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Well, no luck with pulling the stems, tried on all 4 sensors. tried letting one all the way out. nothing. Guess I'll swing by discount and see if they have a tool to tell if they are active
Did you input the correct sensor ID numbers into tech stream? I had mistyped one of mine before and had to take the tpms out to check the ID code again.
Yes, I have a picture of them and have input them several times. I even updated techstream to v16 and reinput them
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
How old are they?
I just purchased them from amazon last week. I suppose they could be counterfeit but if so they're very good ones
Those are identical to the ones I put in my car after the 2008 sensors started showing weak batteries in Techstream. I suspect the date code is right above the ID number, mine starts with 20, yours with 19 and I suspect that's the year of manufacture. Given mine lasted more than 12 years, I don't think age is the problem. It is weird none of them are communicating with the receiver. I know most of the tire places are a PITA about sensors - they want you to buy them there and charge you an obscene amount for them. Discount Tire said "We won't register these or guarantee them in any way" which was fine by me, I had my laptop with me and was able to enter the IDs myself right there. But there were no issues with signal transmission after I rolled about 50 feet.
Update: Took the car by a place called Tires to You, a very nice lady helped me out by scanning the sensors. As soon as she scanned the first one I knew it was a different ID than what I had a picture of, and it did show to be active and the battery good. So I took pics of the IDs her scanner showed. Correct me if I'm wrong but the ID number is the 7 digit alpha numeric string above the QR code, no? (pics below)
Programming story:
She tried to program them to the car but it failed twice, I told her I had access to the toyota software and would try it later. Loaded up techstream and input the codes from her scanner into 2nd set, I went to the data list still saw nothing BUT that I now had 5 codes tripped. C2111-C2114 (transmitter IDx Operation stop) was now showing up, quick google and that's the code to release the 6psi in 30sec for activation!!! After I released the pressure the tire PSI showed up in techstream. Right then the wife and kids got home so I shut the car off and didn't initialize the pressure. Just went back out and now the psi isnt showing up again. Also noticed her tool overwrote my main TPMS IDs (which thankfully I have a picture of) so when the laptop charges up ill give it another go.
The pics of the sensors were taken 10 days ago and I verified with the installer that they were the ones put in the wheels. Its a local performance shop that deals with GM/ford/mopar, they dont have denso sensors let alone tpms sensors laying around.
Pics:
After several attempts I still cannot get them properly programmed, I can get them to show data after registration and letting air out, but as soon as the car cycles power they stop showing data. I give up, I'm sending them back.
Did you drive the car after installing and getting the codes to read in Techstream?
Yes sir, just did that. I've noticed they take a long time to register any tire pressure change, or not at all while driving around. I also noticed with my old sensors once techstream detects them it clears the C2111-C2114 codes automatically. When the new sensors show data the codes will not clear. I ordered another set from summit who is listed as an authorized denso retailer so we'll find out if its user error or the sensors soon
honestly these are the most annoying inventions of all kinds, especially for people who bypass them and prefer to check pressures manually.
Either live with the light and put tape on or go through guessing like this if you got the right. one which also involves removing tire and reinstall a big PITA.
I went through the same thing with discount tire only they sent me ones for 2014 models, apparently it changed for those models and 2008-2013 use different ones. Are you sure they are for 08-13 or 14? Also I would only buy from Amazon directly no third parties, its a guessing game then unless a reputable dealer.
Just went to tire shop and specifically purchased compatible aftermarket ones (huff), and made sure they were able to clone the working oem ones I had on even before attempting any type of tire install.
Problem solved, I have oems going on 14 years and still working, only time will tell on the aftermarket ones, but so far its working like oem with absolutely no problems.
According to parts.lexus.com 2008-2014 ISFs all use the same TPMS part number 42607-33022. However, that is an updated part number from 42607-33021. You can also see that a part number change took place from Pacific (the manufacturer) 42607-33022 is PMV-C11A, and 42607-33021 is PMV-107J.
Denso, who also buys the sensors from Pacific lists their compatible part number as 550-0103. I could not find anything to suggest this number changed when Pacific updated the part number.
I bought mine from RockAuto. Genuine Denso, same part numbers you have for the ones you got. I wish there was a date code so you could be sure of how old they are. It would be trivial to get units from the junkyard, clean them up, and sell them as new which is why I bought from RockAuto. They can't afford to have someone discover they're selling used parts as new.
Didnt want to deal with researching the part #s. Made it so much easier just going to the tire shop and used the brand that they had been using for many years and also which they use on a daily basis, granted its not original and may not last 15 years, but so far no problems whatsoever with the huff brand I went with.
They cloned it there on the spot prior to any type of install and installed with zero issues/headaches.
The good news is I'm not the idiot who cant program a TPMS system. The bad news is I'm the idiot who bought counterfeit TPMS from a third party Amazon vendor and wasted a lot of time.
I registered the IDs, put them in an airtight container with a valve stem, pressurized it and they all popped up in techstream. The codes cleared, I cycled power on the car and they still showed up in techstream. problem solved.
I've attached comparison pictures, the biggest difference is the QR code and the other symbol in the middle. If you didn't know to look for separated individual dots on the QR code it would be very hard to tell without them side by side
The bad news is I'm the idiot who bought counterfeit TPMS from a third party Amazon vendor and wasted a lot of time.
Don't beat yourself up too much... it has happened to most of us at some point man. It's getting harder and harder... As you've shown they look almost identical so its an easy mistake to make.
Thanks for sharing the pics. One other thing I noticed: do the counterfeit ones not have have a hole in the little cutout below the stem (like above where it says "PMV-C11A") or is that just the angle of the picture? Just curious if we can find any other differences to better spot counterfeits.
Don't beat yourself up too much... it has happened to most of us at some point man. It's getting harder and harder... As you've shown they look almost identical so its an easy mistake to make.
Thanks for sharing the pics. One other thing I noticed: do the counterfeit ones not have have a hole in the little cutout below the stem (like above where it says "PMV-C11A") or is that just the angle of the picture? Just curious if we can find any other differences to better spot counterfeits.
there is a cutout its just the angle of the pics.
A few other things I've noticed:
the hole on the left side (Im assuming that where it actually reads pressure) the authentic has white inside the hole, the fake is black.
the lettering is mostly the same but the sizes vary, for example the T14 in the middle
(not pictured) the valve stem valves sit flush with the stem when inserted on the authentic sensors, on the fake ones its recessed into the stem which actually made it difficult to check pressure with the cheap tire pressure gauges
the box they came in was 97% identical to the real boxes, on the fake the color was a bit darker, the back lettering was just ever so slightly off, and the carboard was thinner. You couldn't tell if you didn't have both in hand.
Plenty of us have purchased fake spark plugs and the only way to be sure was by putting them side by side with the real deal. Not kidding about buying from RockAuto to be sure not to get a fake.
10-24-21, 07:36 AM
