I see. I had met a local member and he told me of having issues with the tuned intake. He couldn't resolve it working with RRRacing and ended selling the intake.I thought it was something with his F not realizing other people were experiencing the same thing.

 

Update. Was headed to a car event Saturday morning and car started acting up. KCLV jumping from 23 down to 6 again. Took it home, threw on the stock airbox and reflashed it to stock tune. Also added new MAF. Drove it about 5 hours without issue. Sunday I threw the tune and tuned intake back on, along with the RR Racing carbon intake with the vent reroute. Put another 2 hours on it. Seems to be better and KCLV no longer jumps around. A few days ago when I thought it got better, KCLV was still moving from 17-23 often every 15-30 seconds it would change. After the new MAF and testing both intakes for several hours it seems to run well and KCLV climbed and stayed at 23. Will give it a few more days, but I think overall it may have been a bad air intake connection somewhere, and a bad MAF. Will post another update in a few days.

 

I was having similar issues. What I had found was my AOS had a vacuum leak in it, i taped and sealed all the connection points and it was much better but was still acting a little funny. I replaced the MAF as well and that seemed to fix the issue. Take a look at your AOS for sure, especially if you have removed the hosing several times to get more room to empty it. The quick disconnect "teeth" make a bite in the tubing and need to be trimmed down about an 1/8" each time you disconnect them so you can get a fresh bite. I had the first gen aos from rr racing btw.

 

Thanks for the info. However I don’t have an AOS. I do agree that I probably had an opening somewhere and a bad or poorly connected MAF. So far car has been running well.

 

Just an update, here is different video.

It's been about 3 weeks and car has been running fine with the tuned intake, CF elbow, and tune. Even taken a few out of town trips. But lately the engine noise has come back or gotten louder. KCLV has stayed at 21-24, though at some 1/6th throttle acceleration the knock seems to spike from 3 to 5-6 and KCLV gradually drops. A bit more throttle and the knock goes 1-2 and KCLV rises. Hasn't gone below 19 though so seems like new MAF fixed that.

Thinking it’s maybe the 130A0-38010 or 13090-38010(superseded by 13090-38030) cam motor gears? Car pulls great and drives fine, good mpg, etc. Noise is just worrying. One tiny thing I notice is sometimes in 7th/8th gear the car seems to accelerate and then RPM drop very slightly under load. As in if I'm at 2k RPM and want to accelerate they'll drop slightly to 1900 and then go up, but only if I'm easy on the throttle. Don't notice it in lower gears.

 

You starting to miss your old ISF?

 

That was a great car, but minor issues here and there as well as valley plate leak and even the custom headlights took months to get working flawlessly.

I should have gone with my original plan to get an SUV for the winter and gotten a 2 door in the spring. I guess I miss having a warranty or having an easily diagnosable car. The complexity of the F makes some shops/people not experienced enough, and with the headers/tune one dealer didn't want to spend more than an hour on it. Plus the issue comes and goes..

Just the territory of modding your daily I guess. I'd be less stressed if it was my second car, but I will say it's gotten me to work every day lol.

 

This is why I returned my F to almost stock form. Besides AOS and intake elbow. Not one place around me wanted to touch my car with all FBO. But My F is my weekend car.
Are you still having issues?

 

Doesn't the RR Racing intake require their ECU tune? Not sure how that intake would function without a tune.

Why not put the stock airbox back?

 

?? I have their tune. Have ran it with their tuned intake and on stock tune with stock box. Both run fine.

 

Did you add all the modifications at once or was it the exhaust/headers first?

Only ideas I have for you are:

1. Data logging with a a laptop and have someone look at the values.

2. Put the stock intake and stock tune back and drive it for a while.

3. Get a custom dyno tune done. I was never a fan of the off the shelf maps, coming from a 2004 WRX STi that ran like crap with a Cobb Stage 2 off the shelf map until a tuner fixed it.

 

Take the "FBO" aftermarket parts off and return the car to stock. Hopefully you have the oem parts. In the future, buy a car that hasn't been modified. These cars are quite reliable when they aren't modified with junk parts and "retuned" by amateur outfits. And yes, IMO anything outside of an OEM is an amateur, with very few exceptions.

 

Sorry guys but all the answers are up top. Car was bought modified yes, but ran flawlessly for 2k+ miles with me and more with the previous owner and there are many people running this exact setup for many miles. I’ve diagnosed the majority of the jerky driving and bad KCLV to a bad MAF sensor. Car is running fine and pulls fine. I’m just left diagnosing the noise, which several people have pointed out to me is VVTI or cam gear motor or chain related and I’m not the first with similar sound even with stock cars.

I’ve ran the car with stock air box and tune and with tuned intake and tune with same result, as I’ve mentioned on at least 3 posts up top. Telling me to put it back back to stock once again sounds stupid and not like a solution to the problem. I understand where you and the dealer are coming from but I just expect more from this forum..

Datalogging is on the todo list this week for sure.

 

Agreed^^^These cars are extremely reliable stock and modified (FBO) even our fully modified NA motor is not that modified compared to forced induction motors that are tinkered with. You have 4 things that make this car FBO:

1. Tuned Intake from RR Racing which has a specific tune for the enlarged MAF portion of the intake pipe
2. Tune
3. Headers
4. Exhaust.....This can be debatable as a mod that would cause any engine issues at all.....more of a supporting part in conjunction with other motor breathing mods like headers and intake

Let us know what you find out when you data log

 

This. Return it to stock is the answer when you can’t work on a car yourself and nobody around you will fix it for you. If you return it to stock, it’ll get you dealer help... but the problem will still exist. Just figure out the actual issue. This will **** some people off, but if your lazy.... don’t mod your car. OP doesn’t seem lazy, so he will figure it out.