I wanted a 2010 cause of the LSD, Bluetooth, and I still like the 08-10 cluster better..
But I found a good deal on my 08 and I couldn't pass it up
But I found a good deal on my 08 and I couldn't pass it up
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