Dont know exactly what you mean by “customizing” the mounts but my solid motor mounts bolted right in no modification required and no fitment issue regarding my PPE headers.

 

@ 22:32 is my concern.

 

Its straight bolt on, no worries!

Rafi

 

Thank you Rafi!

 

Are these same in performance to the ones on the RCF-Track edition?

 

Probably better tbh. Longevity wise.

 

I am certain they are stiffer than the RCF track edition. The TE is still a “soft” car... spring rates are the same as stock RCF, our LCA bushings are much stiffer, Lexus thinks their customers are not serious about performance... that’s were we come in

Rafi

 

Has anyone installed these engine mounts and noticed a slight noise/vibration when lightly pressing gas, enough to lurch the car forward from a stop but not enough to bring it up to driving speed? Best I can describe it is it sounds like a small vibration is happening somewhere in the front of the car, or sounds like metal is being flexed under stress?

It only happens from the initial depression of the acceleration, the millisecond before you really step on the gas, and only happens when you lightly apply throttle. Doesn't seem to happen when I press on the gas hard.
I can only hear it when the windows are down too.

I also swapped back to OEM headers at the same time I installed the mounts, so not sure if its one or the other causing this.

 

If you did the work yourself then you have to go back and check by simply removing the splash shields underneath. If you paid then your SOL and you would have to take it to someone to look at it for you. Why would you downgrade from having headers to then removing them to then upgrade mounts?

 

Tired of the smell, the noise and the trouble that comes with no cats. Smog check was due so decided to swap it out. Engine mounts were changed because I'm planning on keeping the car and higher mileage cars are known to have shot mounts (which mine were).
It's not all about power and noise for me, I actually enjoy the car much more now that the stock headers are back in.

 

Im FBO with tune and passed the visual and smog no problem (live in SoCal). As far as the smell you might have an exhaust leak somewhere as I only get the smell if I’m standing behind the car for a bit but not inside the car or even with the windows down.

 

smell is due to not having cats, if you get some gesi cats you will be golden

 

Ive read the posts in the thread and seen a few comment about a slight increase in idle vibration (which is to be expected) but i just wanted to confirm something about my experience.

I just got these mounts fitted to my ISF today so ive driven a few hours. Overall great fittment, build quality etc so no issues there.

For me idle vibration is slightly noticeable, no big deal and a non car person probably wouldnt even notice the difference. Thats with or without aircon, no difference for me.

When in gear though and stationary such as a set of lights, with aircon on its as stated above, slight vibration only. Without aircon and in Drive and stationary the vibration is a very noticeable. I can start to hear loose things like coins etc jingle around in my car. A non car person would definitely notice it.

Does this scenerio hold true for anyone else with the mounts, does it sound right?

Update: Ok, maybe its my alternator or considered within the "norm". I drove my car again today early this morning so it was dark and i had my headlights on. What ive noticed is this:

Car vibration is slightly more, no big deal for most of the time. When my car idle is about 500rpm it vibrates a fair bit but as soon as i put the AC on or headlights on, this places that little extra load and increases my RPM to about 650-700 and then the vibration is marginal again, not much difference. So basically at night or early morning it will never be an issue for me as i have headlights on. Its just during the day when i dont have aircon on and its in gear. Again no big deal just an observation but curious if this plays out the same for anyone else with the RR engine mounts.

 

Just installed the RR Racing engine mounts these over the weekend in the garage on jackstands and various hydraulic floor jacks to keep the engine level as the subframe was dropped.
I did not completely remove the subframe and was able to wiggle the engine mounts in and out.

A few things for the "novice" DIYer.... this was not an easy job. I cannot imagine doing headers in the garage without a lift and with minimal tools, as the engine mounts install are halfway there, but anyway....

- The RR Racing instructions that came with the mounts stated to "remove all subframe bolts."
I searched high and low on the correct method to completely remove the subframe and which bolts to undo, but could not find any, let alone the bolt/nut torque for all the ones removed.
Ended up on youtube watching at the 40min+ Sikky headers install to see how it was done, but even in that video, they didn't drop the subframe and just let it hang down a bit for clearance, so used that as a reference instead.

- The RR Racing instructions stated to wrap the entire engine with the included "heat shield wrap."
The included heat shield foil wraps could not wrap all around and leaves about 1 inch exposed.
Wrapped them as much as the wrap allowed, but not sure if that exposed polyurethane area will be damaged over time by heat.

- Another thing is that the OEM engine mounts have I guess what is called an "alignment dowel" so that the engine mount can be "lined up straight" with the aluminum engine mount bracket.
The RR Racing engine mounts do NOT have the alignment dowel, so when bolting it to the engine mount bracket, you pretty much need to line it up by eye.
I did the best I could to line it up straight, and the engine mounts all bolted back into the subframe and engine block without any "off-alignment" issues, so maybe aligning it up straight isn't as drastic as it needs to be.

- After the install and putting everything back, was expecting a slight increase in NVH.
But holy hell, it's a night and day difference in gear at idle with no AC/Headlight load.
Not sure how others here stated a slight increase in idle vibration, it's pretty bad compared to OEM...the whole car shakes like a massage chair and everything rattles (as other have stated.)
Odd thing is that when in gear in Reverse, the idle vibration isn't as bad, like more than 75% less compared to in 1st gear at idle.
AC or headlights in 1st gear on at idle feels much better, but easily more than 50% more vibrations compared OEM engine mounts.
I am positive that everything was correctly bolted back on as I triple checked all bolts/nuts when reinstalling.

- Upsides: the car does feel more planted overall once it gets moving. Gear "shock" upon shifting is much less under hard throttle, so car does feel more connected when up/down shifting.
Will keep the RR Racing engine mounts as is for now, but might go back to OEM since they will last 70-100k miles without the harsh idle vibration issue.

 

Anyone doing this can make it pretty simple with a jack stand under the transmission to support the engine. That's how it did mine. I would not trust a hydraulic jack with my engine for more than a minute, not because I don't have a good jack, but because I've seen even quality jacks fail in service and drop the load. It is also possible to use an engine support bar (very common tool for FWD mechanics) to hold the engine from the top (that's how I work on my Supra engine lower end). The support bar even lets you raise the engine a few inches if you need to add some clearance.