Rainheart

Hey everyone, can anyone recommend a reputable shop to do an PPE headers install in the PNW area? I'm located in Seattle, but more than happy to drive north/south 200 miles or so to have it installed by a reputable shop.

I've been putting off replacing my stock cracked headers for far too long.

Appreciate any help!

YoungPNW

Stage Auto Center in Kirkland

https://stageautocenter.com/

Install will run you about $1k

Good luck!!

ISFpowered

WOW! Talk about a rip off. If your even remotely mechanically inclined and have tools or know someone who does I recommend you doing it yourself or with a friend. I can think of many things I rather spend $1000 on then give someone that for labor to install headers. It’s not a bad install just time consuming. I did mine on my drive in my back no problem.

YoungPNW

All power to you!!

He asked for a reputable shop recommendation and that’s what he was given.

Cheers!

Rainheart

Thanks for the info! I'll give them a call.

I'm also giving DamnFastDD in Auburn, Washington (they hosted an ISF meet) and VIP Performance in Portland, Oregon (from a suggestion I found in CL forum) a call to see what they can offer.

As a side-note, I'm all about working on your own car, but I'm honestly not comfortable with doing the headers install. If you are, I wish I lived closer to you so I can leverage some of that knowledge!

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I just pulled my starter today. It's half the header job. I can see this going pretty quickly once you have some task familiarity. The hardest part of the whole thing is checking and adjusting alignment when you're done. Tedious, sure, but hard? Not really.

BTW, you would be wise to plan on new O2 sensors with your headers. Many have had serious problems removing them from the OEM header.

I'd also highly suggest you look at your mileage and make a reasonable decision about servicing the starter. The solenoid is these units is known to fail anywhere from 85k miles to (mine) 177k miles. Most of us have just put in a Denso rebuilt unit from Rock Auto and called it a day, but it's really only the Bendix that dies. Anyway, it makes sense to poke at it while you have the OEM exhaust off and before you put the headers on.

Rainheart

Hey lobux, appreciate the feedback!

You read my mind. She's a 2011, sitting at 137k miles, and based on the reading here on the forum, it seems like it's a good time to get the starter replaced. Here's what I plan to replace:

PPE Headers w/ Ceramic Coating
Denso Starter Motor
RR Racing Motor Mounts
Denso O2 234-9048 (x2) (Upstream)
Denso O2 234-4521 (x2) (Downstream)

Anything else I need to add while everything is off?

Toprawman

Look into getting the RR Racing Ultimate Steering Response System or the Figs Racing LCA while your at it.

Wh0pp3r

i bought 4 studs juuuuuuuuuuuuuuust incase. figure better to have and not need then to...

msgs350

iTrader: (2)

I don’t think you need the downstream ones unless you’re removing the exhaust

ISpurFect

I have talked to Ishii Motors in Bellevue before as they are a PPE Dealer. If you are bringing your own parts they charge more... with the recommended gaskets and O2 sensors I swear it was closer to $2k they wanted for the install and I held off however they were extremely knowledgable. I tried to get in contact with Intec Racing in Kent but never got a response this was via email on their website - they were also a distributor for PPE however I heard good things from a buddy that had a different vehicle and had a lot of work done and a member here with an IS-F.

msgs350

iTrader: (2)

Good call on the new gaskets! Intec did my PPE install a couple years ago. Try giving them a call and ask for Lawrence. I think they are open Tue-Sat.

YoungPNW

They're very reputable as well! And as mentioned, on the higher side for labor costs. They will advise to do the spark plugs at the same time if you’re near the interval.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

So I will say having poly bushings and solid bushings on the LCAs in my car made lowering the subframe MUCH easier, and saved me from having to loosen those bolts so the subframe would easily drop. I also disconnected the steering rack from the subframe and the steering wheel to drop it even lower so I could pull the shields and motor mounts out from the front. Once the motor mounts are off, it's stupid easy to get to the header bolts. If you don't live in the rust belt, you'll not need any exhaust studs. Mine were picture perfect and I was able to spin the nuts off once I cracked them loose. If you live in the rust belt, you have my condolences, and you can ignore anything I say about how easy it is to remove stuff under the car.

FFM

I think I had my Sikky V2’s in, which require slight modification to the right side engine mount I think it was, within I think 4 hours. I’d hope a shop would be able to do it for less than 1k. Otherwise they are making out like a bandit.