Need Help!! Car wont start
#31
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Under an IS F since 2008
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Jumping in late here...
@ISFkid
Did you try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes ???
And also resetting the ECUs ??
Also double check that there are no cracks in the fusible links in the ecu box @lobuxracer posted..
Online I found a PDF for a 2008 IS250 with the same code..
See below
https://f01.justanswer.com/dcraig100...92888f_eee.pdf
Good Luck
Joe Z
@ISFkid
Did you try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes ???
And also resetting the ECUs ??
Also double check that there are no cracks in the fusible links in the ecu box @lobuxracer posted..
Online I found a PDF for a 2008 IS250 with the same code..
See below
https://f01.justanswer.com/dcraig100...92888f_eee.pdf
Good Luck
Joe Z
#32
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Joe Z, thanks for jumping in. I did pull the battery terminals a few times and it did nothing. As per resetting the ecus, how do you mean?
I had the mobile locksmith try to reset the codes and I attempted to reset the immobilizer and none of those worked either. Im waiting on my cable I purchased to run techstream and see where it gets me.
I had the mobile locksmith try to reset the codes and I attempted to reset the immobilizer and none of those worked either. Im waiting on my cable I purchased to run techstream and see where it gets me.
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CamelKool (04-07-21)
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CamelKool (04-07-21)
#36
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I think the real telltale sign here is the steering unlock isn't working. It should unlock without touching the brakes at all by simply pushing the start button to go into ACC mode. If that isn't working, there is a fundmental issue with cerfication of the key which could be the power source ECU or the certification ECU (immobiliser). The brake switch failing would be truly random when the car was working fine before the battery lost charge.
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Yri (04-05-21)
#37
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I agree with lobux. I have tried all remedies including trying to open the door with physical key in all types of ways go reset immobilizer. Also all fuses and relays are good. Brake light switch can't be the issue as my brake lights do turn on and car ignition recognizes that the brakes are being pressed as it gives me the amber to green on the push start button.
I do find it strange though as to how my one key fob still recognizes in the ecu as being registered but will not function at all on the car. Unlike my spare key which i never had to use until now. My other key won't open doors, locks or even allow me to get into ACC mode. I want to rule out the keys as being the issue but it is very strange. I'm tempted to register and add a new key but I don't want to burn a key if it won't resolve my issue.
Just checked the status of the cable i ordered for techstream and it should be here by wednesday. Hopefully this can clarify everything
I do find it strange though as to how my one key fob still recognizes in the ecu as being registered but will not function at all on the car. Unlike my spare key which i never had to use until now. My other key won't open doors, locks or even allow me to get into ACC mode. I want to rule out the keys as being the issue but it is very strange. I'm tempted to register and add a new key but I don't want to burn a key if it won't resolve my issue.
Just checked the status of the cable i ordered for techstream and it should be here by wednesday. Hopefully this can clarify everything
#38
Just had the same issue
I just had the same issue with my 2016 RX 350. Troubleshooting all the things. Lexus figured out that it was a bad component in the radio that was draining the battery. The radio had to be replaced. It is now working fine. Hope this helps.
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CamelKool (04-07-21)
#39
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: TX
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Fuel sensor
I had the exact same issue on my 2010 IS350 last year. After searching through tons of videos and forums I found the issue: the fuel rail pressure sensor was shorting out. When this sensor shorts out it shorts out your ecu and doesn’t allow your vehicle to attempt a start.
A good way to diagnose is by opening up your ecu and disconnecting the plug that goes to your fuel pressure sensor. If you do that and your vehicle attempts a start (it won’t actually start with it unplugged), it’s highly likely it’s your fuel pressure sensor and that your starter is totally fine.
The fuel rail pressure sensor was around $400 and you should be able to do all the work yourself. Pretty minimal; you just have to remove your air intake manifold (one solid plastic piece) to be able to access the fuel sensor on the back of the fuel rail. This would be a perfect time to replace spark plugs to, since you get access to them all when you have this off.
After performing this fix, my car runs perfectly fine again. Best of luck.
I think these links will be helpful:
A good way to diagnose is by opening up your ecu and disconnecting the plug that goes to your fuel pressure sensor. If you do that and your vehicle attempts a start (it won’t actually start with it unplugged), it’s highly likely it’s your fuel pressure sensor and that your starter is totally fine.
The fuel rail pressure sensor was around $400 and you should be able to do all the work yourself. Pretty minimal; you just have to remove your air intake manifold (one solid plastic piece) to be able to access the fuel sensor on the back of the fuel rail. This would be a perfect time to replace spark plugs to, since you get access to them all when you have this off.
After performing this fix, my car runs perfectly fine again. Best of luck.
I think these links will be helpful:
Hello Ladies and Gents,
I'm having issues with getting my car started and would really appreciate some help or knowledge if anyone has dealt with this type of issue before. Story is I live up in Toronto so I dont winter drive my car and leave it parked during the winter months. With spring here I decided to start getting the car prepared so I can start driving it again. I tried to start the car but the battery was completely drained, hooked it up to a charger and it had less than 9v since I hadnt moved it or started it in a while. I left the charger on the car over night and the battery fully charged up. Tried starting the car with a full battery but car wouldnt crank at all, everything on the car works from the lights, dash, horn, brakes, etc. I figured the battery may be holding charge but didnt have enough juice to start the car. Went out and bought a new battery which also has full charge but still no crank. Ive checked all the fuses, relays and main fuse link and everything checks good. I pulled my starter relay and jumped the starter and car tried to crank but it feels as if something is holding it back. The problem seemed to be more electrical than mechanical so I called in a lock smith to make sure the fobs were still registered. Lock smith came and key fobs were both still registered to ecu but one of my fobs wont detect for some reason. We ran a scan on the car and got an error code B2288 which is related to a steering lock issue. Ive googled the hell out of that code but its not getting me anywhere. I also noticed that my security light now does not disengage even when my ignition is on and car is in ACC. Again everything works, even when I press the brake the ignition light goes from amber to green but nothing. Has anyone experienced anything like this before ? Is it possible for a dead battery to cause these issues? Everything on the car was great before this battery issue and I even sparked it up once or twice in the winter without any issues. Im stuck now and the way the car is parked in my garage it would be a real pain in the *** to have it towed out for a diagnoses. The steering wheel is locked and wont budge. Im hoping someone can give me some guidance.
I'm having issues with getting my car started and would really appreciate some help or knowledge if anyone has dealt with this type of issue before. Story is I live up in Toronto so I dont winter drive my car and leave it parked during the winter months. With spring here I decided to start getting the car prepared so I can start driving it again. I tried to start the car but the battery was completely drained, hooked it up to a charger and it had less than 9v since I hadnt moved it or started it in a while. I left the charger on the car over night and the battery fully charged up. Tried starting the car with a full battery but car wouldnt crank at all, everything on the car works from the lights, dash, horn, brakes, etc. I figured the battery may be holding charge but didnt have enough juice to start the car. Went out and bought a new battery which also has full charge but still no crank. Ive checked all the fuses, relays and main fuse link and everything checks good. I pulled my starter relay and jumped the starter and car tried to crank but it feels as if something is holding it back. The problem seemed to be more electrical than mechanical so I called in a lock smith to make sure the fobs were still registered. Lock smith came and key fobs were both still registered to ecu but one of my fobs wont detect for some reason. We ran a scan on the car and got an error code B2288 which is related to a steering lock issue. Ive googled the hell out of that code but its not getting me anywhere. I also noticed that my security light now does not disengage even when my ignition is on and car is in ACC. Again everything works, even when I press the brake the ignition light goes from amber to green but nothing. Has anyone experienced anything like this before ? Is it possible for a dead battery to cause these issues? Everything on the car was great before this battery issue and I even sparked it up once or twice in the winter without any issues. Im stuck now and the way the car is parked in my garage it would be a real pain in the *** to have it towed out for a diagnoses. The steering wheel is locked and wont budge. Im hoping someone can give me some guidance.
Last edited by baf2468; 04-07-21 at 09:28 AM. Reason: Added YouTube links
#40
Driver School Candidate
I had this same issue
Hello Ladies and Gents,
I'm having issues with getting my car started and would really appreciate some help or knowledge if anyone has dealt with this type of issue before. Story is I live up in Toronto so I dont winter drive my car and leave it parked during the winter months. With spring here I decided to start getting the car prepared so I can start driving it again. I tried to start the car but the battery was completely drained, hooked it up to a charger and it had less than 9v since I hadnt moved it or started it in a while. I left the charger on the car over night and the battery fully charged up. Tried starting the car with a full battery but car wouldnt crank at all, everything on the car works from the lights, dash, horn, brakes, etc. I figured the battery may be holding charge but didnt have enough juice to start the car. Went out and bought a new battery which also has full charge but still no crank. Ive checked all the fuses, relays and main fuse link and everything checks good. I pulled my starter relay and jumped the starter and car tried to crank but it feels as if something is holding it back. The problem seemed to be more electrical than mechanical so I called in a lock smith to make sure the fobs were still registered. Lock smith came and key fobs were both still registered to ecu but one of my fobs wont detect for some reason. We ran a scan on the car and got an error code B2288 which is related to a steering lock issue. Ive googled the hell out of that code but its not getting me anywhere. I also noticed that my security light now does not disengage even when my ignition is on and car is in ACC. Again everything works, even when I press the brake the ignition light goes from amber to green but nothing. Has anyone experienced anything like this before ? Is it possible for a dead battery to cause these issues? Everything on the car was great before this battery issue and I even sparked it up once or twice in the winter without any issues. Im stuck now and the way the car is parked in my garage it would be a real pain in the *** to have it towed out for a diagnoses. The steering wheel is locked and wont budge. Im hoping someone can give me some guidance.
I'm having issues with getting my car started and would really appreciate some help or knowledge if anyone has dealt with this type of issue before. Story is I live up in Toronto so I dont winter drive my car and leave it parked during the winter months. With spring here I decided to start getting the car prepared so I can start driving it again. I tried to start the car but the battery was completely drained, hooked it up to a charger and it had less than 9v since I hadnt moved it or started it in a while. I left the charger on the car over night and the battery fully charged up. Tried starting the car with a full battery but car wouldnt crank at all, everything on the car works from the lights, dash, horn, brakes, etc. I figured the battery may be holding charge but didnt have enough juice to start the car. Went out and bought a new battery which also has full charge but still no crank. Ive checked all the fuses, relays and main fuse link and everything checks good. I pulled my starter relay and jumped the starter and car tried to crank but it feels as if something is holding it back. The problem seemed to be more electrical than mechanical so I called in a lock smith to make sure the fobs were still registered. Lock smith came and key fobs were both still registered to ecu but one of my fobs wont detect for some reason. We ran a scan on the car and got an error code B2288 which is related to a steering lock issue. Ive googled the hell out of that code but its not getting me anywhere. I also noticed that my security light now does not disengage even when my ignition is on and car is in ACC. Again everything works, even when I press the brake the ignition light goes from amber to green but nothing. Has anyone experienced anything like this before ? Is it possible for a dead battery to cause these issues? Everything on the car was great before this battery issue and I even sparked it up once or twice in the winter without any issues. Im stuck now and the way the car is parked in my garage it would be a real pain in the *** to have it towed out for a diagnoses. The steering wheel is locked and wont budge. Im hoping someone can give me some guidance.
#41
Driver School Candidate
No unfortunately I don't have techstream. I was looking on amazon and found some chinese versions of Techstream that come with a OBD cable also but not sure how well they work. I was looking to see if there would be a mobile tech that can come down but i cant find one anywhere
#42
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
it's nice that folks with other models are chiming in, but unfortunately, these solutions are not representative of what we have seen with the 2UR-GSE, and saying removing the intake is a simple task for this engine is completely misrepresenting the level of effort it take to remove our aluminum intake without damaging anything. Also, installing the fuel pressure sensor isn't exactly simple either. We had a problem with this sensor potentially leaking that was addressed by a recall. The tightening process for this sensor is beyond most home mechanics, and even Lexus provided special tooling to ensure this sensor got tightened correctly - it's not the usual set your torque wrench and you're good to go.
Are these problems with other Lexus vehicles possibilities? Sure. But in this scenario where everything was working just fine until the battery discharged, these other scenarios are highly unlikely, and far more likely is the experience other IS F owners have had when their batteries discharged below 9 vdc.
Are these problems with other Lexus vehicles possibilities? Sure. But in this scenario where everything was working just fine until the battery discharged, these other scenarios are highly unlikely, and far more likely is the experience other IS F owners have had when their batteries discharged below 9 vdc.
#43
Driver School Candidate
Trip the alarm
I agree with lobux. I have tried all remedies including trying to open the door with physical key in all types of ways go reset immobilizer. Also all fuses and relays are good. Brake light switch can't be the issue as my brake lights do turn on and car ignition recognizes that the brakes are being pressed as it gives me the amber to green on the push start button.
I do find it strange though as to how my one key fob still recognizes in the ecu as being registered but will not function at all on the car. Unlike my spare key which i never had to use until now. My other key won't open doors, locks or even allow me to get into ACC mode. I want to rule out the keys as being the issue but it is very strange. I'm tempted to register and add a new key but I don't want to burn a key if it won't resolve my issue.
Just checked the status of the cable i ordered for techstream and it should be here by wednesday. Hopefully this can clarify everything
I do find it strange though as to how my one key fob still recognizes in the ecu as being registered but will not function at all on the car. Unlike my spare key which i never had to use until now. My other key won't open doors, locks or even allow me to get into ACC mode. I want to rule out the keys as being the issue but it is very strange. I'm tempted to register and add a new key but I don't want to burn a key if it won't resolve my issue.
Just checked the status of the cable i ordered for techstream and it should be here by wednesday. Hopefully this can clarify everything
#44
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Just received the cable and installing the software on old laptop now. These old laptops are so dated and slow. Also I just tripped the alarm and I couldn't get it to disarm with the key. Had to use the key fob again to shut it off.
#45
Driver School Candidate
Last edited by sle783; 04-07-21 at 04:04 PM.