ISFkid

yea its been a nightmare to deal with and it looks like it might only be getting worse. Never have I had to deal with such an issue because of a battery before. My first gen IS3 had battery drainages before but sparked right up after a swap all It would do was reset the memory. Everything on this car seems to be functioning even the headunit hooks back up to my bluetooth but car wont start lol. They could have built it in a way where everything drains and has a cut off not burning out ecus. I also read that everything is only good for one time use on these 2is platforms. If keys lose programing you literally cant reprogram and have to get a new key. Ive heard of people virginizing key fobs but then some people say you cant.

Jwconeil

Keep us updated. This isn’t the first, and won’t be the last, time this happens. It would be nice to know what specifically got fried. This doesn’t happen to everyone, but is something we all need to be aware of. Like I said, my doors wouldn’t even unlock, so the battery was fully discharged. I did this twice before I realized the battery was junk. My car skipped a beat on fire up as the systems all reloaded, but it was fine afterward. I wonder why it’s a sporadic concern. Either I got lucky, or you got unlucky. Sorry you have to go down this road. Maybe at least you can save the next guy/gal.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

There is near zero likelihood of a wiring problem unless rodents chewed your harness or you have the same issue one other member did where a wire underneath the steering ECU cut through, but his situation was a lot more unresponsive than yours. Wiring doesn't go bad over time, it has to have some kind of physical damage, and Lexus/Toyota put a huge amount of effort into ensuring their harnesses outlast their cars.

What year is your car? I am looking at the parts breakdown for my VIN (07/08 production) and the power source ECU is shown as "not applicable" which makes troubleshooting even more complex.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The keys are a whole different subject. They are widely varied across the production years, and keys need to be closely matched to the ECU. Ideally, you'd unregister the key with the ECM to which it is paired, but I've heard the exact same thing about a used key being useless and unable to program to a different ECM if it has been programmed to another. I experienced this with a GS F I tried to program, and we gave up trying because the only way to attempt to get the key programmed would have required zeroing all the keys and restarting with the master key. I wasn't going to do that under any circumstance.

It's a shame you're not in Atlanta. This would be a whole lot easier to troubleshoot with TIS and Techstream directly available. It's stuff like this that I keep a professional subscription for.

Jwconeil

Linking the other thread here just in case any followers want to learn more. Long in the short, it was a $4,200 dollar fix on a 2008 ISF that let the battery drain in storage.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...t-start-7.html

ISFkid

I've seen that thread you sent and thats what I've been dreading. I hope my situation doesnt come down to swapping out a bunch of ecu's. If anything the only code im getting is b2288 so if anything is fried and i still have my fingers crossed nothing is, it would be the steering lock ecu that needs to be replaced. Im wondering if it could just be the solenoid thats gone bad or actuator thats shooting the code? But that would be very random to say the least since everything was working fine prior. I wonder if i got the techstream and cleared the code if that security light would disengage and everything would sync back up. Just ordered the cable off amazon so its worth giving a shot

ISFkid

Heres a picture of the code the locksmith pulled when he came by

ISFkid

ISFkid

Lobuxracer i checked the harness under the ps ecu and it was in good shape. I also saw that thread as to how one of the wires had damage and it was causing a whole bunch of issues. I thought I'd check mine either way to rule it out. My car is an 09 ISF. Obsidian black. Was saving up to ppf the front end this summer but seems like I'm going to have to dump that money on repairs instead. 😔😔

Manh3

iTrader: (1)

I barely just started driving my isf again but it sat for about a year and I would at first occasionally start it up every two weeks but then it sat for 6 months without me firing it up. I swapped out the battery to a new Lexus battery even though it was only 1.5 years old. I’m so thank you that I’m not going through what the OP is going through and serves as a reminder to just drive the damn car.

lawrence1

have you cleared this code and tried to start it? Do you hear the steering wheel unlock when you push the start button? Is the wheel locked or not?

You tried moving the wheel as you push the start button? I can’t remember if the steering lock operates upon pressing the start button the first time ... I’ll look at my car tomorrow and post.

ISFkid

Steering wheel is locked and doesn't disengage when i try to start it. Can't get past anything other than turn accessories on. I've tried jerking the steering wheel left and right upon start hoping it would release but it stays stuck and i don't hear the motor trying to do anything. The tilt/telescope function works fine but its the unlock that seems stuck. I know the locksmith tried clearing the code on his tablet which looked like a pretty advanced program but it was unsuccessful. I have literally tried and checked everything. I should have put in that optima yellow top battery in last year that i was eyeing. Who would have thought

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The unlock command is generated as soon as you press the start switch regardless of the engine's state. I just validated the steering unlock in my car happens on a single press to ACC without a foot on the brake.

While the locksmith's tool looks advanced, it's not full Techstream, and it would be helpful to know if there are any non-lock related codes being generated.

The power source ECU for your model goes for $710 US from Internet Lexus sources. The immobiliser code ECU is not too bad - $115. Certification ECU is $645.

The first step in troubleshooting the steering lock is this:

The steering lock ECU is connected to the power source control ECU and ID CODE BOX. The steering lock ECU cannot activate the motor unless it receives permission signals from both ECUs. (The power source control ECU permits the steering lock ECU to supply power to activate the motor.)

I am pretty certain it is possible to figure out which box isn't doing what it should, but you need the full troubleshooting details to do this.

lawrence1

This is great info.

Next step would be to get techstream set up. There are endless resources online on how to accomplish this and it’s quite simple if you have a laptop to install on

also, the code may not be possible to clear because it’s a current/active fault, as shown in that screen print you posted but at least you’ll have full troubleshooting capability and should be able to narrow down where the issue is.

one more question. Are your front wheels pointing straight or they turned?

ISFkid

Wheels are straight but locked. Also waiting on the cable I ordered from amazon which is supposed to include an install for techstream. If the software is no good ill have to just purchase a 2day subscription to TIS.