OS giken or Torsen can’t go wrong with either or for the isf. I was keeping the list to strictly suspension mods though since he said he wanted to auto cross.

 

This may be debatable, but my research is suggesting that the 12 plus suspension has better geometry and doesn’t need most of the adjustable stuff. JDMV8 is one of the bigger track guys with legit suspension and he said his 13 didn’t need them. He runs Öhlins, rear sway and end links.

 

The rear adjustable arms are for custom settings. All you can adjust on the isf in the rear with stock arms is toe which is lame seeing my old Nissan Altima had toe and camber stock yet this performance sedan lacks camber adjustment from the factory. The isf stock regardless of year is way under sprung for aggressive track driving. Step up the spring rates and your set. I track mine and I don’t see a need for a rear sway bar upgrade at all. Which ohlins does he have the 2k ones or the 6k ohlins coilovers?

 

Sorry in advance for the thread jack, but it applies to current discussion.

He has the ILX/TTX set, so 6k and change. So the adjustable figs arms are for custom alignment? I would not know where to start with settings. Do you just ask for specific settings during an alignment?

I do not know how his alignment turned out. He aggressively tracks his, and his car is low. I think he has registered up to 1.6 G in turn (but I don’t remember where I read that). According to him, the stock 12 plus arms are sufficient for track use, even though not adjustable. After I get my Penskes (Going 18/16 at your recommendation) I’ll post up my OEM arm alignment results.

Adjustable end links and the LCA bushings are a solid investment. Different bushings (other than LCA) would help, but do they require a press or can you do it in garage? Did you just buy the entire Figs bushing kit, or specific ones? I have read a lot about chassis tuning the ISF. It is a lot to take in.

I bought an Fsport brace too. I see a lot of flex when I lift the car on one corner. I Plan on an RR front tower brace and UR rear tower brace. Still considering if any lower bracing in the front is worthwhile, but with the LCAs it may not be.

Since I’m a noob, I have considered the CCSP and CCSR cars and taken some plays from their book. The FSport Chassis brace is just a good design, so I bought one while available.

 

Comparing Os giken vs torsen is night and day difference. I regret not to jump into it years ago. After experiencing it, i will chose the OSG as the number one mod to get for our cars.

 

Yes I get a custom alignment. I run -2.5 degrees of camber F+R. I would run more but my car is also my DD. I did all my bushings in my garage. I have a press and C clamp is to get bushings out. It’s just time consuming not hard. I didn’t buy the whole kit I bought the bushings for the front control arms and some other ones in the rear that the figs arms didn’t cover. F sport brace looks sturdy but I honestly don’t feel any flex or roll with mine. I used a laser to see if I have any twist and I do not. That’s with everything I have in place suspension wise and using a jack. The RR brace along with the UR trunk brace will absolutely make the chassis feel solid. I honestly doubt a brace underneath the front would make any difference but who knows.

 

No doubt BUT what I was saying is either one of those is significantly better then an open diff. Plus for someone who doesn’t track the car and uses it as a DD. I have no doubt they would hardly notice a difference from a torsen and a giken on the street just normal cruising and a WOT run once in a blue.