asong1

This is the one I bought. It's forged. I liked this one better becuase it has the specific 'slots' which Lexus & Toyota has, and also compatible with other vehicles, including self-conained filters cans. Toyota / Lexus is the outer flute, and other self contained filters (Honda / Acura & others) are the inner flutes.


Regarding he zip-loc bag. I learned on this from the Porsche side of things where things are very tight. Applied it here with good results. I do not know what the thread size is, but when you do your first DIY, I'm sure you can measure it, or just take it to the hardwre store while the oil is draining, and ask someone there to measure it for you.

Thanks for the compliment on the lift. I needed a lift that can handle all my vehicles. My truck weighs 11,000 pounds+. My lift is 14,000 pound unit. There are many cheapers ones out there such as Bendpack & others. Before I bought the lifts, I visited several delaerships and surveyed which lifts they were using, and most of them were Rotary. Safety & reliability was a big concern. This unit has a backup AGM batteries (2x) so that you can safely bring the car down during a power outage if needed. Plus the dealers gave me the contact info for the local company that maintains them periodically, and was able to work out a good deal for them to come by from time to time and inspect / maintain them, so it was the best choice for me. I love it.

I have another unit coming in 2 weeks (takng delivery of another car May - July timeframe). Rotary also has a 'enthusiest' series which a slightly cheaper w/ lower capacity. This lift only provides 9,000 lbs load limit, but will lift higher than my current one so that I can park a SUV under it. My current one, it's not possible. Taller vehicles has to be on top (if you have enough ceiling clearance. Mine is 26ft ceiling on both garages). And also, this 9,000 lbs unit can be installed permenantly, or using caster wheels so you can easily move it from garage to garage, or bay to bay. I chose the casters for the next one.

Living the dream!

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

Yes it's the same thread measurement - M12X1.25. I use this one:



along with this crush washer:

JCtx

That one sounds awesome. Most garage slabs have post-tension nowadays (including mine), and you're not supposed to drill them. So casters sound great. My previous 4-car garage had 12' ceilings, but current one is only 9', so no stacking there, unfortunately. With 26' could stack them 3 high. Ha ha. Will research that lift. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for your input, but if the RC-F drain plug is the same as the LC, then it must be M12x1.25, not 1.5. This is the one I have: https://goldplug.com/shop/ap03/ . So which one is it?

fodalo

Nice work asong, same here I just didnt post my happenings and you did for everyones benefit, good job. Like the 1 gallon zip lock. I do that type of thing on my Searay Sundancer when changing out the filters.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

Boy is my face . I made a BIG mistake and didn't check my work You are right I have corrected my post

fodalo

Hey Sick, your first post oversight in how many years posting? If this is all that goes wrong today, You had a great day!! Be well my friend and keep posting in the free world as Neil Young says, LOL!!!!

asong1

It's just how I am. My spamming days here are almost over. When I have a new vehicle, or something that has communtity presence, I ask lots of questions, and do my best to contribute while I learn and set up my vehicle. My LC setup is almost done!

JCtx

It was a minor oversight, not a big mistake, so no worries. The good news is among all of us, we all eventually get things right. Ha ha.

Hey, I'm the same way. He he. So once I buy it, and set it up, I'll leave you guys alone.

asong1

Was watching a Japanese channel regarding the oil change procedure for the LFA. This is incredible! I never knew this. Due to the dry-sump setup, the oil has to be drained in 'several' different places. I think I counted close to 10 different places where you have to drain all of them one by one. Plus, for the 1 oil tank drainage area, Lexus's stadard practice is to drain the oil all the way, close the plug, fill the oil, then let that flow down and settle. Then re-drain all the bolts again. Basically doing a flush / rinse. Then you have to change out 2 oil filters. This is absolutely crazy. I never knew this.

AutoCrazy

asong1, thank you for the oil change description and photos! 👍

asong1

My pleasure. The oil change itself is a breeze. Anyone could have done this wthout my photos.

My hope is for people to see the photo of the filter with the metal shavings & particles in it after only 1000KM (imagne that in your oil floating around everywhere. I wanted to stress the importantce of doing a 'break-in' oil change on any cars. Many nay-sayers love to say that modern engines don't need this. Whether these particles damage the engine or not is besides the point. Whether we need to remove this early on or not is also besides the point. Many car companies reommends first oil change anywhere between 5K to 10K miles. This is a major marketing benfit for them. Less maintenance for the consumers. On the other hand, many premium brands specifically tells you to perform the break-in oil change between 1000 to 3000KM, and until this is done do not rev beyond 4k RPMs. After the break-in, then you can red-line it (ie. Porsche. They encourage it after the break-in oil change). It makes perfect sense. Just look at that evidence on the filter (btw, the photo doesn't show everything. There are lot more metal shavings and particles) Some may say that this is to make sure that the piston rings are properly seated, before revving up, but if that was their only purpose, then there is no need to change the oil at 1000 - 3000KM.

In high performance vehicles, these break-in oil changes are mandatory or they'll potentially void your warranty. I seriously doubt that their cylinder walls are not as precision engineered as the ones who recommend 10K miles (16,000KM) for the first oil change. It's probably the other way around.

IMO, "drive it like you stole it" method for break-in is also a bad idea. Just look at the filter. No need to send your oil to the lab. Just look at those metal shavings & particles. Why would you want to do this to your cylinder walls where metal shavings are still coming off from the new cylinder and circulating around your motor's other moving parts? And while your rings haven't properly seated? Measurable or not, but this has to increase the amount of 'blow-by'. I hope everyone who sees this take the extra step and make a small investment for the extra longevity and performance of their beatiful LCs or any other cars for that matter.

Just blowing off some steam here. Someone challeged me regarding the merits of the break-in oil change and said that the modern motors dont' need this. Then also challenged to me to produce evidence AND asked me if I have the data to prove it (i.e.: did I send the oil to the lab). Give me a break.. Look at the filter, and look at that BLACK oil I captured into the zip loc bag only after 600 miles and change (driving very mildly in accordance with the break-in procedure (not Lexus' procedure)). My procedure based on common sense and visual evidence + what high performance car companies recommend & enforce.

AutoCrazy

asong1, Agree completely with your points above.

And as you’ve mentioned previously, the use of conventional mineral oil/ “dino oil” is advantageous for engine break-in purposes.

Another “pet peeve” I have is the practice some owners employ of high rpm free-revving of their engines, particularly when the engine oil is cold. High/aggressive revving of an engine without load has been reported to lead to excessive engine wear including valve train and connecting rod issues, etc.

asong1

It's their car, their money. But the sad thing is, many do this on the disposal cars. So they don't care what conditions they return the leased cars back to the dealer. The the dealers 'certify' this car. And everyone knows the CPO inspection is inconsistent from dealer to deaelr + mechanic to mechanic. This is why I don't like to buy used cars. You will never know until you open to valve cover + run through expensive testing to confirm the compression, etc..,

asong1

Very interesting and controversial


Full video here (GT-R Takumi)

https://youtu.be/FlmTPH_5UmQ?si=caHvsL5Z8Pu6dhBl


I barely put 1K mile on my Porsche. I change the oil every year. Theoretically, this car should last forever. I’ll probably end up with the same mileage / year on the LC (may 2k miles / year).

Also interesting is the suggestion of using the cheapest engine oil (dino).

BruceinFla

The figure I've always heard about using cheap oil is 3000 miles. The 3000 is the minimum where the new oils detergent function actually works. But much more than 5000 and the quality of the oil starts to matter.
What I've heard anyway. Bruce in Fl.