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Thanks. I'll be creating another thread for this. I figure the next thing to do is lay under the car while it's on and making the noise so I can pinpoint the exact area it's coming from.
If you have access to a lift.. That would be easier to find.
OP here, following up on this issue, after replacing all the parts JoeZ suggested in regards to the transmission mount.
Thank you very much JoeZ and others in this thread whom helped diagnose and narrowed down the "wheel of fortune" noise.
After driving around extensively the past 6 hours, the noise has not appeared even once.
Drove on all the same roads I usually do in order to duplicate the noise while decel and nothing now.
Since I was able to duplicate the noise on the same roads I drive on daily, and to not hear it, as of now, is a godsend.
......
I will update here after a few months for further followup, just in case the silence is a fluke. But as of current and driving on the same roads that I could attempt to duplicate the wheel of fortune noise on, the noise is of no more.
Super glad to hear this is working out as what appears to be resolving the noise we have mostly been experiencing...
6-7 months ago I mentioned the Trans Mount, but never had time to pursue it.
It's only been 2 weeks since I replaced mine with all the new OEM parts and I can safely say on many short drives. I have NOT been able to recreate the sounds on accelerate / decelerate / coasting at the key speeds ranging from 20 to 50 mph..
At that time I took a closer look at the guibos & center bearing visually and saw nothing close to our center console location that could potentially produce this sound.
Also at that time I made a decision to order a few parts for the shifter lever Grommet at the trans arm connection.. I could tell mine with 180k miles was dry and cracking..
I swapped the the grommet & bushing today, putting the F back on the 2 front jack stands.. It was a tight space to work in, but got some lessons learned.. Have the right tools and make sure the car is safely high enough.. Working on a lift would have made this swap much easier..
Anyways here are the parts I changed..
For some of you in different climates, it might be a better idea to order all 4 parts.
Required:
35569C - 1 GROMMET (FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL ROD) 90480-17013
35569G - 1 BUSH (FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL ROD) 90560-08091
Optional:
33675A - 1 PIN, W/HOLE (FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL ROD) 33726-35010
1 - 90468-14011 *** STD. PART - Locking Cotter Pin
Here is my photos from today removing & replacing with only 2 new required parts.. Looking back now, I would just do with all 4 new parts. They are approx $10 bucks for all..!!
I did clean up the original pin w/hole & cotter pin.. Keep in mind you will need that spring washer as it creates resistiance for the locking cotter pin..
I would think when you order the new pin w/hole, the spring washer should come with it.. If not, you WILL be reusing the original one, since it not listed or shown in the parts diagrams.
Joe Z, eventually you will have to change that bushing again. I think making an aluminum one would be best and would never have to be replaced again. I’m going to look into that and see what my machinist can make for me and I’ll post.
Took Joe Z bushing removal a step further. I went ahead and removed part of the shift linkage and found both bushings are the same diameter, thickness and have the same size center hole. Difference is for whatever reason one bushing splits open into two and the other doesn’t. In the pics the one on the left is part of the front shift linkage and the one on the right is further back on the linkage. Seems like you could just order the rear bushing and use that one for the front and rear. I’m just going to have these made in aluminum.
^^ Nice I don't mind changing it in 10 more years.
Another mystery indeed, as the parts at the rear lever linkage you have opened up are also NOT listed in the parts diagram. (see red circle below) Same mystery with your torn underside boot cover for the gate shifter arm coming into tunnel..
Likely need to order the entire $700+ "Floor Shift Assembly" to get all these new parts
How was the condition of that rear grommet that splits open? It looks much better than the front one that lives closer to exhaust pipes and heat from engine & trans.
I did not have access to my rear arm connection as all my exhaust, trans mount &!heat shields are installed..
I'm guessing yours are all off at the moment ?? Did you snap a pic of the arm coming out & down where it connects with the 90 degree lever horizontal arm in your photos.?
I did inspect visually from a small slot opening between the heat shields for the drive shaft tunnel, that I had two very small tears at the underside boot cover on the outer most ribs. No issues like yours where the arm comes down from the gate shifter..
^^ Nice I don't mind changing it in 10 more years.
Another mystery indeed, as the parts at the rear lever linkage you have opened up are also NOT listed in the parts diagram. (see red circle below) Same mystery with your torn underside boot cover for the gate shifter arm coming into tunnel..
Likely need to order the entire $700+ "Floor Shift Assembly" to get all these new parts
How was the condition of that rear grommet that splits open? It looks much better than the front one that lives closer to exhaust pipes and heat from engine & trans.
I did not have access to my rear arm connection as all my exhaust, trans mount &!heat shields are installed..
I'm guessing yours are all off at the moment ?? Did you snap a pic of the arm coming out & down where it connects with the 90 degree lever horizontal arm in your photos.?
I did inspect visually from a small slot opening between the heat shields for the drive shaft tunnel, that I had two very small tears at the underside boot cover on the outer most ribs. No issues like yours where the arm comes down from the gate shifter..
Joe Z
Much better condition for sure! Yes, I still have everything apart and glad it is for this reason you opened my eyes to. I’m going to get this made in aluminum and see how much different it feels. My front one like yours was dry rotted and crumbled. Rear looks dam near mint but very soft and spongy. Red circle is the rear one.
Guess it was the mount after all as I was referring to how the mount handles NVH and how Mike Figaro has expressed it's a multiaxis mount.
This transmission produces lots a "meat grinder" like sounds.. With out the OEM multi axis mount working correctly, we are starting to think some of the transmission natural NVH sounds / movements become more prominent when the worn mount has reached the end of its service life.
How the Kein mount or different style solid mount solves this specific "wheel of fortune" sounds but then creates a much more audible sounds that the solid mounts can't absorb...
Those of you ever driven in a GTR, might know what I'm saying about hearing what the trans is doing..
OP here, following up on this issue, after replacing all the parts JoeZ suggested in regards to the transmission mount.
Thank you very much JoeZ and others in this thread whom helped diagnose and narrowed down the "wheel of fortune" noise.
After driving around extensively the past 6 hours, the noise has not appeared even once.
Drove on all the same roads I usually do in order to duplicate the noise while decel and nothing now.
Since I was able to duplicate the noise on the same roads I drive on daily, and to not hear it, as of now, is a godsend.
Ordered the following and replaced everything in regards to the mount based upon JoeZ's post above.
Part No.: 12321-38020
BRACKET, ENGINE MOUN
Part No.: 90178-A0048
NUT, FLANGE x 8
Part No.: 12371-38110
INSULATOR, ENGINE MO
Part No.: 12392-38020
INSULATOR, ENGINE MO
I think to cut costs, can reuse all the nuts and other parts from the old transmission mount, and ONLY replace part 12371-38110 which is around $50-55 as of the date of this post.
Because the new mount is thicker than the old one that is removed, might need to use a jack to compress the "aluminum transmission cross member" that the transmission mount "sits" on. so that can thread in the 4 bolts for the cross member. Difficult to describe here, but once you get under the car and remove the transmission cover, it'll be clear on what needs to be done to remove the trans mount.
I will update here after a few months for further followup, just in case the silence is a fluke. But as of current and driving on the same roads that I could attempt to duplicate the wheel of fortune noise on, the noise is of no more.
A nugget from my recent parts ordering adventure...Evidently the dealer parts database shows 12321-38020 (bracket) & 12392-38020 (rubber cover) as fitment for only MY 2014, not MY's 2008-2013. So if supplying VIN or MY as a check vs part number, be firm in requesting these parts...they are indeed the correct ones for all MY's as @Joe Z and @itsmike177 have noted above.
A nugget from my recent parts ordering adventure...Evidently the dealer parts database shows 12321-38020 (bracket) & 12392-38020 (rubber cover) as fitment for only MY 2014, not MY's 2008-2013. So if supplying VIN or MY as a check vs part number, be firm in requesting these parts...they are indeed the correct ones for all MY's as @Joe Z and @itsmike177 have noted above.
@ChpEng So this reconfirms that you must order all the parts ala carte, if you want to achieve an entire new mount set up..
The part number never changed and was not superseded, so we have no reason to think it was modified for later MY's. But we have strong evidence that the dealer database is wrong about the MY 2008-2013 compatibility conflict for the bracket (12321-38020) and rubber cover (12392-38020).
The dealer and online/web databases are completely separate, and they have different errors. LexusPartsNow currently shows that 12371-38110, 12392-38020, and 12321-38020 are incompatible with all ISF MY's except for 2014. My favorite local dealer's portal shows that all three are incompatible for all ISF's period. As of a couple weeks ago, the dealer database showed that 12371-38110 is compatible with all ISF MY's, but that 12392-38020 &12321-38020 are only compatible with MY 2014.
Just another adventure with Lexus part numbers. :-)
Edit: Bottom line, for a fresh install, order the parts in @Joe Z 's photo in previous post.
Last edited by ChpEng; 08-30-20 at 04:51 PM.
Reason: grammar
@ChpEng So this reconfirms that you must order all the parts ala carte, if you want to achieve an entire new mount set up..
Joe Z
Originally Posted by Joe Z
Super glad to hear this is working out as what appears to be resolving the noise we have mostly been experiencing...
6-7 months ago I mentioned the Trans Mount, but never had time to pursue it.
It's only been 2 weeks since I replaced mine with all the new OEM parts and I can safely say on many short drives. I have NOT been able to recreate the sounds on accelerate / decelerate / coasting at the key speeds ranging from 20 to 50 mph..
At that time I took a closer look at the guibos & center bearing visually and saw nothing close to our center console location that could potentially produce this sound.
Also at that time I made a decision to order a few parts for the shifter lever Grommet at the trans arm connection.. I could tell mine with 180k miles was dry and cracking..
I swapped the the grommet & bushing today, putting the F back on the 2 front jack stands.. It was a tight space to work in, but got some lessons learned.. Have the right tools and make sure the car is safely high enough.. Working on a lift would have made this swap much easier..
Anyways here are the parts I changed..
For some of you in different climates, it might be a better idea to order all 4 parts.
Required:
35569C - 1 GROMMET (FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL ROD) 90480-17013
35569G - 1 BUSH (FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL ROD) 90560-08091
Optional:
33675A - 1 PIN, W/HOLE (FOR TRANSMISSION CONTROL ROD) 33726-35010
1 - 90468-14011 *** STD. PART - Locking Cotter Pin
Here is my photos from today removing & replacing with only 2 new required parts.. Looking back now, I would just do with all 4 new parts. They are approx $10 bucks for all..!!
Joe Z
Just ordered all the transmission parts and all 4 new parts for the shift linkage/control rod from LexusPartsNow.com and yes it still shows 2014 as the only MY the transmission parts fit........so I just put in I had a 2014 to go ahead with the order. This should be a no brainer for people on the fence as a maintenance item on the ISF as the cost is super cheap and a no brainer @ $106.85 in parts + shipping + tax.....just get er done
Joe Z, any issues encountered requiring a different approach when installing the new thicker mount, similar to tsmike177 (Reply # 51); "might need to use a jack to compress the aluminum transmission cross member" that the transmission mount "sits" on. so that can thread in the 4 bolts for the cross member"
04-25-20, 05:27 PM
Weekend Update
I don't mind changing it in 10 more years.
