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Im going to buying the F-Sport rear sway soon and to make install easier im just gonna get new end links. Im lowered on swift springs so would i need adjustable endlinks or can i use oem? i think oem should be fine as thats whats on now but been reading when lowered go with adjustables.
To get the most out of a sway bar the pivot point (body mount) and the bars end link attachment point should be parallel to the ground when at loaded ride height. If that is true and the angle from the bar mount to bar end to link form a right angle of 90°, the length of the end-link is correct.
If one has too much bar, you could de-tune it by shortening or lengthening the end link or adding space to the bar mount moving it away from the body.
In short, think of breaking a stubborn lug nut loose by having your breaker bar positioned at say 3-O'clock (parallel to ground) so you can stand on it to apply maximum leverage. Take note that it would be very difficult to apply that same leverage if the bars angle was at say 5-O'clock.
Bit the bullet and ordered the Sikky rear sway bar adjustable end links for $60+. I will also be lowering the car on BC racing coil-overs as the shocks are on its last legs. Having the end links aligned accordingly with the change in suspension geometry seems appropriate. Thank you to all who contributed to my buying decision and the time you saved me.
The figs sway bar links are far better. When I ordered the sikky ones I found even adjusted to there shorter position they were about an inch or longer then the oem ones. That won’t allow you to position them correctly. The figs ones can be adjusted shorter or longer then the oem ones.
I posted in another thread regarding the rear F-Sport sway bar and have been encountering an annoying popping noise on uneven roads below 20-30 mph. At first, I thought it was my rear passenger coilovers that went bad but they weren't. Swapped out the rear F-Sport sway bar and the OEM endlink was shot. I did some research between FIGS and Sikky and ended up paying for more FIGS. After countless adjustments, greasing with a 8oz tub of Energy Suspension lubricant, the noise is still there. I ensured everything was torqued to spec. I even tried installing the bottom of the FIGS endlinks to both of the adjustable holes in the LCAs but noise is still there. I've seen a few other members on here with OEM LCAs. The one I have is Megan Racing which I'm thinking of swapping out for something else. I did raise my car up with the new coilovers I just recently installed so I'm wondering if the Sikky endlinks will suffice since FIGS is designed for more lowered/slammed fitments...?
My question is, do you guys add grease/lube in between the bushings that were provided with the F-Sport rear sway bars? I know Sikky instructed to do so and I'm planning to do the same although I think it has to do something with the FIGS endlinks. I ensured the the lock nut was snug and not tight as per FIGS instructions (https://figsengineering.blogspot.com...k-install.html), with the sway bar 90 degrees parallel to the ground while suspension loaded, and the FIGS endlinks rotated correctly at a straight position. Also, @2013FSport is absolutely right about the positioning of the sway bar btw
The figs sway bar links are far better. When I ordered the sikky ones I found even adjusted to there shorter position they were about an inch or longer then the oem ones. That won’t allow you to position them correctly. The figs ones can be adjusted shorter or longer then the oem ones.
Just confirmed by test fitting the Sikky endlinks at their shortest length, it will not fit correctly with the F-Sport rear sway bar and MR LCAs. It will fit if your ride isn't lowered/at stock height. I'm lowered with 1 finger gap above the tires.
That's correct. It may be possible to fit them if you preload the sikky links, but you probably shouldn't do that. The FIGs links are adjustable to fit in there.
I don't know how Sikky came up with this spec. They are approx 7/8" longer than stock. Seems to me that If you're lowered the links would have to be shorter than stock to install correctly, and this is the point of using adjustable links.
My solution was to shorten the links. I took 0.625" off of each end for a total of 1-1/4". Note: the threaded shafts need to be shortened as well.
I have yet to test this, but I think I'm on the right track.
I don't know how Sikky came up with this spec. They are approx 7/8" longer than stock. Seems to me that If you're lowered the links would have to be shorter than stock to install correctly, and this is the point of using adjustable links.
My solution was to shorten the links. I took 0.625" off of each end for a total of 1-1/4". Note: the threaded shafts need to be shortened as well.
I have yet to test this, but I think I'm on the right track.
That's a great idea! How did it turn out? I ended up returning the Sikky endlinks and used my FIGS instead
That's a great idea! How did it turn out? I ended up returning the Sikky endlinks and used my FIGS instead
Thanks. Very simple, a few cuts on the band saw. I had them sitting around my shop for too long to return. I have yet to reinstall them. I'll post up the results when I'm done.
It looks like I removed just enough length to make these work for my setup. If I lower any more in the future I'll have to shorten the links again. So I'll be keeping this setup for the foreseeable future.