Q50 Redsport or stick with ISF?
#76
Moderator
Your looking at around 25 pounds all in. Mine came out around there, so apparently going with the planted base didn’t lose much, if any progress over the Recaro base.
I haven’t weighed oem, but read they are 60 and 65 pounds. So a total of 35-40 pounds saved per seat. That’s pretty substantial, but I’d say the biggest gain is clearance, leg room, and definitely support in hard turns.
I haven’t weighed oem, but read they are 60 and 65 pounds. So a total of 35-40 pounds saved per seat. That’s pretty substantial, but I’d say the biggest gain is clearance, leg room, and definitely support in hard turns.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jwconeil:
ISF4life (01-08-21),
MileHIFcar (01-08-21)
#78
Moderator
How much does a 14 weigh, because there have never been substantial changes to the ISF seats? Mine are 13 alcantara, and they aren’t even on the same planet in support in hard turns. I started looking at race seats for that reason alone. My lower back isn’t in great shape, and my car can take turns faster than my seats can hold me in place. That’s not an issue now with my Recaros.
They never expire. It’s not FIA, it’s a seat designed for road use in other countries. Recaro makes it for manufacturers.
Last edited by Jwconeil; 01-08-21 at 09:05 PM.
#81
Moderator
Looks like those side rails are 15 to 17 lbs. They definitely fit: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...s-for-isf.html
If any of our vendors can source these, they can please chime in and let us know.
#82
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
This is what I found from the Japanese site.
More from Recaro Japan: https://www.club.recaro-automotive.j...arts/bfproduct
More from Recaro Japan: https://www.club.recaro-automotive.j...arts/bfproduct
#83
I always caution people that look at seats for weight savings. By the time you add an adapter, sliders, and side mounts, plus the hardware (nuts/bolts) to marry all three, it adds up pretty quickly. Not just in weight, but also height. Then you factor losing recline, seat heaters, and the hips being enclosed makes getting in and out a chore, it's definitely not for everyone. If you go with an aftermarket that reclines, all weight savings is essentially lost. Regarding expiration, I would have no qualms with a FIA rated seat in a vehicle long term. Actually, the problem you run into is the aforementioned items (sliders).
But it looks like the option Jwconeil found would eliminate a layer of extra adapters.
Regarding forged pistons, not used in OE much anymore. Needs for piston to wall clearances, start up noise, cost of manufacturing, it's not justified. But pistons aren't a drop in item, bores should be honed for replacement.
My observation is generally having a motor built can be very hit and miss. There's a lot that can go wrong, and it can only take the smallest piece of contamination to wipe out a bearing and subsequently a motor. The amount of tooling, fixturing, inspection that the OE can do versus a small shop, it's just difficult. And in reality, the weak point is moved. If you kill a piston by knock, stabbing a forged in will survive the knock, but the rod bearing kissing the crank from knock will wipe it out just the same. Forced induction is good, and makes power. But good fuel and good tuning are necessary.
For all of my negativity above. Yes, aftermarket seats can be more comfortable, and will 99% of the time hold you far better. And yes, motors can be built and hold up to some crazy abuse. Anything I own that's boosted ends up with a piston/rod motor and life is good.
But it looks like the option Jwconeil found would eliminate a layer of extra adapters.
Regarding forged pistons, not used in OE much anymore. Needs for piston to wall clearances, start up noise, cost of manufacturing, it's not justified. But pistons aren't a drop in item, bores should be honed for replacement.
My observation is generally having a motor built can be very hit and miss. There's a lot that can go wrong, and it can only take the smallest piece of contamination to wipe out a bearing and subsequently a motor. The amount of tooling, fixturing, inspection that the OE can do versus a small shop, it's just difficult. And in reality, the weak point is moved. If you kill a piston by knock, stabbing a forged in will survive the knock, but the rod bearing kissing the crank from knock will wipe it out just the same. Forced induction is good, and makes power. But good fuel and good tuning are necessary.
For all of my negativity above. Yes, aftermarket seats can be more comfortable, and will 99% of the time hold you far better. And yes, motors can be built and hold up to some crazy abuse. Anything I own that's boosted ends up with a piston/rod motor and life is good.
#84
Instructor
Thread Starter
I agree 100%. I wonder if any of the ISF engines that RR have built have had any issues? I only know of one but idk whos to blame for that. I’ve also thought about simply doing swaps every time I crack ringlands or whatever after I SC my ISF. As far as seats go I would like to know what a lightweight bucket seat with sliders, and brackets weight VS the oem seats. If it’s not worth it then I won’t be doing it. I would like to at least save 60 pounds at minimum.
#86
Moderator
I’ll pull one and weigh it for you. I need to make an adjustment anyway. I’m may order the above sliders mostly because I simply like them and I bet they are lighter. I went pretty heavy duty. The bolstering support and added helmet and leg room were worth it alone for me. Im pretty confident I cut over half my seat weight, if not more, but I’ll get real numbers for clarity.
Any recommendations on a vendor to source Recaro Japan rails?
I agree 100% on engine builds. I prefer oem engines. All that said, an engine shop will hone your block, take measurements, order pistons and assemble your short block for a fraction of the cost in central Indiana, in comparison to the costs I’m seeing on this Board. Unless we’re talking fully upgraded, blue printed, balanced, worked over heads, cams, etc.
Any recommendations on a vendor to source Recaro Japan rails?
I agree 100% on engine builds. I prefer oem engines. All that said, an engine shop will hone your block, take measurements, order pistons and assemble your short block for a fraction of the cost in central Indiana, in comparison to the costs I’m seeing on this Board. Unless we’re talking fully upgraded, blue printed, balanced, worked over heads, cams, etc.
Last edited by Jwconeil; 01-12-21 at 05:20 PM.
#87
I’ll pull one and weigh it for you. I need to make an adjustment anyway. I’m may order the above sliders mostly because I simply like them and I bet they are lighter. I went pretty heavy duty. The bolstering support and added helmet and leg room were worth it alone for me. Im pretty confident I cut over half my seat weight, if not more, but I’ll get real numbers for clarity.
Any recommendations on a vendor to source Recaro Japan rails?
I agree 100% on engine builds. I prefer oem engines. All that said, an engine shop will hone your block, take measurements, order pistons and assemble your short block for a fraction of the cost in central Indiana, in comparison to the costs I’m seeing on this Board. Unless we’re talking fully upgraded, blue printed, balanced, worked over heads, cams, etc.
Any recommendations on a vendor to source Recaro Japan rails?
I agree 100% on engine builds. I prefer oem engines. All that said, an engine shop will hone your block, take measurements, order pistons and assemble your short block for a fraction of the cost in central Indiana, in comparison to the costs I’m seeing on this Board. Unless we’re talking fully upgraded, blue printed, balanced, worked over heads, cams, etc.
#89
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I like my engine builds best. I've won a few championships for customers with them and I got the benefit of taking them apart after the season was over so I could see how it went. There's no magic to a good engine build, just a lot of cleaning and preventing contaminants from entering the build process. Ideally you have a class 100 clean room for the assembly process, but even class 1000 will get you to a good place.
#90
Moderator
I will toss an idea at the OP... the RS3 is more of an animal that I thought. My Buddy is looking at one, so I did a little research. Their power and quarter mile capability is insane, even with just a tune and FMIC 10s are a reasonable expectation. I can’t speak to their reliability outside of the engine and transmission appearing pretty stout. For a second, I seriously questioned why I had so much money in an ISF... but I quickly came back to reality.