RRRacing

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if you saw this or not, but in this video (@5:21) we discuss the USRS options in detail. We sell a pretty equal ratio of street to R&T USRS. Please feel free to let me know if I can answer any questions for you.

-Justin
RR Sales

​​​​​​

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I have solid bushings. They do not make the ride stiff. The do have a sharp response to potholes and discontinuities in pavement, IOW, they transmit high frequencies directly to the chassis. Other than that, they're just like any other bushing.

jadeboy

iTrader: (1)

I am considering FIGS LCA bushings for my 2012 ISF (BC Racing Coil over + Swift Spring upgrade 14K/10K)... both the 80 and 90 are available ISF. NVH is critical for me. Has anyone tried the 80 and 90.. feedback?

enkrypt3d

The figs are great. no issues

ChpEng

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much a no-brainer, at least for me...here are my impressions of the 90D kit after installation:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10871901

jadeboy

iTrader: (1)

I purchased the FIGS LCA 90 bushing... I am planning to install it in about 1 month. Just wondering what the easiest way to install it is... Jack up the car and remove the tires OR drive up on RAMP?

lorenr

iTrader: (1)

Use jack stands. Mount them under the frame as noted in the owners manual. I put the rear jack stands under the rear axils. Be sure to do this right, otherwise "you die".
Use a breaker bar to loosen the bolts. Mark the rear of the lower control arms left and right. Take the lower control arms to a machine shop. Get a three inch long piece of 2 inch diameter steal tubing (not pipe) to use as an arbor ( I got mine at a pipe shop for free out of the scrap pile) . Have the shop press out and install the bushings (there is a front and rear to each busing. Look at the photo at Figgs web site)
Re install. Be REALLY Careful. DO NOT CROSS THREAD the large bolts. Re torque as indicated.
Putting these bushings in the car is one of the best things you can do. They really do keep the front wheel straight so they don't wobble. Has very little to do with ride comfort.
Duck soup

Loren

ChpEng

iTrader: (1)

Definitely plan on removing both front wheels, whether on a lift or jack stands. No reason to make leverage worse than it is already. Also recommend a swivel or wobble extension for ratchet.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

TBH, I didn't remove the front wheels. I put the car on stands at the OEM jack points in the front. I removed the big nut at the back, then removed the big bolts holding the bushing mount in place. I disconnected the shock bolt, removed the front bushing bolt, dropped the LCA enough to slide off the old bushing. I slid on the new solid bushings I got, put the control arm back in position, installed the front bushing bolt, shock bolt and the big bolts in the back and torqued to spec, then put the big nut on the back and torqued to spec. The only part that might be hard is sliding the old bushing off if you have rust issues. I did not, so it was pretty quick and simple for me. It might be easier with the tires off for sure, but there's no way you'll ever do this on ramps. The wheels have to be unloaded for this to work.

If you're thinking of doing anything with the front bushing, think very hard. It is extremely difficult to remove. I replaced mine with a poly bushing when I did the rear bushing because I wanted to remove the ghost spring effect from the LCA. I have since replaced the rear poly bushing with a solid bushing, and I have new solid bushings for the front to go on when I finally get some other projects completed. More to come on that one.