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Sounds interesting, but I don't think anyone here has them. Though, for the price, I wouldn't mine trying on a set, but I'm not sure if they make a difference.
I got the subframe braces today, they are nice pieces! The guy was genuinely nice and seemed very straight laced for those interested but weary of eBay purchased stuff or craigslist thieves. He explained some stuff about the designing and testing and what some cars have had happen due to a bad design on early 2nd gen cars (chassis buckling), I forgot to ask if any weight savings but he did say they fit as stock including bolts (hence the recessed bolt head areas and that the tq spec was 37 ft/lbs.
I got the subframe braces today, they are nice pieces! The guy was genuinely nice and seemed very straight laced for those interested but weary of eBay purchased stuff or craigslist thieves. He explained some stuff about the designing and testing and what some cars have had happen due to a bad design on early 2nd gen cars (chassis buckling), I forgot to ask if any weight savings but he did say they fit as stock including bolts (hence the recessed bolt head areas and that the tq spec was 37 ft/lbs.
Let us know if you feel any difference in the car and how hard they were to install.
Ok no problem, he said install was easy as jacking up the back end and remove & replace. I got the plain aluminum, I plan to get these and the figs links/arms, various other chassis bracing all powdercoated the same color.
So I got the braces swapped, I don't have a scale to weigh the exact difference but I can say it's a mere 3-5lbs. You remove the plastic air guide panel completely by u bolting 2 10mm nuts then remove be the 2 14mm bolts holding the brace on (do this for the left and the right) these are the same concept as the superpro/think/etc member (subframe) braces only they are a thicker design to help reduce flex. There is no provisions to put the air guides back on either.
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So I got the braces swapped, I don't have a scale to weigh the exact difference but I can say it's a mere 3-5lbs. You remove the plastic air guide panel completely by u bolting 2 10mm nuts then remove be the 2 14mm bolts holding the brace on (do this for the left and the right) these are the same concept as the superpro/think/etc member (subframe) braces only they are a thicker design to help reduce flex. There is no provisions to put the air guides back on either. At this time I can not confirm the increase in rigidity or performance difference, I'm installing figs rear rotors! More to follow.. Pic for those who need to see the difference:
I personally think that the OEM ones would be stiffer and stronger against flexing only because it is a formed piece of metal, where as the aluminum one is a flat piece and more prone to flexing under high pressure. Just my 0.02 cents though!
These are solid billet aluminum, the oem are stamped steel. Also, from pics these are about twice as thick as competitors parts. He claimed to have stress tested the parts thought the development of it and this is the best he could get it without over weighing. I'm going to attempt to make the mid trans tunnel brace and the round rear tie brace just before the diff, I gotta talk to my fabricator tomorrow so I'll see what he thinks/says.
On the track the more you can tie up the lower part of the chassis the greater the handling. For something that's not too expensive its really a great mod for tracking
I also have Solid Rear Differential Ear Mounts as well as the F-Sport Chassis Brace and both do a noticeably great job at keeping the rear end of the car planted during high-g cornering. Hopefully this Rear Subframe Brace upgrade will further enhance responsiveness and keeping the rear stable at the track.