IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

Suspension opinions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-31-20, 02:39 PM
  #61  
Wh0pp3r
Intermediate
 
Wh0pp3r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 482
Received 87 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
The OEM bushings like a little toe-in if you want to manage tire wear. Once you put a stiffer rear LCA bushing in the front you can get away with a little toe-out and the car will turn in better. It won't trail brake as well though. I'll take consistent over squishy any day.

Springs and shocks won't hurt anything, but if the dampers are not leaking and the springs aren't sagging unevenly, they're not the root cause of this wear issue. You'd see cupping if there were a problem there.

Quick refresher in this thread:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...alignment.html
Did a quick check when I installed a temp tire on the car, and i didnt see any seepage or visible sag on that side. i did hear a little clunking from the passenger side when i had to move it. so ill hopefully get it to the shop sometime next week and get it in the air, im wondering if possibly the upper shock mount is damaged. he showed me the pot hole, and this MF is deep and wide.

i saw on your thread you went with the FIGS units first for the control arm bushings, and figure id go that route since im keeping this thing mainly street driven.
Old 02-06-20, 03:02 PM
  #62  
Wh0pp3r
Intermediate
 
Wh0pp3r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 482
Received 87 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

hey lobuxracer

Would you suggest i just get the 80 durometer bushings from figs? since my car isn't going to be tracked? or rr-racing model perhaps?
Old 02-06-20, 05:07 PM
  #63  
lobuxracer
Tech Info Resource
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (2)
 
lobuxracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 22,450
Received 4,082 Likes on 2,474 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Wh0pp3r
hey lobuxracer

Would you suggest i just get the 80 durometer bushings from figs? since my car isn't going to be tracked? or rr-racing model perhaps?
Either will be fine if you don't want to toe it in some. If I wanted to run the OEM bushings, I'd probably go 0.4 degrees toe in on both sides so it is at or near zero under braking. Also be sure the OEM bushing haven't degraded and turned into mush. No amount of toe in will fix that.
Old 02-06-20, 05:54 PM
  #64  
McPierson
Instructor
iTrader: (3)
 
McPierson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 813
Received 180 Likes on 99 Posts
Default

I believe I ordered the 80 and FiGs contacted me and recommended 90 even for a car not seeing the track.

btw I noticed no change in noise or harshness.
Old 02-07-20, 10:21 AM
  #65  
Wh0pp3r
Intermediate
 
Wh0pp3r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 482
Received 87 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Either will be fine if you don't want to toe it in some. If I wanted to run the OEM bushings, I'd probably go 0.4 degrees toe in on both sides so it is at or near zero under braking. Also be sure the OEM bushing haven't degraded and turned into mush. No amount of toe in will fix that.
thank you for the quick reply, very appreciative of what you shared here. my main goal is better wear since this car is mainly a weekend cruiser for me. if i can achieve that better wear with oe rims, bigger tires (to help with comfort), new oe bushings, and your spec sheet, that would be ideal and cost effective for me.

even considering new shocks all around.

it has oe size tires and considering doing the tire size upgrade since i am due for rubber anyway (my 09 has that harsh stiffer suspension). ive been consistently seeing 245/40/19 F and 275/35-19 R as a size upgrade with minimal changes to the odometer reading and no rubbing/ modification to fenders, is that the size your running for your spec sheet. or after market wheels?



Originally Posted by McPierson
I believe I ordered the 80 and FiGs contacted me and recommended 90 even for a car not seeing the track.

btw I noticed no change in noise or harshness.
im unfortunately having to take cost into consideration. if i can get away with oe and achieve better wear for now, ill go that route for now till im done with school.

Last edited by Wh0pp3r; 02-07-20 at 10:26 AM.
Old 02-07-20, 04:11 PM
  #66  
McPierson
Instructor
iTrader: (3)
 
McPierson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 813
Received 180 Likes on 99 Posts
Default

I believe the RC bushing is a compromise between the OEM and poly. Do a search to be sure it fits.
Old 02-07-20, 04:29 PM
  #67  
lobuxracer
Tech Info Resource
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (2)
 
lobuxracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 22,450
Received 4,082 Likes on 2,474 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Wh0pp3r
thank you for the quick reply, very appreciative of what you shared here. my main goal is better wear since this car is mainly a weekend cruiser for me. if i can achieve that better wear with oe rims, bigger tires (to help with comfort), new oe bushings, and your spec sheet, that would be ideal and cost effective for me.

even considering new shocks all around.

it has oe size tires and considering doing the tire size upgrade since i am due for rubber anyway (my 09 has that harsh stiffer suspension). ive been consistently seeing 245/40/19 F and 275/35-19 R as a size upgrade with minimal changes to the odometer reading and no rubbing/ modification to fenders, is that the size your running for your spec sheet. or after market wheels?





im unfortunately having to take cost into consideration. if i can get away with oe and achieve better wear for now, ill go that route for now till im done with school.
If money is the prime issue, just set the toe to +0.04 degrees on both sides. It will give enough toe in to prevent inside edge wear, and if you're just cruising, it will work fine. Also - my previous post says 0.4. That's wrong. It's 0.04 degrees.
The following users liked this post:
Wh0pp3r (02-07-20)
Old 02-07-20, 05:12 PM
  #68  
Wh0pp3r
Intermediate
 
Wh0pp3r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 482
Received 87 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
If money is the prime issue, just set the toe to +0.04 degrees on both sides. It will give enough toe in to prevent inside edge wear, and if you're just cruising, it will work fine. Also - my previous post says 0.4. That's wrong. It's 0.04 degrees.
So i called the dealer and they are telling me that, these are called lower control arm brackets. and apparently there to variants with +20 or -20 offset?

im guessing i have to check mine specifically to verify which i have?
Old 02-07-20, 06:23 PM
  #69  
lobuxracer
Tech Info Resource
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (2)
 
lobuxracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 22,450
Received 4,082 Likes on 2,474 Posts
Default

Don't waste any money on that unless your caster is bad. From what I saw, it's not. Ordinary units will be fine if you are replacing them.

IS F - 2008
48075-30020 BRACKET SUB-ASSY, LWR ARM, NO,1
48076-30020 BRACKET SUB-ASSY, LWR ARM, NO.2

GS F - maybe a little stiffer
48075-24010 BRACKET SUB-ASSY, LWR ARM, NO,1
48076-24010 BRACKET SUB-ASSY, LWR ARM, NO.2

If you really want to go cheap, I can send you two virgin bushings without mounts. I had them pressed out to put the solid bushings in the OEM brackets. You would need to have someone press them into your brackets, but they've never been on a car. PM me if you want them. I was going to toss them.
Old 02-08-20, 09:40 AM
  #70  
Wh0pp3r
Intermediate
 
Wh0pp3r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 482
Received 87 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Don't waste any money on that unless your caster is bad. From what I saw, it's not. Ordinary units will be fine if you are replacing them.

IS F - 2008
48075-30020 BRACKET SUB-ASSY, LWR ARM, NO,1
48076-30020 BRACKET SUB-ASSY, LWR ARM, NO.2

GS F - maybe a little stiffer
48075-24010 BRACKET SUB-ASSY, LWR ARM, NO,1
48076-24010 BRACKET SUB-ASSY, LWR ARM, NO.2

If you really want to go cheap, I can send you two virgin bushings without mounts. I had them pressed out to put the solid bushings in the OEM brackets. You would need to have someone press them into your brackets, but they've never been on a car. PM me if you want them. I was going to toss them.
Ohh hell yeah id be happy to pay for em and shipping if you'd like.
Old 02-12-20, 11:40 PM
  #71  
Wh0pp3r
Intermediate
 
Wh0pp3r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 482
Received 87 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

You the man lobuxracer!...

Got the bushings today, pressing in tomorrow. Hopefully getting the bushing install

/ alignment/ tires on Monday.
Old 03-13-20, 12:33 PM
  #72  
Lokitsdrew
Driver School Candidate
 
Lokitsdrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: CA
Posts: 38
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
If money is the prime issue, just set the toe to +0.04 degrees on both sides. It will give enough toe in to prevent inside edge wear, and if you're just cruising, it will work fine. Also - my previous post says 0.4. That's wrong. It's 0.04 degrees.
isn’t it -0.04, that was what was on your spec sheet in 2020
Old 03-13-20, 05:28 PM
  #73  
lobuxracer
Tech Info Resource
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (2)
 
lobuxracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 22,450
Received 4,082 Likes on 2,474 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Lokitsdrew
isn’t it -0.04, that was what was on your spec sheet in 2020
Ummm. Yup. That would be -0.04. Toe in is positive and toe out is negative. Front goes toe out (-0.04), rear goes toe in (0.12) each side.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ne1tHeRe
RC F (2015-present)
37
03-09-22 05:22 AM
totora
IS - 3rd Gen (2014-present)
3
02-21-17 10:34 PM
Ken167
Suspension and Brakes
7
08-10-16 03:24 PM
NYC ES3
IS F (2008-2014)
7
07-17-13 11:31 AM
Seattle350
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
5
05-09-06 06:37 PM



Quick Reply: Suspension opinions



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:22 PM.