bbong

I don't DD my ISF, it's mainly just weekend and track car and the HC+800 failure was back in 2015-2016, so I have not built up my spare parts inventory for the ISF, right now I have multiple rotors that I can still use, brake pads, fluids and the whole shebang. I honestly can't complain about ISF's braking system, after coming from Evo9 and STI that needed heavy ducking in order to not boil the fluid, I'm yet to feel soft brakes in ISF after a hot session, like I did in STI where foot went through the floor and I literally had to bleed them every session. I guess it's a preference, getting the drilled rotor to fail by just doing DD, I honestly don't see it happening and the price I pay for OEM fronts you just can't beat that.

I looked at dual piece, I'd have to stop tracking the ISF and move to something lighter as this would take me way outside of my budget, even replacing a rotor piece on them is way more than getting a whole set of OEM's, so I can't really swing that big of a price difference.

lexicon72

Great discussion. I've been on OEM brembo rotors for the past 5 years. They lasted 60,000 DD miles + maybe 4 track days. But that was with crappy non-aggressive stop tech sport pads. Last year I replaced the rotors with a fresh set of OEM drilled along with the Project Mu HC+800 pads for track days (and crappy stop techs and soon NS400 for DD use). I have done 2 track days with the new drilled rotors and HC+800 pads with no cracking (3 track days planned for 2019). But I do keep debating on whether or not to use slotted for track use. But $600+ for slotted 1 or 2 piece sucks. I'm with bbong that I could get almost 3 OEM pairs for the price of the higher end slotted. But I also don't want to materially increase the risk just to save some $$$.

SpeedFreaksUSA

iTrader: (1)

The HC+800 work well for most guys wanting to do a hand full of track events per year or who are just getting into it but at the end of the day they are still a street compound and don't hold up to heavy sustained track use for the more experienced guys like yourself. Essentially they vaporize when heated to the upper end or beyond their usable temp range and became more brittle (as all brake pad compounds do) over time with many large heat cycles. The failures were the cause the hammering effect of the ABS of very heat cycled and more brittle material that is also worn thin (less material to damp the pulses) which had the backplate attachment point as the weakest link. I'm sorry you had to deal with the failures- it's part of the reason the NS400 and HC+800 have been axed. The good news is that this was mainly an an isolated issue with the Thai produced HC+800 and in any case Project Mu went back to the drawing board and came up with a new backplate design and attachment process when moulding and curing the pads and have brought all the production back in house to the main facility in Japan to hold QC to as high of a standard as possible. So far we haven't seen any failures of the pad delaminating with the new style so it seems to have been a successful improvement but still anyone heavily tracking their IS-F should look at a track specific compound since it will be more appropriate. I can understand your distaste for the brand after seeing a failure like that but none of their track specific or motorsport compounds manufactured in Japan have seen failures like this.

On a more positive note I'm glad you're enjoying the Carbotechs. Hopefully the XP12 are lasting quite a bit longer for you.

-Matt M.

bbong

That's even better news to known that it was a bad batch and ProjectMu sorted this out, I'll refrain from speaking against them until I try them again (overall on my first set, I was pretty happy with grip, feel and response), and yes we talked about that before and the possible reason for their quick wear. I'm very happy with XP12's, but will need a new set soon

Zarrex

What's the difference between NS and PS Project Mu pads? I see them both on MIJ. Also do you guys have a particular set of rotors you like to go with? This is just for street driving, not heavy track use. I've heard to try to stay away from cross drilled though.

3nergiz3d

I believe it's bite characteristics, but feel free to DM SpeedFreaks and he can go in length between the two pad compounds. The OEM rotors are pretty cheap so people have opt for those. Also check out Brakenetics for rotors, as some of the members on here are running them.

Zarrex

Yeah Brakenetics and Centric seem to be popular. I most likely won't be tracking the car so I don't need anything crazy. This is also just for insight when the time comes, I don't actually need new pads or rotors yet. Centric seem stupid cheap though ($244 for 4 rotors) compared to some other options, am I missing something? Brakenetics are like $550 a set, and OEMs look to be around $700 on ebay from belllexusnorthscottsdale (unless these "OEM Brembos" are actually legit). Where do you guys get your OEMs from?

SubOrbital

Brembo has anti-counterfeiting measures if you’re that concerned. Box will have a unique QR code and a holographic sticker to verify authenticity. That price looks like for Brembo P/Ns, I paid around that and was sufficiently satisfied of my rotors’ provenance.

LexusfanVA

iTrader: (1)

I’ve gotten Brembo rotors from rockauto and eBay. eBay was $305 with coupon or about $375 normal price. Rockauto was ultimately even cheaper but they don’t always carry stock. Autozone is $425-470 or so. However brembo rotors still seem to have cracking issues if pushed somewhat hard, so I’d recommend something slotted.

MMI

Can anyone confirm the front OE Brembo part number 43512-0W060 is the same for both left and right rotors? Can't seem to find this anywhere.

ChpEng

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the OE-type cross-drilled rotors are the same left and right.
Some sites (Longo Lexus) specifically state "Left, Right".
Others (Lexuspartsnow, Brembo, Centric) just state "2 required" or similar.

MMI

^^^^ thanks!