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Congrats, I think you got a good deal. What was your final price? A friend of mine got $18k on trade for his '08 IS-F with 118k! These cars hold their value well.
They're asking $21,995. We didn't negotiate a price yet. AutoTrader Link here. I told him on the phone, "when I see it in person and test drive it, and if it checks out, we'll make a deal then." I'll note there was no actual attempt at negotiation on the phone, I just said "we'll make a deal then" because I'm not committed to buying it yet. So if the pictures are deceptive and it looks and/or drives like crap in person, I will not be buying it, and spend a day or 2 to see LA and fly home (a very highly unlikely scenario).
I've never bought a car myself before, only leased. So I've never negotiated a car purchase before. I'm under the impression that if you pay asking price then you got screwed, but at the same time, their ads on AutoTrader and on their own website say that it's the internet special and to let them know you found it on the internet for that price. And $22k seems like a decent deal regardless. If you think I could get a better deal, let me know. But at the same time, they already know I want the car a lot and that I'm coming from across the country for the color combo - so the "walk away" tactic wouldn't really work. I was thinking of just subtracting whatever their dealer fee is from the price - and be like "all cash easy transaction, you sold it quick"
Most of the time a dealer will come off list a little it just depends on the demand for the vehicle. When I purchased my SC430 a little over a year ago, I paid list. For a couple of reasons...1) There were no good examples near me with the same miles/color/condition and 2) others were interested in the vehicle and I wasn't going to take the chance of someone else buying it! Looking back could I have saved $500? Sure, but do I feel I got a good deal - absolutely. More importantly I got a vehicle I enjoy every day. Once I find the IS-F I'm looking for, I'm going to jump on it. Like I said these cars hold their value well and only last a week or so on dealer lots. I've missed out on a number of IS-Fs this summer alone!
FYI dealerships don’t mark up used cars a ton in comparison to their costs. Yes they make money, but it’s not like they make tons of money like they used too. The Internet has made it very competitive to sell cars, so dealerships usually base prices on other prices for the same or similar car. You can usually knock a few hundred bucks off, but not a few thousand. If it is a rare car or you have competition, then it is less likely.
FYI dealerships don’t mark up used cars a ton in comparison to their costs. Yes they make money, but it’s not like they make tons of money like they used too. The Internet has made it very competitive to sell cars, so dealerships usually base prices on other prices for the same or similar car. You can usually knock a few hundred bucks off, but not a few thousand. If it is a rare car or you have competition, then it is less likely.
this is exactly what the dealer will tell you if it’s true or not. In some cases it’s true, maybe this one, but I’m 100% positive in other cases it’s not.
When I was shopping 4 months ago I got the same line at each dealer. Meanwhile some of those cars moved and some are still sitting in the same spot.
In your case just go in with a book value and spend some time taking inventory of what’s not perfect and what it would take to make it perfect. Decided some go no go point. At that point you’ll be able to decide if it’s worth it to you. Tell the salesman to leave you alone while you are adding things up. Maybe leave and tell them there is another car you are looking at to get outta there and get some quite time. Their goal is to keep you off balance and in the moment rather than thinking about all of the consequences.
Remember if if you get totaled leaving the parking lot the insurance won’t even give you KBB value. Use the insurance companies bs as a back stop.
According to my knowledge, insurance companies have to give you replacement value. After all, your insuring something. The point of insurance is to replace it. Perhaps you have had different experience than me.
They may try not to pay replacement value, but with some bullying, they will. If my ISF gets totaled, they will pay me what a one owner, mint condition low mileage 13 costs, plus the cost of tags and titling.
Good luck. They claim replacement is the same as fair market value and then assume you’ll be able to negotiate a killer deal. Then they figure out that your car’s normal and that’s not dealer ready. New parts are highly discounted there’s no accounting for things like one owner etc. Look up a company called CCC.
If if you have good insurance and want to go through them, then they will negotiate with the other parties insurance. Your agent won’t be too thrilled with that, but supposedly your rates won’t go up.
I would be very very surprised to see an insurance company pay what people are excited to pay here. If you have no intention of actually replacing with an ISF it would probably be fine, but people are waiting months to find the right car at the right price.
Good luck. They claim replacement is the same as fair market value and then assume you’ll be able to negotiate a killer deal. Then they figure out that your car’s normal and that’s not dealer ready. New parts are highly discounted there’s no accounting for things like one owner etc. Look up a company called CCC.
If if you have good insurance and want to go through them, then they will negotiate with the other parties insurance. Your agent won’t be too thrilled with that, but supposedly your rates won’t go up.
I would be very very surprised to see an insurance company pay what people are excited to pay here. If you have no intention of actually replacing with an ISF it would probably be fine, but people are waiting months to find the right car at the right price.
I agree with all of this, mostly. That’s where the bullying part comes in. I litigated insurance defense claims for 6 years. In the end, you have to sign a release before they can close their book. It’s cheaper for them to pay 5 grand more than they want to on a car than it is for them to hire an attorney with the potentiality of still paying the additional five grand.
I by no means am saying it’s easy.... but for me, they will most certainly replace my ISF if it is totaled. Or..... they can spend 20 grand litigating and then replace my ISF.
I may lose... but after the Judge sees the data for how rare my car is, he will agree that I insured it. That’s just a simple fact. I will potentially get screwed if I cant find a replacement that is similar to use as a value indicator. They can argue condition, but they can’t argue maintenance records, one owner, wreck free, and mileage.
Got ya. So there are costs associated and I just see this fact as a way to bully the sales person.
Another option with your own insurance is to get an appraisal done. There's a company in Washington that'll do that for around $500.
I think it's safe to say that your situation doesn't really match most of the public. It's fine to bully them, but in my case they just stopped corresponding. So I had to bully the agent and the state consumer agency to get a fair value rather than a bottom dollar value. If I didn't have the time and personality suited to it I would have had to pay someone... not really worth it for my LS400, but would surely be worth it in other cases.
Got ya. So there are costs associated and I just see this fact as a way to bully the sales person.
Another option with your own insurance is to get an appraisal done. There's a company in Washington that'll do that for around $500.
I think it's safe to say that your situation doesn't really match most of the public. It's fine to bully them, but in my case they just stopped corresponding. So I had to bully the agent and the state consumer agency to get a fair value rather than a bottom dollar value. If I didn't have the time and personality suited to it I would have had to pay someone... not really worth it for my LS400, but would surely be worth it in other cases.
Something to think about - generally speaking, at what point is comprehensive coverage no longer worth it?
I decided to get a pre-purchase inspection at a Lexus dealer at my expense. Here are the results. I am happy to report the drivetrain is in good condition, so my initial worries are quashed. I have a few logistical issues/questions I have before I decide to pull the trigger.
1) According to the inspection report, tires are worn - 3/32nds rear, 4/32nds front. I can make it home on that, but its a 3000 mile road trip and I want to have fun without worrying. So I'd prefer to get new tires in LA. The lexus dealer would charge $1500 for tires alone, and more for labor. I'm browsing tire rack right now, and it seems like good sets can be had for $1000 or less. I have no idea which tires would be best for me, and I don't know a good place in LA to buy and mount tires. I'll rarely take it to the track, but I want the proper speed rating, and good enough grip to where I won't get consistent/annoying wheelspin on partial throttle from a stop. I definitely like to carve up twisty mountain roads as well. Perhaps if I buy tires and the dealer I'm buying from is willing to mount them for free, that could work. I would need to go in informed on which tires to buy and where.
2) Shocks are worn, would need to replace them soon after I get home. Lexus dealer would charge $1500 for parts, alone, and the total cost would be $2000 with labor. I wouldn't get this done at a dealer. What would be a reasonable price for an independent shop to do this, parts plus labor?
3) Rotors are worn, would need to be replaced soon after I get home. Dealer quotes $4000 to replace, parts +labor. What would be a reasonable price for an independent shop to do this?
1. Tires in LA - In California I believe Discount Tire is know as America's Tire - They're a GREAT source - IMHO. I'm assuming you'll stay with stock sizes. Look at Michelin PS4 or Bridgestone S-04.
2. Shock price way too high. Depending on brand, you can get that done for much less.
3. Rotors are inexpensive to buy for parts - See this thread. They are not tough to replace. If you have any mechanical skill at all, you can DIY.
A couple of things, now that you've had a PPI done have you considered having the vehicle shipped? That's how I got my SC430 from FL to NC. Cost was about $500. I purchased it from a Toyota dealer and the condition was spot on from the photos and Facetime the sales rep did for me. It not only saves your time but also wear, tear and mileage on the vehicle. Something to think about. I'm going to do the same when I find my ISF...I have no plans on traveling to get it. If you do decide to drive of course I would get new tires before heading out.
Rotors -are you sure they said $4,000 and not $400? As for maintenance you can find an indy that can do everything for 30-50% of the dealer price....just make sure they are a Lexus shop. My indy does Lexus, BMW and Mercedes and can handle anything the dealer can. For example I had brakes done for $250 dealer wanted $600. Alternator was $400 w/lifetime warranty dealer wanted $800. That being said I do still get some things done at the dealer if the price is right.
1. Tires in LA - In California I believe Discount Tire is know as America's Tire - They're a GREAT source - IMHO. I'm assuming you'll stay with stock sizes. Look at Michelin PS4 or Bridgestone S-04.
2. Shock price way too high. Depending on brand, you can get that done for much less.
3. Rotors are inexpensive to buy for parts - See this thread. They are not tough to replace. If you have any mechanical skill at all, you can DIY.
Lou
I believe you meant to link to another thread about rotors but forgot? What would be a good brand? Would want a balance between performance and durability. I would very rarely take it to the track so I don't need the absolute best performing one. Just something that would be a relatively good fit for the car performance wise that would be durable.
Originally Posted by kevin3344
A couple of things, now that you've had a PPI done have you considered having the vehicle shipped? That's how I got my SC430 from FL to NC. Cost was about $500. I purchased it from a Toyota dealer and the condition was spot on from the photos and Facetime the sales rep did for me. It not only saves your time but also wear, tear and mileage on the vehicle. Something to think about. I'm going to do the same when I find my ISF...I have no plans on traveling to get it. If you do decide to drive of course I would get new tires before heading out.
Rotors -are you sure they said $4,000 and not $400? As for maintenance you can find an indy that can do everything for 30-50% of the dealer price....just make sure they are a Lexus shop. My indy does Lexus, BMW and Mercedes and can handle anything the dealer can. For example I had brakes done for $250 dealer wanted $600. Alternator was $400 w/lifetime warranty dealer wanted $800. That being said I do still get some things done at the dealer if the price is right.
I just double checked, they want $2417 for rotors and brakes- which, yeah, is way too high, even for a dealer.
TBH, I'd rather see it and test drive it in person before I buy, and honestly, a lot of the fun would in fact be the cross country road trip. If I shipped it from LA to NYC it would be more than $500. A 1 way flight to LA costs ~$150, and 4 motel stays shouldn't cost more than $400 or so. That doesn't include gas, but again, I would enjoy this trip a lot!
Haha, no problem. Enjoy your drive back...just take some pics for us along the way!
Yeah $2417 for rotors and brakes way too high....you can grab some OEM brakes and rotors on eBay from a certified Lexus dealer for about $600 and have your indy install them. Google Bilstein B6 performance shocks (works on ISF) and you'll save 50% of the dealer cost...and probably get better performance. To top it off you don't have to get everything done at once...get your tires, drive it back and go from there. I would tackle the brakes and rotors next.
02-02-19, 02:55 PM
