When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Don't bolt the ring gear to the spool before putting the parts inside the diff, then use the stub axle to hold the spool while you tighten the ring gear bolts. There's a picture of this in a thread in this forum from a Japanese shop doing it this way.
While mating the gears has nothing to do with it. The spool won't go in period with the ring gear on it. Not even close.
Don't bolt the ring gear to the spool before putting the parts inside the diff, then use the stub axle to hold the spool while you tighten the ring gear bolts. There's a picture of this in a thread in this forum from a Japanese shop doing it this way.
While mating the gears has nothing to do with it. The spool won't go in period with the ring gear on it. Not even close.
OK, now I'm confused. You have a comment on that link I posted indicating you had ground one side to drop it in there. I haven't seen anyone blow these up yet, so I'm not concerned about the grinding to fit aspect, but rolling the ring gear and the carrier in there spinning it repeatedly to pull the two together will be abusive and one risks damaging the ring and/or pinion gears. Maybe the spool can be held through the bear race area to minimize this? If not, that will be a painful process vs grinding and dropping it in.
Grinding has its own risks. You have to block off the pinion bearing area so no metal shavings get into the pinion bearings. I used a cardboard piece cut to fit, taped in, and ran a vacuum while I was grinding to minimize this, but that's definitely a PITA too. Either way, it's not simple. Just saying there is a way to do this without grinding if you like. You'd have to be pretty sloppy to damage the bearings while tightening the ring gear bolts. The stub axle provides very positive control of spool position during the tightening process.
And no Torsen spool comes close to the OS Giken for performance. I own both. A Torsen is an open diff as soon as the inside wheel lifts or even spins. It's also not possible to tune a Torsen - it comes from the factory with a torque bias ratio and the only way to change it is to change the internal gear set in the spool. So "just find a used Torsen" isn't even in the same ballpark as the Giken diff.
Grinding has its own risks. You have to block off the pinion bearing area so no metal shavings get into the pinion bearings. I used a cardboard piece cut to fit, taped in, and ran a vacuum while I was grinding to minimize this, but that's definitely a PITA too. Either way, it's not simple. Just saying there is a way to do this without grinding if you like. You'd have to be pretty sloppy to damage the bearings while tightening the ring gear bolts. The stub axle provides very positive control of spool position during the tightening process.
And no Torsen spool comes close to the OS Giken for performance. I own both. A Torsen is an open diff as soon as the inside wheel lifts or even spins. It's also not possible to tune a Torsen - it comes from the factory with a torque bias ratio and the only way to change it is to change the internal gear set in the spool. So "just find a used Torsen" isn't even in the same ballpark as the Giken diff.
Do you know if it will fit into the case with the bearings off? That is, with the ring mated with all the bolts.
y goes thru all that trouble ? just get 2010 and up LSD junkyard or get it from another member that total their F
The Osgiken diff , its night and day difference from the torsen. I pulled out the rcf diff from my isf coz i dont have 4 wheel steering-feel Even the price is doubled it still worth it. The fun factor of SC/osgiken ISF is amazing.
I had Titan Motorsports do the OSG TCD install on my IS350 in Orlando, FL back in 2013. Give them a call to see if they'll install the OSG unit onto the pumpkin if you ship it to them. They performed the install without any issues on my car.
OS Giken recommends an oil interval change every 30k-50k miles depending on usage. IIRC, for vehicles that participate in a full season of motorsport events, the reps recommend a fluid change at the end of the racing season. The OS250R fluid isn't necessarily lifetime but it is extremely durable (it better be at $50 per quart!).
EDIT: Regarding the fairly high cost of the OS250R gear oil, I forgot to mention that OS Giken recently provided a bulletin with a list of alternative gear oil that can be used on their differentials.
FWIW - Figs has listed Amsoil Synthetic SG 75w/140 as an option if those can not be found.
My guy grind the sides of 08 pumkin to put in the os giken.
Above you can see why you need to grind the case Vs below with the OEM carrier and Cusco having recessed provisions for the ring gear bolts. Perhaps the Carrier itself is slightly larger in a width aspect.
However it appears the ground edges are too clear the side bearings which absolutely is not necessary. Simply pivoting the Carrier side bearing in first with both side races out leaves plenty of room for centering.
You just have to cautiously center the side bearing races. (removed on right side in this pic)
Do you know if it will fit into the case with the bearings off? That is, with the ring mated with all the bolts.
See this pic?
That's why removing the bearings isn't likely to solve the clearance issue. Already thought of that when I did mine. My dad's comment was, "If we could just drop this in without the ring gear bolted on, we'd be fine."
Nope. Not until now. But that speaks volumes to interference fit issue. Just surveying options at this point.
If one were to go the grindless method and mate the two in the case it would be wise to know the ring can be removed from the TCD unit should extraction from the case be needed for repairs/clutch replacement later in life. Worst case is space the ring away from the pinion and tap around it slowly. Pros and cons to both methods....
I snagged a used 4.083 if I need to order different side shims for proper preload/backlash etc. as the 350 is the DD in the winter. I'm not riding the sport bike when its 25°F outside like it is now. lol
Currently waiting on the TCD to arrive.
I've installed and setup ring and pinions on Ford 8.8 with having to setup the pinion crush bearing and carrier bearing shims for lash and alignment. Would anyone here know if this is also as DIY as one of those would be? I am not planning on changing any other internals.
Just talked to GikenUSA. They said they thought it was straightforward. Looking at the pics, I think its an easy job. I will be reusing my stock ring gear anyway. I'm in for a group buy!
I've installed and setup ring and pinions on Ford 8.8 with having to setup the pinion crush bearing and carrier bearing shims for lash and alignment. Would anyone here know if this is also as DIY as one of those would be? I am not planning on changing any other internals.
11-21-19, 10:41 PM
