Installed Antigravity Li Ion battery today
09-30-20, 11:51 PM
#16
I'd get the Group 51. It's lighter, smaller, cheaper and has plenty of kick to start and run the car. The AG battery I have now is less than 10 pounds as measured on my scale, rated at 24 Ah, and spins the engine over better than any lead/acid battery I've owned (I've had three of them in my IS F!?!). I like the 10 year warranty assuming I won't need to use it. That's what sucked about the red top in my Supra. When I drove it daily, I never had a problem and they lasted about 6 years. When it became my occasional driver, they lasted about 24 months, I got a replacement, it lasted 24 months, then I had to buy a new one because the replacement doesn't have the same warranty as a new one. Hated it. I'm looking forward to a sub 10 pound battery capable of holding its charge for long periods of sitting. Just what the Supra needs.
Group 51 is lighter and $90 cheaper than Group 24...
10-01-20, 01:24 AM
#17
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I made a top clamp from wood. Not pretty, but it works and is very light.
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minator (10-01-20)
10-01-20, 07:55 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
I'd say a top clamp is is not needed, the height is fine. A single spacer along one of the sides of the battery (forward or back) will do the trick width-wise. But, just to be clear, the battery does not move at all even with only a slight amount of clamping force without the spacers. The floating ends of the clamp do bend down just a bit and keep the battery from moving at all. It is firmly in.
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ChpEng (10-02-20)
10-01-20, 01:46 PM
#19
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I'd say a top clamp is is not needed, the height is fine. A single spacer along one of the sides of the battery (forward or back) will do the trick width-wise. But, just to be clear, the battery does not move at all even with only a slight amount of clamping force without the spacers. The floating ends of the clamp do bend down just a bit and keep the battery from moving at all. It is firmly in.
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10-01-20, 02:46 PM
#21
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Thanks Lou. Pretty nice one there too!
10-27-20, 02:02 PM
#22
I'd get the Group 51. It's lighter, smaller, cheaper and has plenty of kick to start and run the car. The AG battery I have now is less than 10 pounds as measured on my scale, rated at 24 Ah, and spins the engine over better than any lead/acid battery I've owned (I've had three of them in my IS F!?!). I like the 10 year warranty assuming I won't need to use it. That's what sucked about the red top in my Supra. When I drove it daily, I never had a problem and they lasted about 6 years. When it became my occasional driver, they lasted about 24 months, I got a replacement, it lasted 24 months, then I had to buy a new one because the replacement doesn't have the same warranty as a new one. Hated it. I'm looking forward to a sub 10 pound battery capable of holding its charge for long periods of sitting. Just what the Supra needs.
Have you had any issues with the 24Ah rating versus the stock battery at 70Ah? The Group 51 arc angel has a 30Ah rating and 550 CCA versus the stock 580 CCA.
10-27-20, 03:30 PM
#23
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It's been working perfectly since I got it, and the car sat all last week while I was fixing a minor valley plate leak. It started right up like nothing ever happened.
10-27-20, 04:00 PM
#24
My OEM battery appears to be on it's last legs at this point. The antigravity does appear to have a BMS, versus the arc-angel one that does not. It appears as though the LiFePO4 chemistry is a lot more stable in terms of thermal runaway, but is still possible. It sounds like in the next few months arc-angel will be redoing the BMS, and there will be a significant increase in price.
Damage appears to be possible when the LiFePO4 battery drops below 2.5 volts, but they hold 3.2 volts per cell until very close to complete discharge. Only problem is that cliff where it drops below 3.2 volts may not be apparent until you get there. At 2.5 volts you'd start struggling to start the vehicle, but it is possible to push it there briefly during the cold start.
Arc-angel's 10 year warranty is a huge selling point, as that's essentially two conventional batteries.
Looking at anti-gravity's webpage it appears you can buy their tracker separately, and it's reasonable in terms of cost.
Damage appears to be possible when the LiFePO4 battery drops below 2.5 volts, but they hold 3.2 volts per cell until very close to complete discharge. Only problem is that cliff where it drops below 3.2 volts may not be apparent until you get there. At 2.5 volts you'd start struggling to start the vehicle, but it is possible to push it there briefly during the cold start.
Arc-angel's 10 year warranty is a huge selling point, as that's essentially two conventional batteries.
Looking at anti-gravity's webpage it appears you can buy their tracker separately, and it's reasonable in terms of cost.
10-27-20, 04:11 PM
#25
Pole Position
Thread Starter
One problem with too few Amp hours is run time if the alternator dies. A regular lead acid might have 70 Ah. 70 amps for one hour. Depending on the load, that might run the car for another 20 minutes to several hours before the battery gets too low. 40 Ah you can about half that time. 20 Ah half it again. Could mean the difference between making it to a shop vs a tow.
10-27-20, 05:19 PM
#26
In general it looks like all the lithium battery options are going to be solid starting batteries as their CCA's are quite high. In terms of a reserve battery they definitely are not, in order to get something comparable to the stock battery you're looking at close to four figures. Though honestly this shouldn't be a huge surprise, the battery no matter what size isn't made to replace your alternator.
Last edited by ultimase; 10-27-20 at 05:31 PM.
10-27-20, 06:56 PM
#27
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I received the battery tracker with the battery at no charge. I was surprised to see it in the box, but I was very happy to see it there. The one thing I have not seen it do is successfully run the charging test on the IS F. It worked perfectly on my Supra, but the IS F charging test didn't work at all every time I've tried it.
AFA the alternator - small word of advice - you won't get it out of the car from the top (duh), but even from the bottom, you'll have to remove the sway bar and the two Torx E8 studs on top to get it off the engine without dropping the engine.
AFA the alternator - small word of advice - you won't get it out of the car from the top (duh), but even from the bottom, you'll have to remove the sway bar and the two Torx E8 studs on top to get it off the engine without dropping the engine.
10-30-20, 03:52 PM
#29
Do the voltage and cranking tests work?
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...acker-lithium/
My OBD scan tool has a "charging system monitor" diagnostic intended to give insight into battery, starter, and alternator health. The data is nice but honestly I have relied on good 'ole 5 human senses for the first two. Alternator degradation is more subtle.
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...acker-lithium/
My OBD scan tool has a "charging system monitor" diagnostic intended to give insight into battery, starter, and alternator health. The data is nice but honestly I have relied on good 'ole 5 human senses for the first two. Alternator degradation is more subtle.
10-30-20, 04:15 PM
#30
One problem with too few Amp hours is run time if the alternator dies. A regular lead acid might have 70 Ah. 70 amps for one hour. Depending on the load, that might run the car for another 20 minutes to several hours before the battery gets too low. 40 Ah you can about half that time. 20 Ah half it again. Could mean the difference between making it to a shop vs a tow.
https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tive/ag-24-rs/
I used to think you guys were candidates for the funny farm, but my lead-acid is only charging up to 75%, leaking slightly, and I am tired of the slow death routine. And I like that ferocious high-CCA startup in your video above...