Originally Posted by ISFCOBRA

Not sure what these are but it recommend to be replace by the dealership. Anyone?
82126-53010 Wire, Engine, No.6
82127-53010 Wire, Engine, No.7

Originally Posted by 93MSB

They are labeled "Fuel Injector Connector" in the parts catalogs. The images look to be a short modular harness for the port injectors

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

Yes, and those connector bodies are very brittle at the kind of mileage on this unit. I only removed one of them, and only because I already had the manifold off with the injectors and harness intact (there is no reason in the world to remove any of this to do the valley plate repair, just the manifold with the injectors and harness as a unit). The one I removed broke into pieces. I had new connector bodies (there's no need to buy the harness, just the connector bodies) to replace all 8 assuming I would need to remove those connectors, but the harness separates from the main engine harness so this was just an academic exercise. I had the same 8 connector bodies for the DI injectors and had to use some of them, but not all 8. If it were mine, I wouldn't even touch any of the injector connectors unless I was certain I needed to disconnect them for something important. Too many have had the injector body break just removing the connector. I had the retaining locks break on mine, but the connector bodies themselves stayed intact. I was extremely cautious while doing this because I had no desire to buy and replace any injectors.

Originally Posted by ISFCOBRA

The plastic is so bridle in the engine bay and not looking to replace those wires. The large plastic covering the wire harness has so many broken pieces which is taped up.

Originally Posted by Adamcam707

I have a 2012 lexus ISF 75k miles
It has no cel but when I run my obd2 scanner, I get p1170 (fuel performance/Port injector) I just bought the car I’m new to ISFs and it’s fast but I did expect it to be way faster I feel like I might be loosing some power and when I Cold start it, it dose do some weird revs like it will go up to 1.5k rpm’s then drop and up again then back to normal and it dose have some weird shifts sometimes in automatic mode when you start rolling from a stop it sometimes revs up quick then back to normal all by it’s self without letting the pedal go. Also when smashing the gas in auto mode it is very slow It feels like it takes for ever to reach 7k rpm’s to shift in the beginning until it reaches higher rpm’s. But in Manuel mode is better and shifts properly. Other than that it shifts great I did drive the car back 5 hours with no issues.
Mods:
hps intake
Rr racing AOS
No rear mufflers

Originally Posted by ISFpowered

Make sure sport mode is in for sure. Auto will always feel slower. It will feel a bit better when sport mode is on. Fastest will always be manually shifting. You pretty much have a stock car so it’s not going to feel anywhere near what a FBO ISF will feel like. Depending on what you drove before then that’s why your ISF feels slow. Shifting issues might come from improper fill either to low (most likely) or to high if anyones tried servicing it. As far as the code your AOS might be leaking some mine did and I fixed it by changing the fittings to brass vs the plastic ones it comes with. Also check the clamps on the intake aren’t loose.

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

Here's the list of possibles for your P0171 and P0174:

• Intake system
• Fuel injector assembly for port injection
• Fuel injector assembly for direct injection
• Mass air flow meter
• Engine coolant temperature sensor
• Fuel pressure
• Gas leaks from exhaust system
• Open or short in air fuel ratio sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1) circuit
• Air fuel ratio sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1)
• PCV valve and hose
• PCV hose connections
• Wire harness or connector
• ECM

P1170 is just injectors or ECM.

Did they already try a fuel system cleaner like BG44K? That's where I would start. Sounds like the injectors are varnished up and need to be cleaned to me. It's incredibly rare to need to replace all of your port or direct injectors. This kind of result is more often just bad fuel or dirty injectors. TBH - this is the first time anyone here has had a problem like this. Usually replacing an injector is because it got broken during a valley plate repair, and then it's only one or two. The other very real possibility is a cracked hose, like the one from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. With the mileage you have (very similar to mine +/- 1k miles) the PCV hose is as brittle as glass at the manifold end. I replaced my PCV valve a while ago, and the hose was definitely in a bad way. Same thing with the EVAP purge line that is right next to it on the manifold. So, if this were mine to fix, I'd do it like this:

1. Get a can of BG44K and put it in the gas tank.
2. Replace the PCV valve and hose (not the easiest task in the world, but doable).
3. Replace the EVAP purge solenoid hose.
4. Inspect all other vacuum hoses for deterioration and replace anything suspect.

TEST.

I really, really doubt you need to replace your injectors. That would be bizarre.

Also - if you have an AOS or catch can, bypass it with a direct hose from the PCV valve to the manifold to test for a leak in that device.

Originally Posted by Adamcam707

is the BG44k the only good gas cleaner because it looks like they only sell them online I can’t find them near me so would there be a different brand that would be sold at a near by auto store that’s safe and works well?

Originally Posted by 93MSB

BG is considered one of, if not, the best cleaners.

You can also try techron, gumout, or redline si-1. They are easier to source locally (you're looking for a high content of PEA(Polyether Amine))

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

One can is plenty. It's a miracle worker for dirty injectors. But I'd bet on the AOS being the root cause.