We're a dealer for these if anyone is interested, can be found on our site.

-Josh

 

I didn’t know this. Thanks for sharing!

 

Spring sale announced at AG Batteries - 15% off with code "SS15"

 

I bought an AG-24-40-RS last summer and it's been sitting in the garage. I finally got around to installing it yesterday since my lead battery was getting weak.

First attempt it started, but it sounded/felt a bit weak. I shut it off and tried again, but it wouldn't start anymore. After a bunch of troubleshooting (a couple other batteries, checking all fuses, etc.) I determined that I have a bad starter. I used the trick of pulling the starter relay, bypassing the relay with a jumper, and got the loud starter click, but it didn't start.

Any thoughts if there is any correlation here between switching to a new lithium battery and a bad starter, or is it just a dumb coincidence? I have heard a low voltage battery can help kill a battery, but I've never experienced it before.

 

I can see a strong battery causing a starter to die specifically the contacts in the starter. More current and they finally give up the ghost.

 

Didn't Lowbux have the same thing happen.

 

Yes I did. I had ~155k miles on the engine when this happened. If you want to fix the actual problem, get a new starter solenoid and call it good. I have two of them on the shelf right now along with all the necessary plastics should I have this issue any time soon. Most just order a reman Denso starter (as I did the first time) from someone like RockAuto and replace the whole unit. IME, the starter motor and gearset are still in fine shape when the contacts give out on the solenoid. I replaced the contacts in the solenoid on my Supra (not the whole starter) and I am still running the 1993 built unit.

 

@lobuxracer Do you think it was a coincidence? It sounds like both of our starters died after switching to a new powerful lithium battery.
And if you have any pointers to easily replace the starer, that'd be appreciated. It looks like the suggested factory way is to pull the motor/trans and the dealer is quoting 12.5 hrs! I found some info on FB that you don't need to pull the motor/trans, but I haven't found enough details to try it myself. I want to make sure I can do it at home safely. The Silkky header install video drops the subframe on a lift using a spin jack to hold up the motor, which may be difficult to do on a QuickJack.

 

I think it was utter coincidence.

The easy way is to drop the subframe. There's a really good piece on this using a Quick Jack with pics here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...w-build-9.html

I put mine up on jackstands, lifted about a half inch off the stands, put a third stand under the bell housing and dropped the chassis down before dropping the subframe. The passenger side header must come off no matter what. I had originally hoped I'd be installing headers when this happened but that was not to be. Still waiting on the headers even though the driver's side definitely leaks when cold...other priorities right now...

 

For those of you running theAG-24-40-RS, is the preferred configuration with the positive terminal on the left side, so that we can turn the battery backwards and the positive ends up on the right side?

Also has anyone ordered a battery on back order? Curious about lead times if the 60 Ah is indeed backordered.

 

In my opinion, Left.
Only issue is that stickers on top surface will be upside-down unless rotated manually.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post11167967

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...fe1ab83694.jpg

Please note this caution to check battery voltage prior to installation (it never entered my mind to do this):
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post11047522

Good timing, Labor Day sale is on now.

 

What do you want with a 60 Ah battery? I have the 24 in both the IS F and the GS F. They work perfectly even after sitting a couple of weeks.

LD15 is the automotive battery 15% discount for Labor Day weekend.

 

Just ordered the Group 24 - 40 Ah model based on AG recommendation... and it was the only model currently in stock. Good information in this thread!

 

Heads up, they no longer do this. I ordered directly from them and a monitor was not included.

 

Has anyone gotten a Antigravity Group-24 battery to work with the stock battery cover? It seems like 1mm too high, it's so close. I would like to continue to use the cable tie-downs on the side.

Edit: Got it to work but it is tight.

Thanks to everyone for the tips & tricks! Ordered the "L", switched the stickers around, tested the voltage, dropped it in.