Eurofreak

Has anyone replaced their own rear wheel bearing on the ISF? Pretty sure the rear groaning noise I have from the right rear is my bearing, especially after getting new tires and still having the issue.
Is the job as simple as removing the caliper/rotor and unbolting the axle and hub or do I need to mess with any of the links? I have yet to work on the suspension on this car but this also isn't my first rodeo.
Reason I ask is I was about to get an alignment so I don't shred my new tires, but don't want to have to do this again if this job will affect my alignment.
Cheers

EDIT: I've attached a DIY someone created for the LS430. Is the ISF a similar process?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Yes, very similar. Same dust deflector making the whole thing unnecessarily complex and challenging.

FNSSESPORT

I did my IS250 a few months back (which is the exact same as the F) and second this: the dust deflector is a major pain. Those instructions are pretty good though. The deflector is press-fit onto the hub, which isn't the easiest. I'm in Canada, so I had ad a ton of corrosion issues and actually had to remove (not just remove, cut out) the whole knuckle assembly, the deflector was a pain to get on with the knuckle assembly removed, so I imagine it's going to be a bigger pain with the knuckle assembly in place. - I don't know if it will even be possible. TIS manual indicates removing the whole knuckle assembly to install a new wheel bearing assembly. Ensure you don't rotate the deflector when the speed sensor is installed or you'll shear the end of the speed sensor off. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
This is what the assembly looks like not attached to the car if you're curious:

It was impossible to remove the hub because i) it was corroded in place and, ii) the deflector was corroded onto the hub as well

This is a good pic of the deflector pressed onto the back of the hub

Toyoboy

I did all four of mine a few months ago. The rears were a pain but figured it out after breaking a wheel speed sensor

Eurofreak

Thanks for the input. I'm hopefully tackling this tomorrow. Does a 32mm deep socket sound right for the IS-F axle nut too? The LS instructions mention this size but I'd need to go buy one. How did you guys go about torquing this to the 214ftlbs? My torque wrench goes to 150, but suppose i can give it another crank by feel?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I have a 30" Snap On Techangle torque wrench that goes to 300 ft-lbs for this kind of stuff.

32mm or 1 1/4" (I tested mine and it fit perfectly). Not especially deep at all, but better if it is impact.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Small point of interest - the magazines all claimed Lexus used stiffer bushings in the rear of the IS F. A part number search says this is total BS. All 2IS use the same knuckle with the exact same bushings as well as some GS models. So much for the magazines reporting anything accurately.

So the only thing mechanically different is the toe control link, and it actually measures out differently according to the service manual and the parts info, and even that is for a very limited date range. The only other thing different across the model years (besides the brand of shocks) is the bump stop and lower spring perch changed in 11-08.

And that Snappy torque wrench is the ATECH3FR300B.

I also checked both 32mm and 1 1/4 on the nut. It is a 12 point, so don't make the mistake of getting a 6 point socket, but either work just fine. Beware it will take either a strong air tool or a very long bar to break the nut loose. At least 3 feet if doing it by hand.

Eurofreak

Thanks for the info. I finally got this done, sort of. I could not pull out the speed sensor. After trying to extract it with pliers, vice grip and screwdriver for an hour, I ended up mangling it and drilling the rest of it out. I'm guessing not normal.
Now I'm waiting on a new sensor but I was able to drive the car and I'm finally free of the rhythmic hmmm, hmmm, hmmm sound at 80mph.