Oil threads are usually childs play. You should see The Dark Side threads. Dark Side is nmotorcycle riders using car tires on the rear because they last so much longer than bike tires. Those can get very testy once Safety/Dangerous riding enters the discussion. Frankly, oil? I've always heard my whole life it Absolutely Does
Not Matter IF you Religiously change the oil And filter every 3000 miles. Use whatever is cheapest. Bruce in Fl

 

I mostly agree with your statement, but our vehicles with the larger pan capacity, and the newer oils, I think every 5k/6m change is more than sufficient.
I would however use a high grade or OEM oil.

 

I do not remember if I had a coupon last year or not. Honda was also sending them to me for the CRV. Of course, it's hard to tell since Lexus doesn't break out the Labor charges.
I really don't worry about it. Last year the LC was about $75 more than basically the same CRV service at a local highly regarded indy shop.
$250 a year to keep Lexus all happy with my extended warranty is just fine with me.
Bruce in Fl

 

That's the recommened oil for Cummins Diesels, and what I use on my Cummins. On diesels, additives / detergents are very very important. Too much carbon build up if you idle it too long. I've always used Mobile 1 full synthetic on my gas cars, but apparantly Rotella is hard to beat when it comes to the detergents to keep your cylinder heads & other moving parts very clean. Since thier premium gas is one of the best, if not the best when it comes to keeping your engines clean, I am seriously considering giving Shell a try. I'm 'that' guy who will drive 2-3 more miles out of the way just to make sure I get to the next Shell station for my fill-ups. Never tried their oils in regular cars though. Largely due to the popularity of Mobile 1 and the joint marketing powers of Mercedes / Porsche w/ Mobile 1. I am easily controlled by their mind-tricks. . As matter of fact, I spent some time last week reseraching Shell's viscosity index / curves, and learned a lot more than I care to admit.

 

It looks like when you deduct the air filter and remote battery and then add labor and tax you are at around $150 for the oil change.
Wonder why they would use Mobil vs. Toyota OEM oil.

 

LOL! This reminds me of ONE PISSED OFF gentlman I met at the tail of the dragon. This guy rented a gold wing and rode it up to NC from Florida with his brother (retired vet). I was out there 'huggin' the corners and when done, had a chance to share a beer with him at the couryard of the hotel. This cheap motorcyle rental company fitted a car tire in the back! This guys was so scared to take the corners, he gave up and just hung out at the hotel, and spent the day calling the rental people. Anyhoo, your comment brought back the funny memories

OK back to the subject...

 

Whew. That sounds legally scary for the rental place.
Most of the Dark Siders do such because the vast majority of their miles will be non twisty roads. Ie; the Iron Butt Rally is 11 days of 1000 miles a day. Riding it on the Dark Side means you can do the rally without having to schedule a tire change in the middle. A substantial advantage when the rally is turning your brain to mush.
If you lived near Deals Gap pretty much any serious rider would say riding the Dark Side would be insane.
Bruce in Fl

 

That guy stayed at the hotel all weekend on the phone threatening the rental company. It was hilarious and sad at the same time. Anyhoo, Still debating the Mobil 1 vs. Rotella. I am really tempted to try Rotella on the LC after the break-in.

 

It is not any battle I will fight very hard on but I disagree with your more than double amount.
The shop/BS charge for the full service last year was only $8.58. The coupon says $64.95 for 5 qts. Even though they Can set the bulk dispenser for 9.1 quarts they told me they charge a full quart for any portion of that quart used. Soóo.
It should be $64.95 + 5 x $4.34 the oil charge from last year or $86.65. Even if they say Our oil price has Doubled since last year that would be $64.95 + 5 x $8.68 or $108.35. Even if you add the full $8.68 BS shop charge it should still be under $120.
But yes, as already evidenced by we're gonna charge you for .9 quart that Doesn't Come Out Of our bulk dispenser, they will certainly find some way to get what they want to get. Bruce in Fl
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Pennzoil, Valvoline, Quakerstate, Mobil all are rated by the oil industry as are many and have to follow all certifications to be approved/competitive. Read the fine print/certs. The additives may differ at most.

 

Apparantly fake mobile 1 & other major brands are running rampant in the marketplace everywhere. It is said that the bottles are almost indistinguishable from the real thing, nor will I be able to open the bottle and smell / touch to know the difference. Please do take care and be careful. If the premium synthetic oil's price is too good to be true, then it just may be fake. I used to hunt for bargains, but when it comes to car's maintenance items / parts, I don't take this chance anymore. Will stick to the usual trustworthy retailers such as Costco, Autozone, Napa, Advanced Autoparts, etc..., I'm sure Walmart & Target would be ok too if they have the product you're looking for.

https://www.mobil.com/en/sap/our-pro...ti-counterfeit

 

pure, unadulterated wisdom, BruceinFla !
and worthy of restating; change the oil regularly and this beautiful low rumbling V8 is gonna be purring for a long time.
thanks fo reminding us !
mine's done at 3500 intervals.

 

Finally got around to doing the oil change today. Did 3 cars already (718 Spyder, F80 M3, 22 MDX Type S / Adv.). 718 Spyder was a pain in the A$$. LC also looks to be a breeze. Currently drainng the LC. No special tools needed.

1. 10mm socket for the bolts to access both the drain plug & oil filter
2. 14mm socket for the drain plug
3. Large zip loc bag to aid in removal of the oil filter (Wrap the oil filter in a 1 gallon or 2.5 gallon bag. I used 2.5 gallon bag)

This is a 650 mile (approx 1000 KM) break in oil change. Will replace it with Toyota Dino oil again.






Will let this drain for an hour. Once i get to the filter area, i’ll post some more photos.

Still draining, but went ahead and did the filters. Used 2.5 gallon ziploc bag. one gallon bag should suffice.



no need for breaker bar in my case, just used a oil wrench w/ simple ratchet. break it open, and once open, wrap the filter with the ziplock bag and slowly turn the filter housing, and when it begins to drip into the bag, secure the bag and open some more. let it all drain into the bag, and have some paper tower ready to go. once the filter oil drains into the bag, quickly remove the filter & bag, and rapidly cover the area with paper towel. i did this using my spidy-sense and not a single drop 😎

Here is a photo of how much oil was in there. without the bag, it would’ve been very, very messy.

Now for the filter inspection. found metal particles and flakes / shaving in almost all the filter fin channels. This is why we do break-in oil change at 1000KM. this may not hurt the engine, but for those who are particular about these things, it gives us more peace of mind. i’m sure it’s perfectly fine to follow OEM’s recommendations, but i do this because it makes me feel better.

Please: No debate about the merits of break-in oil changes. I do me, and you do you. cool? 😊


Here’s couple of photos of the filter. you can clearly see the metal flakes and particles.



Finally, thoroughly clean the filter housing on the car and the one that holds the filter. Change the o ring, oubricate the o ring, insert the new filter, and screw it back on.

If you are worried about the toque specs, and if you are hand-tightening this (no power tools), then you don’t need to worry about this. as you tighten the housing, it’s very difficult to over tighten it. it will hit a wall as you screw tighten it. unlikely for you to over tighten. just tighten it u til you can’t anymore. very simple.


Once the oil drains, clean the area (remove the old crush washer likely still stuck to the oil pan. Place the new blue crush washer (both sides are blue. metal side faces to bolt, and the thicker felt side faces the oil pan & will crush onto the oil pan as you tighten it. Not sure what the torque specs are for this one, but i’m just going to tighten it snug without over-tighten it. After the everthing is installed and snug-tight, clean the whole area with some rag or paper towerl.

Once done fill the oil. That’s it. if you are doing this, i hope this was helpful. good luck!

 

Looks like you need a filter wrench to remove that filter housing. Did you buy the OEM toyota one? If aftermarket, it'd be great to post which one exactly. And do you know what are the threads on the drain plug? I have a GoldPlug magnetic drain plug that I never used for my ex-2015 RC-F, with the same 5.0L V8. I assume it's the same, but just curious. It's a rather small drain plug, compared to most others I've seen. And as far as emptying the oil filter, I'd do it without any bags, but I'd just use ramps, so little chance to make a mess, like if the car was 6' in the air. Ha ha. But I'd much rather have your lift, of course. Ha ha. Thank you for the pics. And yes, it's MUCH better to do an early oil change on a new car. You're one of us. Ha ha.

 

yes came in separate warranty booklet.

got the oil changed, all good!