Purchased ISF two weeks ago and this happened
#31
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Under an IS F since 2008
Posts: 13,441
Received 1,064 Likes
on
586 Posts
This will reactivate the one touch down & up at each switch and also at the Master Switch.. Be sure the Master Switch is not in child lock mode
Joe Z
The following users liked this post:
Vervish (05-05-20)
#32
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Under an IS F since 2008
Posts: 13,441
Received 1,064 Likes
on
586 Posts
I once knew a national-level SCCA Solo2 autocross driver who used a screen-door metal mesh instead of a filter. This blew my mind since we were ripping around dusty, dirty parking lots all day at these events.
Interested in your perspective on the "dry" filter options now on the market, do you lump these with the other "high performance" oiled filters and recommend OEM paper filter for best protection?
A'PEXi:
https://apexi-usa.com/power-intake-p...-gs-f-and-rc-f
aFe:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-31-10...y-s-air-filter
Interested in your perspective on the "dry" filter options now on the market, do you lump these with the other "high performance" oiled filters and recommend OEM paper filter for best protection?
A'PEXi:
https://apexi-usa.com/power-intake-p...-gs-f-and-rc-f
aFe:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-31-10...y-s-air-filter
Back to Drop in Filters, there is ONLY one I dry filter I would trust over OEM.. Specifically Made in Japan for the IS F / RC F / GS F
BLITZ SUS POWER AIR FILTER LM / POWER AIR FILTER LMD
I finally just got mine from my good friends @ModInJapan
Joe Z
Last edited by Joe Z; 05-05-20 at 07:48 AM.
The following users liked this post:
NorrinRadd (05-05-20)
#33
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I once knew a national-level SCCA Solo2 autocross driver who used a screen-door metal mesh instead of a filter. This blew my mind since we were ripping around dusty, dirty parking lots all day at these events.
Interested in your perspective on the "dry" filter options now on the market, do you lump these with the other "high performance" oiled filters and recommend OEM paper filter for best protection?
A'PEXi:
https://apexi-usa.com/power-intake-p...-gs-f-and-rc-f
aFe:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-31-10...y-s-air-filter
Interested in your perspective on the "dry" filter options now on the market, do you lump these with the other "high performance" oiled filters and recommend OEM paper filter for best protection?
A'PEXi:
https://apexi-usa.com/power-intake-p...-gs-f-and-rc-f
aFe:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-31-10...y-s-air-filter
FWIW, dirt doesn't affect performance instantly. It kills an engine over time, and power drops off faster. Dirt is always the worst enemy when assembling an engine again because it accelerates wear. All your filters are doing it preventing dirt/contaminants from circulating through the engine. There are fully metal filters for air and oil that never need to be replaced, only cleaned on occasion. Oberg has been making metal oil filters for ages, and they do work well.
The following users liked this post:
ChpEng (05-05-20)
#34
Driver School Candidate
Sorry, meant for this to go in this thread.
Hey all, relatively new to the community because I just purchased my 2013 IS F (72k miles) last year and been too lazy to post pics and introduce. I've had these same codes twice now, once last August when it was dead middle of summer in Phx and just the other day on one of first 100 degree days - this time only check engine light + traction control off lights vs. all the lights OP listed. Does warmer air add to the trigger of this issue? I never have had one problem during cooler temps. When it happened in Aug, I freaked out and took it to Autozone that night to get the code then took to dealership to troubleshoot in morning. After answering some questions they felt that perhaps it was the fuel quality I had just put in as I did notice the fuel truck there while I was filling up and they said that that can cause contaminants in the underground tank to reach my tank and cause an issue so I had them do a fuel service because I had no service records and they put some octane booster in the tank and reset the codes and couldn't get it to trip again. At that time, I had a stock intake with afe dry filter. I now have the RR tuned intake and carbon fiber elbow. Everything I'm reading here is pretty consistent with my experience but the difference is I've had both types of filters unless the K&N that the RR setup comes with is not oiled. Then I have no idea what is going on because it's all brand new parts (installed in Feb I think), I wouldn't think I have that much buildup on the MAF sensor. So think the consensus for me is to either clean the MAF sensor or just reset the ECU first to determine if it trips again? I did not experience the slow start or loss of power on this go round but did the first. Appreciate it!
Hey all, relatively new to the community because I just purchased my 2013 IS F (72k miles) last year and been too lazy to post pics and introduce. I've had these same codes twice now, once last August when it was dead middle of summer in Phx and just the other day on one of first 100 degree days - this time only check engine light + traction control off lights vs. all the lights OP listed. Does warmer air add to the trigger of this issue? I never have had one problem during cooler temps. When it happened in Aug, I freaked out and took it to Autozone that night to get the code then took to dealership to troubleshoot in morning. After answering some questions they felt that perhaps it was the fuel quality I had just put in as I did notice the fuel truck there while I was filling up and they said that that can cause contaminants in the underground tank to reach my tank and cause an issue so I had them do a fuel service because I had no service records and they put some octane booster in the tank and reset the codes and couldn't get it to trip again. At that time, I had a stock intake with afe dry filter. I now have the RR tuned intake and carbon fiber elbow. Everything I'm reading here is pretty consistent with my experience but the difference is I've had both types of filters unless the K&N that the RR setup comes with is not oiled. Then I have no idea what is going on because it's all brand new parts (installed in Feb I think), I wouldn't think I have that much buildup on the MAF sensor. So think the consensus for me is to either clean the MAF sensor or just reset the ECU first to determine if it trips again? I did not experience the slow start or loss of power on this go round but did the first. Appreciate it!
#35
Rr racing tune, larger intake
Been talking to a few other members and seems at some time we had the P1170 hanging around on the code list.
On mine it does not pop up the lights etc but my code reader finds it silently in memory.
Seems it is consistent with some others that have the same tune and larger intake.
Tried checking for leaks and cleaning. At times it may go many thousands of distance before it would show up.
On mine it does not pop up the lights etc but my code reader finds it silently in memory.
Seems it is consistent with some others that have the same tune and larger intake.
Tried checking for leaks and cleaning. At times it may go many thousands of distance before it would show up.
#37
Intermediate
iTrader: (1)
They are still using gauze. It won't filter as well as paper. It's somewhere between a metal screen and a paper filter in filtering performance, so you'll experience accelerated valve stem and valve guide wear compared to paper, but much less than a metal screen or open intake.
FWIW, dirt doesn't affect performance instantly. It kills an engine over time, and power drops off faster. Dirt is always the worst enemy when assembling an engine again because it accelerates wear. All your filters are doing it preventing dirt/contaminants from circulating through the engine. There are fully metal filters for air and oil that never need to be replaced, only cleaned on occasion. Oberg has been making metal oil filters for ages, and they do work well.
FWIW, dirt doesn't affect performance instantly. It kills an engine over time, and power drops off faster. Dirt is always the worst enemy when assembling an engine again because it accelerates wear. All your filters are doing it preventing dirt/contaminants from circulating through the engine. There are fully metal filters for air and oil that never need to be replaced, only cleaned on occasion. Oberg has been making metal oil filters for ages, and they do work well.
I like to drive mountain roads and on two other sporty cars with factory cold-air-type intake tubing I have found pine needles or small leaves impaling the OEM gauze-type air filters. So for those cars at least I intuitively felt more comfortable with screen-mesh-type filters, like K&N.
With this vehicle's secondary airbox opening into the fenderwell, my thinking was that it will naturally suction up just about any lightweight debris that makes its way into the area. Here are a couple photos of the OEM air filter I replaced a couple months ago. This particular filter certainly needed to be replaced, but I was impressed with the robustness of the paper media.
Upstream (dirty) side of filter. Note small leaf embedded at top left. I found a few small twigs as well.
Downstream (clean) side of filter, note "print-through" of dusty grime in a few spots.
Maybe the best of both worlds is an custom upstream screen mesh with the OEM paper filter...
#38
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Heavy equipment used in rock quarries typically has multiple paper filtering elements inline to provide extremely high performance filtering of dust. Those filters are not cheap, but rebuilding those engines is extremely expensive. You have to find the balance with service life, performance, and repair cost.
#40
Moderator
It is disappointing to hear that aftermarket filters don’t filter as well, but I’m not surprised. If non paper filters were as efficient, manufacturers would consider using them for performance gains. I’ve never seen one in OEM trim.
#41
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (9)
^^^^I don't know about that Over the past two or three years I've become a fan of Wix filter products. I've been impressed with the quality of their oil filters I used a Wix XP oil filter in my ISF and now in my LC. When the time comes I'll be replacing the air filters with Wix products.
Lou
Lou
#42
Intermediate
iTrader: (1)
Ford has factory-fit cotton gauze cone filters in the high-end Mustang line (GT350/500) for years. Ford Performance markets them for the Mustang and Foci aftermarket. Interestingly, the Dodge Hellcat comes with a paper element filter that has a ~50% higher flow rating (cfm) than the lesser R/T filters.
#43
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
^^^^I don't know about that Over the past two or three years I've become a fan of Wix filter products. I've been impressed with the quality of their oil filters I used a Wix XP oil filter in my ISF and now in my LC. When the time comes I'll be replacing the air filters with Wix products.
Lou
Lou
The following users liked this post:
lobuxracer (05-14-20)
#45
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I know. I'm running them in both my Lexus Fs. It's the oil filter I had problems with because of the end caps.