Any advice how to save on brake replacement?
#16
My ISF is mostly a track car and Black/Red/Instructor groups, car weight is the same as it was rolling out of factory but with empty trunk.
I've used different rotors, 2 piece rotors on other cars I've tracked and with ISF I only ever used was OEM Rotors and I do about anywhere between 5-10 track days per season, so maybe a total of 30-40 track days with the ISF in 4 years. The biggest problem I have is heat, ISF is not a light car, so I went from Stock Pads > Hawk HPS+ > EBC Yellows > Project MU+800's > Carbotech XP10 and now Carbotech XP12.
I'm never easy on brakes, I go through pads in 2-3 track days and never a ONE SINGLE ISSUE, with either pads or OEM rotors and brake job is just couple hours, I just did my front and back, with full fluid flush with RBF600, so if I was spending $3000 with Dealer on brake's, I would look into different car to track, but full brake job for me, with mostly front pads + rotors and fluid, as Rear's can go untouched for a season, is around $500, it can be cheaper if you go with different pads than Carbotechs.
I've used different rotors, 2 piece rotors on other cars I've tracked and with ISF I only ever used was OEM Rotors and I do about anywhere between 5-10 track days per season, so maybe a total of 30-40 track days with the ISF in 4 years. The biggest problem I have is heat, ISF is not a light car, so I went from Stock Pads > Hawk HPS+ > EBC Yellows > Project MU+800's > Carbotech XP10 and now Carbotech XP12.
I'm never easy on brakes, I go through pads in 2-3 track days and never a ONE SINGLE ISSUE, with either pads or OEM rotors and brake job is just couple hours, I just did my front and back, with full fluid flush with RBF600, so if I was spending $3000 with Dealer on brake's, I would look into different car to track, but full brake job for me, with mostly front pads + rotors and fluid, as Rear's can go untouched for a season, is around $500, it can be cheaper if you go with different pads than Carbotechs.
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Thanks again.
#19
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Yes. You have many, many miles left in those rotors. Also keep in mind the factory spec for pads is 1mm remaining. Many dealers will tell you your pads are getting thin with 2 - 3 mm of wear (3 - 4 mm actual thickness) left. That's actually a lot of pad wear remaining for the rear. Rears wear very slowly even at the track because our braking is so heavily front biased.
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