2010 ISF Aftermarket Sub Install
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2010 ISF Aftermarket Sub Install
Hi guys - I'm including the following to document the sub install build on my 2010 Lexus ISF. I'm replacing the stock ML subwoofer as it is 'lacking' :-) - although to give the system props its pretty good at lower volumes. It lacks punchy bass you can feel.. and everyone needs a little extra bass
I'm coming from a 99 Lexus GS400 which I built with a single 12" RE XXX running with 1.7k watts in a decent sized ported box (cant remember the tune or size) - this is overkill for me now as I've had the RE XXX setup for 7-8yrs and have out grown my bass head yrs. Its crazy loud and deep... but doesnt leave me with much trunk space and I rarely listen to it 'loud' anymore. I'm going for a much less in your face setup - something I can enjoy and hopefully dip a toe into the SQ world. And retain a bit more trunk space this time around.
I'm putting in the following equipment.
1cu Fiberglass 'Magic' box from wickedcas.com. The box is very well built and i'm pretty happy with it. Its pricey but I did not want to lose significant trunk space, nor did I want to give up the backseat pass through. And I didnt want to tackle a fiberglass box on my own (I recognize my skillset.. fiberglass is not it). I was originally looking for a boxology box - but those arent being made any more so we're going for th next best thing. I'm using Parts-Express Hurricane taps for mounting the sub (makes the install/removal of the sub easiy).
The Sub is a 12" Image Dynamics IDQ v3D2. (Should have gone with D4 to give me a 2 Ohm load - this is one of those measure twice moments....). It will be wired at 1 Ohm powered by 600 watts.
The Amp is an Arc Audio xdi600.1 which will be wired to the IDQ at 1ohm (600 watts). I purchased this from a member over at DIYMobileAudio - love the size and initial quality of the amp. It will be mounted under the rear deck (stealth install). Remote bass control **** will be installed in a blank dash insert.
AudioControl LC2i Line out convertor - this will be tapped into the front L/R woofers for a full range signal.
RCA interconnects are ebay specials (Directed Electroncis) - 3' twisted pair
Speaker wire is 12g monoprice ofc.
Power wire is 4g Knu CCA rated for 100A @ 20ft.
Fuse holder is a Xscorpion AGU48P with 70A fuse (Amp has 70A fuse as well).
Techflex from eBay (seller furryletters) for power wire/ground and speakerwire.
Crimp connectors will be from HomeDepot (because I'm lazy and forgot to order them and I refuse to pay best buy prices).
Should be a fun build - nothing crazy, no fabrication but I know a lot of Lexus IS guys are into adding/replacing the stock sub so hopefully this build will provide some details for them.
I'll be working on it this week so hopefully the pics and progress will be quick - if you have any questions feel free to ask.
Pic of the Old Car & New Car :-)
- Andrew
I'm coming from a 99 Lexus GS400 which I built with a single 12" RE XXX running with 1.7k watts in a decent sized ported box (cant remember the tune or size) - this is overkill for me now as I've had the RE XXX setup for 7-8yrs and have out grown my bass head yrs. Its crazy loud and deep... but doesnt leave me with much trunk space and I rarely listen to it 'loud' anymore. I'm going for a much less in your face setup - something I can enjoy and hopefully dip a toe into the SQ world. And retain a bit more trunk space this time around.
I'm putting in the following equipment.
1cu Fiberglass 'Magic' box from wickedcas.com. The box is very well built and i'm pretty happy with it. Its pricey but I did not want to lose significant trunk space, nor did I want to give up the backseat pass through. And I didnt want to tackle a fiberglass box on my own (I recognize my skillset.. fiberglass is not it). I was originally looking for a boxology box - but those arent being made any more so we're going for th next best thing. I'm using Parts-Express Hurricane taps for mounting the sub (makes the install/removal of the sub easiy).
The Sub is a 12" Image Dynamics IDQ v3D2. (Should have gone with D4 to give me a 2 Ohm load - this is one of those measure twice moments....). It will be wired at 1 Ohm powered by 600 watts.
The Amp is an Arc Audio xdi600.1 which will be wired to the IDQ at 1ohm (600 watts). I purchased this from a member over at DIYMobileAudio - love the size and initial quality of the amp. It will be mounted under the rear deck (stealth install). Remote bass control **** will be installed in a blank dash insert.
AudioControl LC2i Line out convertor - this will be tapped into the front L/R woofers for a full range signal.
RCA interconnects are ebay specials (Directed Electroncis) - 3' twisted pair
Speaker wire is 12g monoprice ofc.
Power wire is 4g Knu CCA rated for 100A @ 20ft.
Fuse holder is a Xscorpion AGU48P with 70A fuse (Amp has 70A fuse as well).
Techflex from eBay (seller furryletters) for power wire/ground and speakerwire.
Crimp connectors will be from HomeDepot (because I'm lazy and forgot to order them and I refuse to pay best buy prices).
Should be a fun build - nothing crazy, no fabrication but I know a lot of Lexus IS guys are into adding/replacing the stock sub so hopefully this build will provide some details for them.
I'll be working on it this week so hopefully the pics and progress will be quick - if you have any questions feel free to ask.
Pic of the Old Car & New Car :-)
- Andrew
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Night 1 - Sound Deadening, run wire & sub control ****
OK - diving right in.
First I wanted to come up with a cool place for the fuse box in the engine compartment that looked appropriate for the car - but didnt take away from what Lexus had done. You'll notice the cables are all dressed and organized in an attempt to keep the install classly and clean (shouldnt cheapen the car).
I used the fuse box cover and some nylon screws - I think it came out really nice. I was careful not to block the underside of the fusebox lid to ensure you can still locate fuses if needed. The screws were trimmed down to the nut level so they fit cleanly. I used nylon since the screws touch the metal fuse holder and I didnt want any chance of something shorting.
And.. Finished :-)
Sub Control **** - I wanted to be able to control the bass from the drivers seat - I always turn the bass up/down based on song and driving neighborhood :-)
The Arc Audio amp came with a control **** - its meant to be installed under the dash or mounted between the seat... not clean in my opinion. I want it to look as stock as possible.
Finished product - I think it looks pretty killer.
Sound Deadening - not a full deadening install but adding some CLD tiles from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com - these are a much more cost effective alternative to dynomatt/fattmat etc. I had some left over from my wifes stereo build so i added them where i though they would help the best. I had to remove the trunk carpet anyways to run wire - figured why not :P They are designed ot be installed in pieces vs the full 100% coverage of dynomatt - I probably went a bit light but that all I had left over. I'm sure it'll help keep the rattles contained.
Next I ran the speaker wire for the new sub - nice and neat :-) Zip tied to the factory looms every 6-7"
And last but not least - I installed the sub mounts (these are backer screw holes to prevent you from stripping out the MDF/Fiberglass. They are a pain to put in but make installing and removing the sub a piece of cake. Not much to see here (they're installed behind the mounting ring). The wire inside also nice and neat.
Thats it for tonight.. off to bed.
First I wanted to come up with a cool place for the fuse box in the engine compartment that looked appropriate for the car - but didnt take away from what Lexus had done. You'll notice the cables are all dressed and organized in an attempt to keep the install classly and clean (shouldnt cheapen the car).
I used the fuse box cover and some nylon screws - I think it came out really nice. I was careful not to block the underside of the fusebox lid to ensure you can still locate fuses if needed. The screws were trimmed down to the nut level so they fit cleanly. I used nylon since the screws touch the metal fuse holder and I didnt want any chance of something shorting.
And.. Finished :-)
Sub Control **** - I wanted to be able to control the bass from the drivers seat - I always turn the bass up/down based on song and driving neighborhood :-)
The Arc Audio amp came with a control **** - its meant to be installed under the dash or mounted between the seat... not clean in my opinion. I want it to look as stock as possible.
Finished product - I think it looks pretty killer.
Sound Deadening - not a full deadening install but adding some CLD tiles from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com - these are a much more cost effective alternative to dynomatt/fattmat etc. I had some left over from my wifes stereo build so i added them where i though they would help the best. I had to remove the trunk carpet anyways to run wire - figured why not :P They are designed ot be installed in pieces vs the full 100% coverage of dynomatt - I probably went a bit light but that all I had left over. I'm sure it'll help keep the rattles contained.
Next I ran the speaker wire for the new sub - nice and neat :-) Zip tied to the factory looms every 6-7"
And last but not least - I installed the sub mounts (these are backer screw holes to prevent you from stripping out the MDF/Fiberglass. They are a pain to put in but make installing and removing the sub a piece of cake. Not much to see here (they're installed behind the mounting ring). The wire inside also nice and neat.
Thats it for tonight.. off to bed.
Last edited by silverlexg; 09-10-12 at 10:10 PM.
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Thanks - yea, I'm kinda tired of the DIYMA forum.. you can only have 5pms before your mailbox is full... you cant edit posts older than 3 days etc. Its all geared around getting members to pay which i think is crap - they're the ones putting out your content..for free. of course it appears that CL is censoring k,n,o,b which is wierd... :P Gonna have to change my post to say sub control device
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Thanks - yea, I'm kinda tired of the DIYMA forum.. you can only have 5pms before your mailbox is full... you cant edit posts older than 3 days etc. Its all geared around getting members to pay which i think is crap - they're the ones putting out your content..for free. of course it appears that CL is censoring k,n,o,b which is wierd... :P Gonna have to change my post to say sub control device
Ha ha I agree, but it is still a go to spot to learn with a wealth of car audio info
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RCB - how did you mount the sub in that corner? I'm thinking of using the bolts for the cargo strap tie down... just curious what you came up with.
ERDoc74 - I'd totally help you put one in :-) Its not as hard as people assume- just take your time and have all the products you need and it'll turn out nice.
- Andrew
ERDoc74 - I'd totally help you put one in :-) Its not as hard as people assume- just take your time and have all the products you need and it'll turn out nice.
- Andrew
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...... really?
The amp is going to be mounted under the rear deck. Here's an example of how i did it on my wifes car. No Cap - just the equipment in the first post.
- Andrew