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I'm pretty sure the K&N is the culprit here. I don't like oiled filters. They're perforated condoms IMHO from running them on many bikes over the years.
^^^^IMHO, when used properly an oiled air filter works as it should. I ran a K&N oiled filter in my ISF for a couple of years than an aFe oiled filter. When I reoil my I filters i follow the directions and let them drain overnight before reinstallation. Never had an issue
The filter is drying over night. What should I do with oil build up in the pipe. Should I clean it? If so how? What material to use? This is how the pipe looks like (see images)
Thank you everyone for the help
Originally Posted by ultimase
So start cheap and work your way expensive. As mentioned above since it's a common thing to both sides, it points to a common issue. I'd suspect the maf, especially with a k and n filter. I'd replace the filter with a oem air filter, then try to cleaning the intake tubing and the maf. If this doesn't work I'd start considering the more expensive items, MAF etc.
That's a good amount of build up in the intake, I'd be worried what the MAF sensor look like. Give it a shot cleaning it with electronic cleaner and see if you can find the method for testing it.
In a naturally aspirated engine you'll never be under positive pressure, always negative to zero, this sucks air in, if this air is being sucked in after the maf it's unmetered air and would result in a lean condition.
In boosted applications you can be under positive pressure and negative pressure, if you have a leak after the maf then air would be sucked in during idle and off boost resulting in a lean condition, but under boost metered air would be pushed out of the tubing resulting in a rich condition.
Might be worth messaging this member in this thread as well as it sounds similar.
The engine has a wideband O2, so neither of these things apply unless you're more than 20% off with fueling which would likely be an audible leak.
If it were mine, I'd clean the MAF first and run some injector cleaner like BG44K. You can clean the intake tube with anything you like, it won't be a big deal since that tube follows the MAF and the MAF is a primary source for tune information.
As I've seen same code appear on friends ISF. He picked up 08 ISF with 150k miles on it. When we check his filter it looked like it had not been changed in yrs it was completely clogged up. We went to dealer I'm in my ISF pick up new oem filter stopped at automotive parts store pick up CRC MAF Cleaner and CRC Quick Clean or any automotive cleaning solvent even Gunk engine degreaser will work. Cleaned MAF, it's DIY very easy to do. Replaced oem filter cleaned intake tube with CRC Quick Clean replaced everything. Then cleared codes with my scan tool you get just disconnect battery or pull ETCS & EFI fuses. I prefer removing fuses its proper way. He took it for nice trip 50 miles or (80.5km)away turned around and came back another 50 miles problem solved no more codes.
I got this same issue years ago when this car was new to me. First thing I did was drop in an AFE filter which was oiled. Within 6 months, these same codes and symptoms appeared. Switched to the OEM filter, cleaned MAF and it was fine. Not too long after, I switched to the Takeda intake, that was 9 years ago, still using it, no power gains lol but its been fine since.
I watched your video. Your car is fine. It's just something minor but finding it may be a little detective work. A properly oiled K&N is likely fine. But one that Joe Schmoe does in his back yard, kinda winging it? yeah, problem.
I would check the port fuel injectors first to see if they are leaking since you have a code for it. If you don’t have the tools to check the injectors, I would call a repair shop that have a diagnostician to check your vehicle. You will probably spend more money trying to throw parts at it.
Watched a comparison of filters on youtube a while ago where a guy check how many paticles a filter filters (by dumping flour on the filter and having an air particle count device after the filter).
Watched a comparison of filters on youtube a while ago where a guy check how many paticles a filter filters (by dumping flour on the filter and having an air particle count device after the filter).
Basically the high-airflow filters (only K&N is a high airflow filter, the others are usual filters) don't filter very well.
I have seen similar studies in the past and preferred oem for that reason. I’m running aftermarket now, but recognize that filtering is probably not as good.
I've run everything including nothing at all on an intake. You're trading engine service life for "ultimate" performance. The whole point of filtration is to minimize engine wear. Specifically rings, pistons, valves, and valve guides. The thing I can tell you without question is, if you run any gauze filter you will allow more particles into the engine than if you run a paper filter. IMHO, you might as well just run a metal screen as it will do as good a job as any gauze filter will. If you're OK with rebuilding the engine because the valve guides, valve stems, pistons, and rings are no longer working up to snuff, run whatever you like. Just don't expect to run any of these "high performance" filters (high performance does not mean filtering performance at all) and not pay the price, or pass it on to someone else when your lease expires or you expect to trade the car.
I keep my cars for a very long time. I am not interested in unnecessarily rebuilding the engine in my DD because I needed an extra 2 hp that I only see on those brief occasions where I got WOT. This to me is a whole lot like running without catalytic converters. Sure you might gain a couple of ponies, but you're polluting the air and forcing me to accept your choice because you think you need a few hp more. Not vibing that at all. It speaks to a very real lack of responsibility to the community where you live.
If your goal is to post a big number dyno of your super hot rod, take the filter out, dyno the car, then put the filter back in when you're done. No one will know the difference. Just like no one knows what fuel you put in the tank when you dyno'd your car. You can buy 100 octane "pump gas" at a number of gas stations and go dyno your car with fuel very unlikely to detonate, get your print out, and go back to running whatever premium is available where you are and again, no one knows the difference. Looking at videos of street races online, I can honestly say I've never seen one where even a 10 hp difference made the outcome change. The vast majority of these events are a complete thrashing. So, pick your poison, know there's a cost associated with it, and decide how long you're going to keep your ride. The few ponies you gain from most of this stuff isn't making a difference to anyone but you in your head.
Thank you, everyone, for replying. I replaced K&N filter with OEM. Actually I haven't noticed any loss of power. And it sounds the same to me (stock). I cannot say for fuel-efficiency yet.
But. I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes to reset the computer and now passenger and backseat windows does not work. I did disconnect plus first. I forgot you should first disconnect minus. Is it the fuse? How do I check those? Can I replace bad one myself or I should take it to the service so I don't mess anything up?
Thank you, everyone, for replying. I replaced K&N filter with OEM. Actually I haven't noticed any loss of power. And it sounds the same to me (stock). I cannot say for fuel-efficiency yet.
But. I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes to reset the computer and now passenger and backseat windows does not work. I did disconnect plus first. I forgot you should first disconnect minus. Is it the fuse? How do I check those? Can I replace bad one myself or I should take it to the service so I don't mess anything up?
go to each window, sunroof and manually low them all the way down and up. You’re done.
I've run everything including nothing at all on an intake. You're trading engine service life for "ultimate" performance. The whole point of filtration is to minimize engine wear. Specifically rings, pistons, valves, and valve guides. The thing I can tell you without question is, if you run any gauze filter you will allow more particles into the engine than if you run a paper filter. IMHO, you might as well just run a metal screen as it will do as good a job as any gauze filter will. If you're OK with rebuilding the engine because the valve guides, valve stems, pistons, and rings are no longer working up to snuff, run whatever you like. Just don't expect to run any of these "high performance" filters (high performance does not mean filtering performance at all) and not pay the price, or pass it on to someone else when your lease expires or you expect to trade the car.
I keep my cars for a very long time. I am not interested in unnecessarily rebuilding the engine in my DD because I needed an extra 2 hp that I only see on those brief occasions where I got WOT. This to me is a whole lot like running without catalytic converters. Sure you might gain a couple of ponies, but you're polluting the air and forcing me to accept your choice because you think you need a few hp more. Not vibing that at all. It speaks to a very real lack of responsibility to the community where you live.
If your goal is to post a big number dyno of your super hot rod, take the filter out, dyno the car, then put the filter back in when you're done. No one will know the difference. Just like no one knows what fuel you put in the tank when you dyno'd your car. You can buy 100 octane "pump gas" at a number of gas stations and go dyno your car with fuel very unlikely to detonate, get your print out, and go back to running whatever premium is available where you are and again, no one knows the difference. Looking at videos of street races online, I can honestly say I've never seen one where even a 10 hp difference made the outcome change. The vast majority of these events are a complete thrashing. So, pick your poison, know there's a cost associated with it, and decide how long you're going to keep your ride. The few ponies you gain from most of this stuff isn't making a difference to anyone but you in your head.
I once knew a national-level SCCA Solo2 autocross driver who used a screen-door metal mesh instead of a filter. This blew my mind since we were ripping around dusty, dirty parking lots all day at these events.
04-28-20, 04:04 PM
